What mods for 300hp and less than $1000
Apr 3, 2003, 11:27 AM
#16
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Originally posted by BLKEVO8
$1000 that is what the cat back alone will run.
$1000 that is what the cat back alone will run.
$1K for a catback? Where are you shopping? Unless you are getting some uber-nice titanium one from japan and haveing only blind virgin nuns make it, it should only be ~400-600..
Hell, after a little longer you will be able to get a full turbo back probably for ~600.
I picked up a 3" mandrel bent polished 304SS turbo back for $570 shipped to my house. This was for my old WRX.
-Zach
Apr 3, 2003, 11:43 AM
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Good point one could find a cheap catback the thing to consider for performance is weight. One of the other things to consider is you could add 20-30hp crank but if you drop 30-60 pounds of weight in effect create bigger more reliable gains. What’s the point to just add HP drop reliability and not change or gain weight to the car? And yes I was thinking of the JIC Ti, I have a different philosophy for my upgrade path he should hear all the different approaches.
Apr 3, 2003, 11:57 AM
#18
A turbo timer is not necessary. The Evo's turbo is water cooled. So long as you take it easy for the last few minutes of a drive, just shut the car off a few seconds afer you stop the car. You can always use the time to close the windows, etc.
The only time you have to worry about a hot turbo is when you have just finished going WOT, or if you just got off the highway (like a rest area). Then just let it idle for a minute or two.
Follow this advice and you can save some money and not have to hack into your poor Evo's ignition switch circuitry.
Also, it isn't hard to install parts yourself. 5 years ago when I bought my car, I knew zip about them. Two years ago, I built the engine that still sits in my Eclipse's engine bay. It is daily driven, drag raced, autocrossed. You can learn too. Why pay someone else to do it?
The only time you have to worry about a hot turbo is when you have just finished going WOT, or if you just got off the highway (like a rest area). Then just let it idle for a minute or two.
Follow this advice and you can save some money and not have to hack into your poor Evo's ignition switch circuitry.
Also, it isn't hard to install parts yourself. 5 years ago when I bought my car, I knew zip about them. Two years ago, I built the engine that still sits in my Eclipse's engine bay. It is daily driven, drag raced, autocrossed. You can learn too. Why pay someone else to do it?
Apr 3, 2003, 12:07 PM
#19
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I just ordered the full 3" stainless turbo back exhaust from Buschur Racing, including down pipe, high flow cat, and cat-back, for $900. About the best deal I have found so far... it aint titanium, but then again it didnt take a Platinum card to order it either.
Apr 3, 2003, 12:09 PM
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Well I heard different from the lead mechanic who trained to work on the Evo 8. He said it will be the best upgrade one could and it will save the bearings of the turbo in the long run. I think it’s worth $90 for peace of mind plus it’s programmable. So on the easy days turn it off on the hard driven days don’t need to wait around.
Apr 3, 2003, 12:11 PM
#22
I've had a TD05H-16G on my car for the past 60,000mi using my own restraint as a turbo timer. The turbo is still going strong. There is zero oil coking. Bearing play is not detectable.
The turbo is still going strong. There is zero oil coking. Bearing play is not detectable.
Apr 3, 2003, 02:40 PM
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Originally posted by BLKEVO8
Good point one could find a cheap catback the thing to consider for performance is weight. One of the other things to consider is you could add 20-30hp crank but if you drop 30-60 pounds of weight in effect create bigger more reliable gains. What’s the point to just add HP drop reliability and not change or gain weight to the car? And yes I was thinking of the JIC Ti, I have a different philosophy for my upgrade path he should hear all the different approaches.
Good point one could find a cheap catback the thing to consider for performance is weight. One of the other things to consider is you could add 20-30hp crank but if you drop 30-60 pounds of weight in effect create bigger more reliable gains. What’s the point to just add HP drop reliability and not change or gain weight to the car? And yes I was thinking of the JIC Ti, I have a different philosophy for my upgrade path he should hear all the different approaches.
So you have to drop 200-300 pounds to get 20-30 hp.
Dropping weight is more advantageous than adding power, because the reduced weight helps in braking and handling as well.
But good luck taking out 300 pounds of weight unless you are really serious about weight reduction...
Apr 3, 2003, 04:04 PM
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Well true but my philosophy is a compination of mods with weight reduction to get a good balance and still be very reliable daily driver. My evo is a daily so I need to keep it out of the shop as much as possible.
Apr 3, 2003, 05:51 PM
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Looks like Buschur racing will be a very promising source for mods......I guess the fact that he loves the evo so much is helping!!
New inlet pipe:
http://www.buschurracing.com/cgi-bin.....&&category=4
New exhaust:
http://www.buschurracing.com/cgi-bin.....&&category=4
More parts:
http://www.buschurracing.com/cgi-bin...VO&&category=4
New inlet pipe:
http://www.buschurracing.com/cgi-bin.....&&category=4
New exhaust:
http://www.buschurracing.com/cgi-bin.....&&category=4
More parts:
http://www.buschurracing.com/cgi-bin...VO&&category=4
Apr 3, 2003, 08:54 PM
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I think it is actually 12 lbs per hp stock.
3250/271 = 12.00 lbs per hp
3000/271 = 11.07 lbs per hp
3000/300 = 10.00 lbs per hp (i didn't actually need my shoes off for this one).
Wonder what those extra bumper reinforcements weigh.
3250/271 = 12.00 lbs per hp
3000/271 = 11.07 lbs per hp
3000/300 = 10.00 lbs per hp (i didn't actually need my shoes off for this one).
Wonder what those extra bumper reinforcements weigh.
Originally posted by jedinite
Approximately 10 pounds of weight = 1 horsepower.
So you have to drop 200-300 pounds to get 20-30 hp.
Dropping weight is more advantageous than adding power, because the reduced weight helps in braking and handling as well.
But good luck taking out 300 pounds of weight unless you are really serious about weight reduction...
Approximately 10 pounds of weight = 1 horsepower.
So you have to drop 200-300 pounds to get 20-30 hp.
Dropping weight is more advantageous than adding power, because the reduced weight helps in braking and handling as well.
But good luck taking out 300 pounds of weight unless you are really serious about weight reduction...
Apr 3, 2003, 09:38 PM
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So the Buschur exhaust is going to save me about 30-40 pounds, the Odyssey dry cell battery is going to take about 30 #s off the nose, the spare tire it out, along with the jack, maybe 30 pounds total there...
Thats about 100 pounds total... heck, I may not need that boost controller if I can find another couple things to yank out...
Thats about 100 pounds total... heck, I may not need that boost controller if I can find another couple things to yank out...
Apr 3, 2003, 10:30 PM
#30
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Originally posted by BLKEVO8
Well I heard different from the lead mechanic who trained to work on the Evo 8. He said it will be the best upgrade one could and it will save the bearings of the turbo in the long run. I think it’s worth $90 for peace of mind plus it’s programmable. So on the easy days turn it off on the hard driven days don’t need to wait around.
Well I heard different from the lead mechanic who trained to work on the Evo 8. He said it will be the best upgrade one could and it will save the bearings of the turbo in the long run. I think it’s worth $90 for peace of mind plus it’s programmable. So on the easy days turn it off on the hard driven days don’t need to wait around.
, hence parts that aren't there ain't gonna wear. 