What mods for 300hp and less than $1000
Apr 3, 2003, 08:34 AM
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What mods for 300hp and less than $1000
I was just curious what mods would push the EVO to 300hp and cost less than a grand..if possible. I was looking at the RMR downpipe and the intake kit..how much HP that gonna bring? This is the fastest car I have ever owned...but for some reason, I HAVE to go faster!!
Apr 3, 2003, 08:39 AM
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id say intake exhaust boost controller and afc that might be a little more then a grand though but that should definetly get you over 300 figure exhaust ona turbo car adds like 15 - 25 hp intake another like 5 - 10 rais boost like 2 psi that 17-22 hp and afc to squeeze out like 3- 7 hp so like 40- 60 hp id say but then again i could be wrong
Apr 3, 2003, 09:14 AM
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Originally posted by WestSideBilly
Are you talking 300 crank hp (+29) or 300 wheel hp (+100 give or take)?
Edit - oops, backwards.
Are you talking 300 crank hp (+29) or 300 wheel hp (+100 give or take)?
Edit - oops, backwards.
Apr 3, 2003, 09:17 AM
#6
Originally posted by zyounker
$50 test pipe to remove cat.
~$250 used S-AFC
$20 MBC
That will do ~300WHP..
$50 test pipe to remove cat.
~$250 used S-AFC
$20 MBC
That will do ~300WHP..
Still under $1000. The boost gauge should be installed first. Upgraded BOV should definitely be installed next. Then the filter. Then the boost controller. Then the test pipe. Then the AFC.
Anything but the boost gauge and BOV are optional. If you leave that leaky plastic POS BOV on your intercooler pipe, all you are doing is making your turbo spin faster than it should (and creating more heat) to produce boost.
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Apr 3, 2003, 09:19 AM
#8
Originally posted by Jonasan50
Also, where can you find a "used" s-afc anyways for that $$.. Cause I'll take it if so...
Also, where can you find a "used" s-afc anyways for that $$.. Cause I'll take it if so...
Apr 3, 2003, 09:19 AM
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Originally posted by ShapeGSX
We have a winner! But I'd add a boost gauge ($40), perhaps a K&N FIPK or similar open element air filter ($100), and a 1G DSM blow off valve ($50 used).
Still under $1000. The boost gauge should be installed first. Upgraded BOV should definitely be installed next. Then the filter. Then the boost controller. Then the test pipe. Then the AFC.
Anything but the boost gauge and BOV are optional. If you leave that leaky plastic POS BOV on your intercooler pipe, all you are doing is making your turbo spin faster than it should (and creating more heat) to produce boost.
We have a winner! But I'd add a boost gauge ($40), perhaps a K&N FIPK or similar open element air filter ($100), and a 1G DSM blow off valve ($50 used).
Still under $1000. The boost gauge should be installed first. Upgraded BOV should definitely be installed next. Then the filter. Then the boost controller. Then the test pipe. Then the AFC.
Anything but the boost gauge and BOV are optional. If you leave that leaky plastic POS BOV on your intercooler pipe, all you are doing is making your turbo spin faster than it should (and creating more heat) to produce boost.
Yeah, i wasn't thinking of "everything" but yes a boost gauge should not be forgotten.. i would also pick up an EGT gauge too..
And if you cant get a 1st gen BOV, the Greddy Type-S is pretty cheap and you can use the kit for the 2nd gen DSM..
-Zach
Apr 3, 2003, 10:19 AM
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Originally posted by WestSideBilly
Don't forget the A/F gauge - probably more important than either an EGT or Boost gauge.
Don't forget the A/F gauge - probably more important than either an EGT or Boost gauge.
A narrow band O2 sensor hooked to an A/F Gauge is almost completely worthless.. IMO..
If you want accurate info get a wide band for A/F readings..
Narrow Band O2 sensors are only efficient near stoeich(sp?) Which would blow up the car.
-Zach
Apr 3, 2003, 10:31 AM
#12
If you really want to tune, get a datalogger like www.pocketlogger.com and watch your timing advance. It will also let you datalog O2 voltage, if you want to tune by that (stupid).
And I haven't tuned by EGT in quite a long time. It is simply too dangerous to have a type-K thermocouple sitting in the exhaust stream before the turbo. They have the habit of breaking off and chewing your exhaust wheel to bits. And they are useless when you put them after the turbo because the turbine cools down the exhaust too much when it changes the thermal energy to kinetic energy. Then the EGT goes up once the wastegate opens. There is no point to that.
A boost gauge is essential above ALL OTHER GAUGES, however. You can't go adjusting your boost with a manual boost controller without one. And all of these mods to the intake and exhaust path WILL change the boost curve in some way.
And I haven't tuned by EGT in quite a long time. It is simply too dangerous to have a type-K thermocouple sitting in the exhaust stream before the turbo. They have the habit of breaking off and chewing your exhaust wheel to bits. And they are useless when you put them after the turbo because the turbine cools down the exhaust too much when it changes the thermal energy to kinetic energy. Then the EGT goes up once the wastegate opens. There is no point to that.
A boost gauge is essential above ALL OTHER GAUGES, however. You can't go adjusting your boost with a manual boost controller without one. And all of these mods to the intake and exhaust path WILL change the boost curve in some way.
Apr 3, 2003, 11:22 AM
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Originally posted by zyounker
A narrow band O2 sensor hooked to an A/F Gauge is almost completely worthless.. IMO..
If you want accurate info get a wide band for A/F readings..
Narrow Band O2 sensors are only efficient near stoeich(sp?) Which would blow up the car.
-Zach
A narrow band O2 sensor hooked to an A/F Gauge is almost completely worthless.. IMO..
If you want accurate info get a wide band for A/F readings..
Narrow Band O2 sensors are only efficient near stoeich(sp?) Which would blow up the car.
-Zach
Apr 3, 2003, 11:23 AM
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That seems to be the problem as soon as you start a mod path changing boost etc... it opens a can of worms and also voids your warranty I asked the head mechanic for the evo. Ask yourself this. 1st is this a daily driver? 2nd you better face reality and realise it will not stop at a thousand! and you are also opening yourself up to more maintenance. If you want a nice gain with all the reliability get a ralliart air filter, a full cat back JIC bullet for example and before anything else get a TURBO TIMER! it is the first thing you should be buying. Don't forget unless you are installing all this stuff factor in labor it will add up quick at $40-$60 an hour. 300hp can not be limited to $1000 that is what the cat back alone will run.
Apr 3, 2003, 11:25 AM
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Re: What mods for 300hp and less than $1000
Originally posted by Daveyd
I was just curious what mods would push the EVO to 300hp and cost less than a grand..if possible.
I was just curious what mods would push the EVO to 300hp and cost less than a grand..if possible.
Originally posted by Daveyd
I was looking at the RMR downpipe and the intake kit..how much HP that gonna bring?
I was looking at the RMR downpipe and the intake kit..how much HP that gonna bring?
Originally posted by Daveyd
This is the fastest car I have ever owned...but for some reason, I HAVE to go faster!!
This is the fastest car I have ever owned...but for some reason, I HAVE to go faster!!
