Floor Jack Slipped... Big Bump in Floor Now
#46
If you read my earlier post and get the jack blocks $9.00 your car will never slip.Also your under carriage will look like new.And yes you should use the factory side lift points.If your car is lowered its a pain to use ramps and you cant rotate your tires.
#47
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Originally Posted by 3deep
If you read my earlier post and get the jack blocks $9.00 your car will never slip.Also your under carriage will look like new.And yes you should use the factory side lift points.If your car is lowered its a pain to use ramps and you cant rotate your tires.
#48
HERE ARE SOME LINKS.Side lift jack pads
http://www.protechproducts.net/jackpads.htm
http://www.protechproducts.net/jackpads.htm
Last edited by 3deep; Apr 6, 2006 at 01:23 PM.
#49
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ahhhhhhh.....this is how I felt after I sold my 240... I did the same thing....I just pounded it back into place with My FOOT.....it hurt..but My EVO is worth it.... Its still not that perfect..but better than it was....
#50
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Originally Posted by Evo_Kid
+1
ALWAYS use the front and rear jacking points when useing a floor jack.
The side spots are ONLY for the factory jack.
ALWAYS use the front and rear jacking points when useing a floor jack.
The side spots are ONLY for the factory jack.
#53
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Where do you get these cut sheets from Mitsu? Service manual? If so, where can I get a 2005 Evo Service manual. All I have ever seen is 2004...
And yes, take a quick pic of your lift point, my curiousity is peaked while Im at work.
And yes, take a quick pic of your lift point, my curiousity is peaked while Im at work.
#54
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Originally Posted by Evo_Kid
Here is a diagram of the jacking points.
The front one is covered by the under tray, so I use a bump on the support beam located in the red circle. If anyone needs me to take a pic, I'll do that.
The front one is covered by the under tray, so I use a bump on the support beam located in the red circle. If anyone needs me to take a pic, I'll do that.
#56
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Thanks for the info about the jack points. I had been successful on the sides of the car so many times that I never thought much of it not being the BEST choice. Just to be clear, the accident wasnt because of the jack or where I jacked it, but mainly because of the use of the wooden block that gave it up. The floor jack does not have a flat rubber area or anything else, just like a three-pronged type of claw at the end.. you know that I mean.
Thanks again... Im glad we got all this information out here so maybe someone else either wont have this happen or will at least have some insight into how to fix it. That was my main point for this thread anyway, to help future searching.
Thanks again... Im glad we got all this information out here so maybe someone else either wont have this happen or will at least have some insight into how to fix it. That was my main point for this thread anyway, to help future searching.
#57
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Originally Posted by saw22
Have you fixed it yet? I wish mine was in any other floor board but the driver's I know its something I would get used to, but anyone else that drove it would be like "WTF?". Big red flag on trade-in day too, of course.
#58
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Originally Posted by saw22
Im drawing a blank this morning with terminology for some reason. You know the metal bar that runs from front to back under each side of the car (about a foot under the car or so).
I think its called the subframe.
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