I read many posts about removing the grommet/restrictor pill of the boost solenoid/boost line.

The Evo 6 is a plastic restrictor pill on the boost solenoid
The USA Evo 8 is a restrictor pill inside the boost line.

I checked my Evo 7 and there is not a restriccor pill like the E6 and it seems that there is not a restrictor pill inside the boost line.

Where is located in the Evo 7? ? ?

 

no idea....i've read that on this forum as well.
but never bothered to check though

 

I checked my boost solenoid and there is a metallic pill inside the plastic pipe.

The only way is to drill that thing...

 

http://coatings.fotoblog.uol.com.br/...417135718.html

Is the USA Evo 8 boost control solenoid valve the same as above?

 

basically looks something like that. yours is a bit dirty so i can't fully tell. i don't think we have a pill in the nipple though.

that said why do you wanna remove it? the solenoid won't know how to control boost if you remove it... you'll get erratic boost control. and also it keeps your wastegate shut longer. i would not suggest putting more in or removing the one you have.

if you really must change the method of boost control then change it... but stock is made to be used with its own stuff in its own way.

 

For the Evo 7:

The pill is inside the rubber tube from Turbo Outlet to the "TEE" piece.
Its a brass piece, 5mm long, 5mm Diameter, 1.3mm hole.
Do NOT remove it with Bleed style Boost controls.

The4 second one is the Metal insert in the solenoid input port.
You will get it out with a small drill or by cutting 2mm of the plastic tube, the pull it out.

 

I looked again inside the rubber hose that goes from the TEE to the boost solenoid valve, there is no restrictor pill like the USA Evo 8.

I removed the small metallic pill inside the tube in the boost solenoid valve. I got a small paper clip made a small curve in the end, put inside the hole with the metallic pill and pulled it out. Pics coming...

Took my car for a ride some minutes ago, 14 degrees centigrade outside.
My car is reving faster, it feels faster in all rpm band.
No signal of issues
No fuel cut
smooth operation
More agressive on off throttle response

Road test coming...

 

G-tech meter test:

10whp more
20lbs TQ more

remember that the g-tech meter reads lower than a dyno...

 

if u have it tuned it might be over boosting now and just not set off an alarm....do u have a boost gauge to read what level you are at?

 

No boost gauge yet.

I read that the max peak boost is from 1.35 to 1.45bar after the pill removed and 1.2bar in high rpms.

My car has a Ralliart ECU that was made to handle 1.5bar; I presume I will not have any problems...

 

From lancerregister.com:

I removed the grommet , then took the car out to test for fuel cuts
(i have a boost gauge fitted which was tested last month for accurucy) , took it easy at first then started giving it some stick and it shocked me big time the car is peaking at 1.4bar then holding around 1.2bar with no fuel cuts (outside temp when testing was 5 degrees) the difference is amazing, in 4th gear it is mindblowing and other gears almost as good feels like a new car.
Just thought i would share this with you all.
Any others had experience with this??



The grommet removal is an old trick that has been used on many Evo's for a long time. The only potential problem is that it may cause fuel cuts if the boost level and airflow levels rise above the preset limit in the ECU (which it probably will on a cold day). Fuel cuts are not good for the transmission and the engine due to the mechanical shock that they cause.

Having said all that, upping the boost level using a Dawes Device is a far better way of doing it than using the grommet removal because at least you have a certain level of control using the Dawes. You really need a boost gauge to set it up properly though.