Forget a Mini Battery Kit.
May 22, 2006, 10:28 AM
#16
One point of caution: it doesn't look like you've added a fuse anywhere. With those long runs of additional cable, it would be a good idea to put a high-amp breaker (especially on a street car) or fuse as close to the positive terminal of the battery as possible. If you don't, then you run the risk of any accidental break in the insulation causing the battery to explode (especially with 1 gauge cable).
Just some food for thought. Good luck with your project.
Just some food for thought. Good luck with your project.
May 22, 2006, 10:35 AM
#17
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Originally Posted by alex4nder
One point of caution: it doesn't look like you've added a fuse anywhere. With those long runs of additional cable, it would be a good idea to put a high-amp breaker (especially on a street car) or fuse as close to the positive terminal of the battery as possible. If you don't, then you run the risk of any accidental break in the insulation causing the battery to explode (especially with 1 gauge cable).
Just some food for thought. Good luck with your project.
Just some food for thought. Good luck with your project.
May 22, 2006, 05:12 PM
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I've never looked at the included parts on a mini battery kit but I've been running the Hawker Odyssey gels in my RX7 for quite some time. The battery is about $80 and I believe it's what most people use in their kits. So anyone looking for a DIY source for these batteries, try http://www.batterystore.com/Hawker/HawkerMain.htm where they run about $85 with the proper terminals and a metal jacket. FYI.
May 22, 2006, 09:04 PM
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The trunk is part of the passenger compartment, so it is advised to put the battery in a sealed container vented to the outside of the car. I have installed batteries in the trunk before, as long as the cable is big enough (low voltage loss) you won't have a problem, in fact, without the underhood heat, they last longer.
May 22, 2006, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Warrtalon
Please don't do this if you plan on drag racing ever, because this will disqualify you from even doing test'n'tune unless you have a cutoff switch sticking out of your trunk, and I doubt anyone wants to do that on their regular daily driver. That sort of thing is usually only seen on all-out race cars.
Additionally, you'd need to make sure this will pass tech in SCCA/NASA/BMWCCA depending on what you run, if anything.
For people who never race, I see no downside.
Additionally, you'd need to make sure this will pass tech in SCCA/NASA/BMWCCA depending on what you run, if anything.
For people who never race, I see no downside.
You won't be able to AutoX with that set up. Not to be rude but honestly that set up is pretty ugly and seems pretty dangerous.
May 22, 2006, 09:41 PM
#25
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I did the same thing several months ago, and amazingly, haven't blown up yet! (F the haters)
I put the battery in the back-passenger corner and inside a plastic battery box. The plastic box will contain any spill that might occur without corroding, (unlike metal batt. boxes) and the position is behind the rear axle, which actually reduces the weight on the front end. (like pushing down on the rear bumper of the car...any weight placed behind the rear axle lifts the front) I also installed a big 60 amp fuse...they sell them at Wal-Mart near the car stereo equipment for amp. installs. If that positive cable frays and touches any metal without a fuse, it will weld and short violently, most likely causing a fire.
I did it mostly because I wanted to run the Buschur hard piping, and couldn't run a mini-battery. I sit on the side of the road all day taking photos and listening to the radio. I'd kill a mini-batt in a couple of hours.
I put the battery in the back-passenger corner and inside a plastic battery box. The plastic box will contain any spill that might occur without corroding, (unlike metal batt. boxes) and the position is behind the rear axle, which actually reduces the weight on the front end. (like pushing down on the rear bumper of the car...any weight placed behind the rear axle lifts the front) I also installed a big 60 amp fuse...they sell them at Wal-Mart near the car stereo equipment for amp. installs. If that positive cable frays and touches any metal without a fuse, it will weld and short violently, most likely causing a fire.
I did it mostly because I wanted to run the Buschur hard piping, and couldn't run a mini-battery. I sit on the side of the road all day taking photos and listening to the radio. I'd kill a mini-batt in a couple of hours.
May 22, 2006, 09:54 PM
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^^^ just so you know, i believe the factory main fuse at the fusebox is 100amp.
trying to start the car on a cold morning might pop the 60. starters use a lot of current.
trying to start the car on a cold morning might pop the 60. starters use a lot of current.
May 22, 2006, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by smack_evo
^^^ just so you know, i believe the factory main fuse at the fusebox is 100amp.
trying to start the car on a cold morning might pop the 60. starters use a lot of current.
trying to start the car on a cold morning might pop the 60. starters use a lot of current.
May 23, 2006, 06:45 PM
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I have an Optima Red-Top in the rear driver's side of the trunk and it's a perfect fit.
As for drag racing, you MIGHT be right if the people at the strip actually look in your car. Not every strip requires a safety inspection. Here in Fayetteville you sign a waiver, but no inspections have ever been done on test-n-tune days.
As for drag racing, you MIGHT be right if the people at the strip actually look in your car. Not every strip requires a safety inspection. Here in Fayetteville you sign a waiver, but no inspections have ever been done on test-n-tune days.