REALLY rough shifts into 2ND. DEALER BLEW ME OFF!
#1
REALLY rough shifts into 2ND. DEALER BLEW ME OFF!
i have a IX MR with 10,600 miles on it
basically, i went to the dealership to have them take a look at the car because sometimes it feels rough going into second gear at ANY RPM and sometimes it almost feels like a grind, even at low RPMS.
other times it shifts perfectly into 2nd at ANY rpm, its quite random
its normally somewhat notchy though.
when i brought it to the dealership they test drove it, WITHOUT using the clutch and told me that they couldnt get it to grind, they said it went into all gears fine. They also said my clutch felt liked it released high, which is bull****, because it feels perfect.
and they wouldnt do **** for me. They wasted my time and drove the car with no clutch .
so im wondering, if anyone knows why my 2nd gear could feel extra notchy and almost feel like a grind at times at low and high rpms alike. MOSTLY when car is cold.
.mm
basically, i went to the dealership to have them take a look at the car because sometimes it feels rough going into second gear at ANY RPM and sometimes it almost feels like a grind, even at low RPMS.
other times it shifts perfectly into 2nd at ANY rpm, its quite random
its normally somewhat notchy though.
when i brought it to the dealership they test drove it, WITHOUT using the clutch and told me that they couldnt get it to grind, they said it went into all gears fine. They also said my clutch felt liked it released high, which is bull****, because it feels perfect.
and they wouldnt do **** for me. They wasted my time and drove the car with no clutch .
so im wondering, if anyone knows why my 2nd gear could feel extra notchy and almost feel like a grind at times at low and high rpms alike. MOSTLY when car is cold.
.mm
#2
i think its normal ive been having issues as well but in your case when its cold it feels notchy cause the oils in the tranny are old you must wait for them to be hot also i think evo trannys are notchy in general
#4
You're lucky, they blew you off, did you get a kiss too?
When I took mine in, they fried my clutch and said they couldn't re-create the complaint. So I guess I got a dry one in the bung.
When I took mine in, they fried my clutch and said they couldn't re-create the complaint. So I guess I got a dry one in the bung.
#6
I've seen similar issues with my MR, it shifts pretty rough when it's cold but gets better when it warms up. 2nd and 3rd are pretty bad on a cold morning. My local dealer also told me this is normal. I've started double-clutching until the gear oil warms up.
Trending Topics
#8
Originally Posted by Dodzilla
I've seen similar issues with my MR, it shifts pretty rough when it's cold but gets better when it warms up. 2nd and 3rd are pretty bad on a cold morning. My local dealer also told me this is normal. I've started double-clutching until the gear oil warms up.
#12
Originally Posted by AlwaysinBoost
how did they drive your car w/o using the clutch?
Yeah, what do you mean when you say that they drove it without using the clutch? If they didn't use the clutch, then they wouldn't be able to get it out of neutral. Without clutch use it would grind like hell.
#13
mine feels the exact same way. notchy going to 2nd but every other gear is fine. driving the car cold is worst. sometimes when i'm going real slow and shifting from 2nd to neutral and with my foot all the way down on the clutch, my gear grinds a bit. i changed the fluid to the penzoil synchromesh and it fixed the notchyness for awhile. i then changed to the BG fluid and the grinding is gone but the notchy feel is still there but not as bad. i didn't bother to go to the dealer because i just want to avoid the lame exuse they were going to give me and i'm a nice guy so i didn't want to kill anyone.
i'm opting to go for a short shifter and bushings all around, inside and outside. hopefully that would fix something.
i'm opting to go for a short shifter and bushings all around, inside and outside. hopefully that would fix something.
#14
Seems the Mits manual in their modern turbo's is just like the manual from back in 1990 with the Eclipse. Those trannies had the same shift problem when cold. But, a lot of other brand cars do as well, especially if the trans fluid is not synthetic.
Back then Mits had a service bulletin to put a "friction modifier" in the trans fluid to help smooth the shifts. It was pretty much some teflon type stuff, which helped a little.
The best fix was to go with Redline MTL synthetic. That stuff worked magic. The shifts were like moving through butter and not thick molasses even when it was winter time cold.
Of course back then the synchros were made of paper and I think they are now metal, which means they are lasting longer.
Change your trans fluid to something high quality synthetic.
The synth fluid with retain viscosity when cold and when very hot.
It will also last longer by virtue of it's ability to cope with the heat and stresses of sports car where there is a lof of shifting going on.
Also, I thought/think the Evo does have synthetic trans fluid, but that may just be an assumption on my part. And, if they say to replace it around 30k, then I would think its not synthetic but regular dino fluid.
Back then Mits had a service bulletin to put a "friction modifier" in the trans fluid to help smooth the shifts. It was pretty much some teflon type stuff, which helped a little.
The best fix was to go with Redline MTL synthetic. That stuff worked magic. The shifts were like moving through butter and not thick molasses even when it was winter time cold.
Of course back then the synchros were made of paper and I think they are now metal, which means they are lasting longer.
Change your trans fluid to something high quality synthetic.
The synth fluid with retain viscosity when cold and when very hot.
It will also last longer by virtue of it's ability to cope with the heat and stresses of sports car where there is a lof of shifting going on.
Also, I thought/think the Evo does have synthetic trans fluid, but that may just be an assumption on my part. And, if they say to replace it around 30k, then I would think its not synthetic but regular dino fluid.
Last edited by GR-VIII; May 25, 2006 at 10:26 AM.