I'm installing my wideband and need to find a location to tap into for power. I have the unit grounded to the frame but I'm not sure where to tap to power the unit. I've heard that cigarette lighters commonly have bad grounds and was wondering where I could solder to for power. Anybody else with a wideband have any insight?

Note: I'm posting in the Evo boards rather than the lancer section due to the fact that a lot more Evo guys are tuning and monitoring their critical engine components.

 

what does the cig lighter having a bad ground have anything to do with you? You're already grounded elsewhere................ But seriously if ur asking this question maybe you shouldnt be installing your own stuff.

 

wth!! get a life man

 

I tapped into my dimmer switch for my boost and A/F guages.

 

tap into ignition on only which on the 9s gauge set they are red. thTs where I hooked up my aem wideband and it works perfectly.

 

I've used fuse blocks to splice into at the main fuse box under the steering wheel as well. That was only for an A/F gauge with no wideband

I have a zeitronic zt-2 set up sitting in the garage that I want to install. I drive a RalliArt and am wondering where in the exhaust did you get your bung welded in?

 

Anywhere before the cat is a good place.

 

I put my engine in my car myself. I'm not as good with electronics, thankfully there's a message board filled with thousands of other people who have their own knowledge of cars and can help. If I never tried and failed, I never would have learned how to do stuff right.

 

i connected my AEM widebands power through an add-a-circuit using a spare slot in the interior fuse block.

 

I say try the switched power on the ECU harness. I dont know if they offer an harness for the Lancer ECU like the EVO one or not but that makes it very simple.

As far as the sensor, if you are running a cat have the bung welded before the cat. There is a pair of plugs right under the pass floor that is perfect for rinning the Zeitronix cabling.

I am doing a write up this week, hope this helps.

 

ok for POWER:

if you only have 1-2 gauges, its a good idea to use the dimmer switch for power. it will allow not only power when the car is on, but control the light of the gauge (if it has one) to turn on/off with your headlights.

if you have more than 2 gauges, i would suggest creating your own relay. use the dimmer wire as a switch to turn on the lights of your gauges, at the same time, you can run a direct power wire from your fuse box to the relay so your not drawing power directly from your dimmer wire. (I.E. having 3+ gauges getting power from your dimmer wire directly, might eventually short it). its easy, all your power is directly available at from the fuse box. (thicker wires, test for accessory wires)

 

What about replacing the oem narrow band. will it work wired up to the stock ecu, or is it easier and less of a hassle to get the bung welded in? TIA

 

May be this is so obvious that I am just missing your point, but the stock O2 sensor cannot be replaced with a wide band (at least from what I know)

The narrow band 02 sensor is used by the ECU to regulate it's underlyiing routines.

The wide band is for tuning/monitoring purposes.

Where and how would you monitor the Widebands data, even if the ECU could understand the data readings, which it is not set up to. (of course, someone please correct me if this is wrong).

as far as placement of the sensor goes:

There are recommended distances for the proper placement of the WB sensor. I think it is typically no closer that 18 inches to the block exhaust outlet, but as it was mentioned, before the first (and in our case only) Cat. (You can place it too far down stream, but we don't have that issue, because of where our Cats are)

Vishnu and many others place it just before the CAT and it seems to work quite well.
Depending on your sensor, as mentioned before, you can run the cable right up through the hole that is right above that location in the "driveline tunnel". Very clean and safe, just be sure it doesn't bind, and be sure to protect the cable from an sharp edges if you have to bore the hole to a little larger diameter to make anything fit (that all depends on your set up)

Good Luck

 

Depends on the wideband. Some wideband o2 sensors have a 0-5v and 0-1v output. I believe the 0-1v output is what the stock ECU would need. It is less of a hassle to have the bung welded in. Most widebands come with the bung and any muffler shop could take care of it for you for pretty cheap.

 

i think i read on my aem wideband .. no closer then 3 ft. from manifold. i welded a bung into my test pipe. and the stock o2 is farther down. just go to a muffler shop and have them weld the bung in for like 20 to 40$ who knows the price hehe call midas or meineke