Did the 30k maintenance this weekend: lessons learned
#16
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Originally Posted by Schuyler
Hence why I want the dealer to do the labor.
#18
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Originally Posted by Schuyler
I've got 29,500 on the clock - so I'm due for the same. I was going to buy all the fluids and let the dealer do the change for an hour or two of labor - or maybe 3 or 4 . How long do you figure it took you? It'd be easier for me to pay for the labor at the dealer for the fluid changes. I just don't have a half-day or more to give, as much as I'd love to do it.
Where'd you get your fluids from, how much did they cost, and can you list exactly what you used per diff / tranny? Where'd you get that trick oil change valve too? Any pics?
Where'd you get your fluids from, how much did they cost, and can you list exactly what you used per diff / tranny? Where'd you get that trick oil change valve too? Any pics?
-nick
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Originally Posted by bamaevo
Silly question, but can this thread be copied to the how-to section? This is all good info to have and the General thread is not a place I normally search for useful info :-)
-nick
#20
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This is really a duhm question...Do we have to change oil in both differentials and if so is it at the same intervals? All I´ve changed on my car is the oil in the TC and the rear diff(and the engine oil, of course).
Man, I don´t even know where the front diff. is located and where its drain and filler plug is either. Dumb ,dumb, dumb!!!
Man, I don´t even know where the front diff. is located and where its drain and filler plug is either. Dumb ,dumb, dumb!!!
#21
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Originally Posted by sparky
This is really a duhm question...Do we have to change oil in both differentials and if so is it at the same intervals? All I´ve changed on my car is the oil in the TC and the rear diff(and the engine oil, of course).
Man, I don´t even know where the front diff. is located and where its drain and filler plug is either. Dumb ,dumb, dumb!!!
Man, I don´t even know where the front diff. is located and where its drain and filler plug is either. Dumb ,dumb, dumb!!!
Last edited by EVOlutionary; Jun 12, 2006 at 09:07 PM.
#22
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[QUOTE=Amazin' Wasian]all of this info is in your owners manual.....ya know that little book in your glove compartment collecting dust...
Eeh Gad! Man, I am completely retardo! In the morning I am going out to the garage and read the owner´s manual. Then, I´ll get under the car and look for this front diff. Wow, just totally thick, imbecile.
Eeh Gad! Man, I am completely retardo! In the morning I am going out to the garage and read the owner´s manual. Then, I´ll get under the car and look for this front diff. Wow, just totally thick, imbecile.
#23
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I did the 30,000 mile service this week also. Well, I'm still waiting on the brown truck for Diaqueen. The remainder is done.
I too have a funnel with a long hose. It is a back-in-service leftover from my DSM days. I hope it will reach the rear diff as yours did. The tranny oil I got from Mitsu. They sell it in 5-gallon buckets. I bought the bucket the mechanics open to save purchasing the entire five gallons. They first tried to sell me the BG product.
As for changing coolant, don't waste your time looking for the block drain. I knew where it was but still couldn't see or touch it. Maybe somebody knows the magic involved in removing and replacing this plug but not me. BTW, I have a tester for the pressure cap and the cap flunked. I suggest, if you don't have a tester, replacing the cap with every coolant change. Also, and you'll love this, figure on removing the rest of the undercover to get to the radiator drain.
barney
03 Evo
I too have a funnel with a long hose. It is a back-in-service leftover from my DSM days. I hope it will reach the rear diff as yours did. The tranny oil I got from Mitsu. They sell it in 5-gallon buckets. I bought the bucket the mechanics open to save purchasing the entire five gallons. They first tried to sell me the BG product.
As for changing coolant, don't waste your time looking for the block drain. I knew where it was but still couldn't see or touch it. Maybe somebody knows the magic involved in removing and replacing this plug but not me. BTW, I have a tester for the pressure cap and the cap flunked. I suggest, if you don't have a tester, replacing the cap with every coolant change. Also, and you'll love this, figure on removing the rest of the undercover to get to the radiator drain.
barney
03 Evo
#24
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Thanks for the advice on the radiator.
As for tires, I have Pirelli Pzero Nero M&S, non-directional so the X is better. In face, my steering wheel vibration (which led me to believe I needed an alignment) went away with the rotation. Weird.
Engine oil I got from Wal-mart. Mobile 1, 5 quarts for like $22. Amsoil for the transmission is like $9 per quart, so $27 to do this. Diaqueen was like $50 for the bucket, but that's lasted me two changes so far and seems like enough to do at least two more.
As for time, it took me about 5 hours to do everything, but that was working by myself out front (no garage ). So I took it slow. Most of it was waiting for things to drain completely; but I did things like clean the air filter and such while waiting for that.
I'm not too worried about my warranty. I have a log book with all my maintenance and I have saved all my receipts from work done.
If a mod thought this was How-To worthy, I wouldn't mind it being moved. I could also try writing it again with pics (I'd have take some after-the-fact fakes to document it).
As for tires, I have Pirelli Pzero Nero M&S, non-directional so the X is better. In face, my steering wheel vibration (which led me to believe I needed an alignment) went away with the rotation. Weird.
Engine oil I got from Wal-mart. Mobile 1, 5 quarts for like $22. Amsoil for the transmission is like $9 per quart, so $27 to do this. Diaqueen was like $50 for the bucket, but that's lasted me two changes so far and seems like enough to do at least two more.
As for time, it took me about 5 hours to do everything, but that was working by myself out front (no garage ). So I took it slow. Most of it was waiting for things to drain completely; but I did things like clean the air filter and such while waiting for that.
I'm not too worried about my warranty. I have a log book with all my maintenance and I have saved all my receipts from work done.
If a mod thought this was How-To worthy, I wouldn't mind it being moved. I could also try writing it again with pics (I'd have take some after-the-fact fakes to document it).
#25
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also, i don't know about you guys, but i prefer changing my tranny and TC fluids every 15,000 miles and rear diff every 30,000 because i think mitsu was being a little generous making them all 30,000, just like they reccommend oil changes every 5,000 but i do it every 3,000. just to be safe, the factory intervals are for factory cars(most of us have mods)and normal driving(alot of us track or drag our cars), so with the price of the drivetrain parts, i don't think you can change fluids too often, but i know you can not change them enough. i'd rather be the guy that does it too often.
#26
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my dealer wants
oil change : 79.99
tranny change : 89.99
alignment : 89.99
front / rear diff : 99.99
19.99 : rotation
i negotiated for a 30k and 60k maintenance package when i bought my car so im getting all that for free...well not free, but included in the ridiculous price i originally paid for the car..they wouldnt go down a dime off sticker price
those prices should be the same at every dealer....
45$ for diaqueen 40$ for sycromesh for the tranny
so their prices arent too bad except for the oil change....25$ for oil and filter at walmart...50$ labor...fuuuuuuuuuuuuuck that
cheers!
oil change : 79.99
tranny change : 89.99
alignment : 89.99
front / rear diff : 99.99
19.99 : rotation
i negotiated for a 30k and 60k maintenance package when i bought my car so im getting all that for free...well not free, but included in the ridiculous price i originally paid for the car..they wouldnt go down a dime off sticker price
those prices should be the same at every dealer....
45$ for diaqueen 40$ for sycromesh for the tranny
so their prices arent too bad except for the oil change....25$ for oil and filter at walmart...50$ labor...fuuuuuuuuuuuuuck that
cheers!
#28
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Originally Posted by Schuyler
The 30k service is a SERIOUS service - it's the most involved of any car I've ever owned - probably mostly due to the AWD (2 diffs and a transfer case!) etc. I think the local dealer had some outrageous price to do all of it. Most of it was full of crap - like the inspections, etc. Why the heck would I pay a dealer to inspect a car UNDER WARRANTY. I'll wait for it to break and then have them fix it for free.
As far as the 60,000 mile service goes, as far as I can tell it's the 30,000 mile service all over again + spark plugs (about $20 apiece I guess).
#29
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Thread Starter
http://www.fumotovalve.com/ for the valve. Factory direct. I have not read of any horror stories with the fumoto valve. It is very hard to turn and it is not exposed at all (to rocks or bumps). A non-OEM oil filter is in more danger of breaking off than the valve. I got it for two reasons: tool-less oil changes and the ability to drain a little out of the pan if I screw up (I've overfilled by about 1/4 Quart a couple of times).
I change my driveline fluids every 15k, but I do the oil every 5 (keeps things nice and even on the odometer).
As for why I do all this myself: I actually like the Zen aspect of working on the machine. To understand how it works and how to take care of it. Saving money is nice, especially since dealers like to rip off people who bring expensive cars in for maintenance. "The micro-widget is over oscillating, that'll be $1000 to fix"
I change my driveline fluids every 15k, but I do the oil every 5 (keeps things nice and even on the odometer).
As for why I do all this myself: I actually like the Zen aspect of working on the machine. To understand how it works and how to take care of it. Saving money is nice, especially since dealers like to rip off people who bring expensive cars in for maintenance. "The micro-widget is over oscillating, that'll be $1000 to fix"