Did the 30k maintenance this weekend: lessons learned
Jun 13, 2006, 03:06 PM
#31
I wouldn't trust the deal to swap any fluids. They RARELY carry Diaqueen and odds are will fill your car up with some generic CRAP!
Anyone ..... anyone can change the fluids on their car. Its a fricken no brainer. You have a drain plug and a fill plug. The only somewhat tricky one is the transfer case because YOU MUST used DIAQUEEN and you MUST USE a pump to fill it. Simply using a funnel will not work for the transfer case.
Anyone ..... anyone can change the fluids on their car. Its a fricken no brainer. You have a drain plug and a fill plug. The only somewhat tricky one is the transfer case because YOU MUST used DIAQUEEN and you MUST USE a pump to fill it. Simply using a funnel will not work for the transfer case.
Jun 13, 2006, 08:41 PM
#35
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Originally Posted by raf_EVO
So the 30K service requires all this work? Wow! Did not know that. Well considering the amount of stress most of us EVO guys put on this poor car, it's probably a good thing to take care of that expensive AWD.
Thx for the post!
Thx for the post!
Jun 13, 2006, 08:57 PM
#36
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Steering wheel vibration is caused by tire balance. When you rotated them, the unbalanced tires probably went to the rear so you dont feel it in the steering wheel anymore.
Originally Posted by Alacris
Thanks for the advice on the radiator.
As for tires, I have Pirelli Pzero Nero M&S, non-directional so the X is better. In face, my steering wheel vibration (which led me to believe I needed an alignment) went away with the rotation. Weird.
As for tires, I have Pirelli Pzero Nero M&S, non-directional so the X is better. In face, my steering wheel vibration (which led me to believe I needed an alignment) went away with the rotation. Weird.
Jun 13, 2006, 09:06 PM
#37
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Evos usually wear the rears out before the fronts. Maybe because the fronts are so much bigger. This is normal so dont worry. As for the e-brake sticking, the e-brake uses a drum brake inside the rotor so it doesnt use the caliper brake pads.
Originally Posted by Alacris
I checked my brakes for wear. Interesting find: the right rear is only 0.022" from the wear tab. Everything else has like 1/8" left. I have never heard of a rear wheel needing brakes before a front. My only guess is that the e-brake is hanging on that side, but I did not see any sign of that. I will check again next week.
Jun 13, 2006, 09:18 PM
#38
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thanks for your concern, but i don't have any mods to my car, it is still stock.
Originally Posted by hondafan
yeah, but do you really want to unmod your car for a free oil change every 5,000 miles? i'd rather pay the $25 for the oil and filter and do it myself than have my warranty voided for a test pipe or BOV.
Jun 13, 2006, 10:56 PM
#39
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Actually, I'm looking forward to doing my timing belt. This is one serious job that professional mechanics are known to screw up. But when you get it apart and see all the sprockets, well, it is a beautiful thing. I've done a lot of work on cars but the 4G63 timing belt job is the El Supremo maintenance job for garage enjoyment for me.
Jun 13, 2006, 11:20 PM
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Depends if they have one or not. Us early model cars didnt have one.
Originally Posted by Impulsoren
All of these posts and no-one replaced the cabin air filter? Y'all have done lost your warranties now....
Jun 14, 2006, 05:14 AM
#42
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I used a funnel with tubing for the transfer case. Snake it around the oil dipstick and behind/beside the engine, then underneath and into the fill hole. I hooked the Measu-funnel to the hood and just watched it drain.
I will get my tires balanced and an alignment done soon. Hopefully that will fix the problem.
Thanks for the info about the rear brakes / e-brake. I did not know we had a separate drum for the e-brake. I guess that makes sense with the ABS and all.
A
I will get my tires balanced and an alignment done soon. Hopefully that will fix the problem.
Thanks for the info about the rear brakes / e-brake. I did not know we had a separate drum for the e-brake. I guess that makes sense with the ABS and all.
A
Jun 14, 2006, 05:15 AM
#43
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Originally Posted by Impulsoren
All of these posts and no-one replaced the cabin air filter? Y'all have done lost your warranties now....
However at $60, I'll probably just pass.
Jun 14, 2006, 08:48 AM
#44
The transfer case has a few areas that need fluid pumped into them. Simply gravity feeding fluid with a funnel wont work unless you fill it, drive it, fill it, drive it. If you measure how much fluid you put in you should know how close you are to having it filled. I do mine every 15k miles. I also have the TRE larger magnet on the inspection access point. This really collects alot of metal dust. Not sure if it makes much of a difference but its nice to know that stuff isn't acting like sand paper on the internals.
Jun 14, 2006, 09:53 AM
#45
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Ah, I see. Well I don't mind the refill. I do this with the engine oil (I've found that prefilling the filter can be very messy), so I'll just top off. I've used those pump things once and found them to also be very messy. If it was my garage's epoxy floor I probably wouldn't worry, but I have a common-area parking lot to do the work in so any sort of spill is a major no-no.
What's interesting is that I filled the measuring funnel to over the exact amount and it seemed to take all of it. When I top it off I'll try to measure (through subtraction) exactly how much extra it took after a couple of drives.
What's interesting is that I filled the measuring funnel to over the exact amount and it seemed to take all of it. When I top it off I'll try to measure (through subtraction) exactly how much extra it took after a couple of drives.