stage 3r

i currently own a SRT-4 However im in the market for an Mr this year. my SRT-4 is almost 400 hp to the wheels...but with all that torque its hard to get traction. i love the car, and my main concern is when i get my MR is not to get my *** handed to me by one of my fellow SRT-4's (on the E way or from a roll of course).
what im saying is once i get the mr

1...what are some of the simple but yet basic mods that will get me to atleast 350 pounds of torque to the wheels?

2...i've heard that the warranty is an issue with mitsu? is this true?

3...im spending a lot of money for the MR...so the last thing i want to do is mess something up on the car...so i want my mods to be safe. (or as safe as i can get to being safe) no half as mods

any response will be greatly appreciated
thanxx

KOEvo

iTrader: (5)

Search, you should already know this being a car enthusiest already.

Bolt ons + alky injection will net the #'s you want + some.

Warranty can be an issue at times, but if you have a 400 hp race car and break your tranny, can you really expect them to cover it? In all reality it's worth it in the end.

res04

iTrader: (2)

1. Whos dyno? A tune + TBE is a good start anyways. Need a number of things to get 350 tq at the wheels though, 'basic' might be too light a word.
2. your break it you pay for it. cant expect Mitsu to pay for parts that broke because u modded.

IMO a 400hp SRT-4 is still not going to be as fun as a 300hp (DD dyno) Evo. Its not all about fastest from the move, if it were there are better alternatives right?

stage 3r

i would do all the bolt ons of course, but i see that these cars can be reflashed, and there is a good number of people using the safc. water inj. scares me a lil but i know the benefits of it.

at the end of the day if i had to take my mods off and go to the dealer..if it was something severe or something petty i dont want to get my warranty voided....even if i did get my warranty voided i could live with it, but i dont want any mods that have givenany of you guys problems.

what im trying to say is what mods have given the evolution any problems?
i know i could name a few for the SRT-4.

stage 3r

if something were to break i wouldn't mind coming out of pocket, but i dont want to go get something looked at and they try to say that my exhaust caused my headlight to go out..or something crazy like that.

the reason i love the SRT-4 is that it has so much torque. it pulls pretty hard. your right i want an all around car, not just a highway monster. i've been beat by accords of the line. i cant really feel all the power till 3rd gear sometimes.

for that amount of torque your saying i may have to go a lot further then i had expected?....how does the evo respond to basic mods?

res04

iTrader: (2)

Be prepared to kiss coverage goodbye if you flash it, they can use that to deny you pretty much anything if they work hard enough. Thats the thing about the Evo, drive it stock the warranty is great, mod it and consider it part of the price you pay for the enjoyment of the relatively cheap HP.

Spooldyou

iTrader: (52)

I used to have an SRT4 too before i got my evo and its a huge jump the neons a fun car but Usless below 3gear anything above 350 Ft/lbs, which most neons attain. my evos way faster than my neon was



Turboback,Cams pump, Good tune, 350whp Walking Any SRT 4 :-)

stage 3r

sounds like a success i would like to have
how much have you invested in mods? what mods do you have?
i figure if i could run low 12's high 11's i would be done.....(i hope)

KOEvo

iTrader: (5)

All it really take is bolt ons + cams + water injection or race gas. Search around for Warrtalon, his setup is exactly what you're looking for. Not his package which he promotes, but his actual set up.

Low 12s or high 11s is going to void your warranty for sure though.

Of course there are factory parts that aren't as strong as others, but EVERY car has issues, tsb's, recalls.. ALL cars have them. One of the bigger problems is the front transfer case, and all they need it Exhaust to void it because you put more strain on it then was intended from the facatory; yet this is the case for all AWD cars, you just don't have the issue w/ your SRT4 because it's FWD.

sasquatch

The easiest route to 350wtq would be an intake, flash, TBE and mbc. The Buschur stage 1 should be good for almost 350wtq on 93 octane. The IX does not require cams or alky/meth inj for good numbers. BTW these numbers can be attained for about 1500.

stage 3r

how dangerous is a ecu reflash? can it ever be reflashed back to stock?

sasquatch

Oh, most definitely, you ususally need to send it back to your tuner. Flashing is especially good on these cars and can be tailored to your specific mods. Good tuners, like dynoflash, will get you more power and gas mileage, etc. The car runs rich from the factory and they can lean it out to the optimal AFR.

meanmud

iTrader: (74)

An ECU Flash & 3" TBE (no cat) = 348whp/348lb.ft. on a Dynojet

It doesn't get easier

sasquatch

Also I believe that Al at dynoflash has not fried any ecu's, and if he did I believe that he will replace the damaged unit.

BTW, a friend of mine got the stage 1 kit the other day and laid down a 12.4 1/4 with a bad launch.

stage 3r

those are beautiful numbers!