I should have done this two years ago!
#35
The promised pictures....................
Here is the servo mounted off the back side of the strut bar using the "L" shaped bracket provided. If you are worried about appearance there is no reason the bracket couldn't be mounted to the underside of the strut bar.
Why mount to the strut bar. This area next to the master brake cylinder is the only spot big enough for the servo unless you want to go down somewhere around the transmission. What is nice about mounting the servo to the strut bar is you can remove the strut bar and work on it at the bench - no leaning over the fender.
Almost directly below is the speed sensor. It is a little hard to find, look by the rear transmission motor mount. Three wires go to the speed sensor: black with white tracer is power, black is ground, black with yellow tracer is the wire with the speed sensor signal. You will need to remove the battery tray go get down to the speed sensor. Notice that the wire comes up the back side of the engine and joins some other harness at the head.
You do have to remove the rubber boot. I think I will cut the boot to fit around the bracket and return it to the strut bar. I believe the rubber boot is there to keep the battery from hitting the bar in a head-on.
Here is the servo mounted off the back side of the strut bar using the "L" shaped bracket provided. If you are worried about appearance there is no reason the bracket couldn't be mounted to the underside of the strut bar.
Why mount to the strut bar. This area next to the master brake cylinder is the only spot big enough for the servo unless you want to go down somewhere around the transmission. What is nice about mounting the servo to the strut bar is you can remove the strut bar and work on it at the bench - no leaning over the fender.
Almost directly below is the speed sensor. It is a little hard to find, look by the rear transmission motor mount. Three wires go to the speed sensor: black with white tracer is power, black is ground, black with yellow tracer is the wire with the speed sensor signal. You will need to remove the battery tray go get down to the speed sensor. Notice that the wire comes up the back side of the engine and joins some other harness at the head.
You do have to remove the rubber boot. I think I will cut the boot to fit around the bracket and return it to the strut bar. I believe the rubber boot is there to keep the battery from hitting the bar in a head-on.
Last edited by barneyb; Aug 6, 2006 at 10:17 PM. Reason: typo
#36
This the RC Aircraft cable clamp I used to clamp the cruise pull cable to the throttle cable. You want this to be as close to the throttle bellcrank as possible but not into the bell crank. That way you can get a full throttle pull with out hitting the throttle cable sheath. I had to squeeze this a little in a vise before it would get a good grip on both cables.
#37
This next is a picture of the cable clamp I put around both cable housings. This part can be found in any hardware store. I filed it out some with a rattail file so it wouldn't pinch the cables. Place this clamp somewhere near the throttle end of the cables. You want it only tight enough to keep one cable housing from moving relative to the other. Too tight and the cable inside won't move. (Edit) well, for some reason this picture won't upload.
The final picture is of the finished product inside the car. Various controls are available so pick what you want.
The final picture is of the finished product inside the car. Various controls are available so pick what you want.
Last edited by barneyb; Aug 6, 2006 at 10:03 PM. Reason: add picture
#38
Well, I tried to upload the picture of the hardware store clamp again using a new post but still no go.
Last edited by barneyb; Aug 6, 2006 at 09:35 PM. Reason: tried up upload picture - didn't work