I have some toe plates here that we used before I bought this higher end equipment. I also have a nice camber/caster gauge, digital with the wheel bracket for setting it. I'd actually like to sell the toe plates and camber/caster gauge if anyone is interested. I can take a picture and post it if someone wants it. I'd sell them both for $175. I used these with a laser level and would set the rear toe too, square to the front of the car. Worked pretty good.

 

SOB... I've been thinking about this for months, but never did anything about it. I'm glad you mention this Dave. It seems obvious that the EVO toes out from the factory by how sensitive the steering is and how badly it tracks on our **** poor NE highways. I also got under the car the day before leaving for the SO to change some fluids and saw the pretty bad wear on the insides of my front tires. It has been my experience with the 2g that I can run all the negative camber I want and get even tire wear and very long life, if the toe is set dead ahead.

I had also considered the possible effect this could have on quarter mile performance, since dragging the front tires all the way down the track not only scrubbs the tread off, but uses up valuable HP. Unfortunately I never did anything about it, because I have no where to go that I can trust. Is it possible to get this done right on a standard issue laser type alignment rack if someone that gives two ****s avout my car is doing the alignment? My brother is a mitsu tech and can do alignments. So I guess my question is, is the bulk of the problem inherent to the equipment used, or lack of time spent and attention to detail by the person using the equipment?

 

what should the car be set up for dragging spec wise? also as a daily driver

 

Thanks again David for the kick *** alignment. I can't believe how far off the Mitsubishi shop was. What a waste of $120!!!

At the shootout I cut a 1.60 60' on Toyo RA-1 road racing tires 255/40-17 which is just crazy and was seeing consistent low 1.62, 1.63 60's.

Trevor

 

so Trevor what is your aligment set at?

 

You will have to get the numbers from David if he chooses to release them...mum's the word from me cuz its his bread and butter.

 

I was wondering when you were going to bring this up Dave. Good stuff. I was there Monday morning talking with you and Brandon. See you at Nationals next month.

 

What..... So you know?......... Not all of us have great tuners in our area so we depend on other evo owners to help us out.

 

I'm gonna go out on a limb and say that setting everything to zero toe with a good thrust alignement is going to be best for drag racing. This is what I did with the 2g. It won't turn in as aggressively as it will with some toe out, but it's more stable at speed in straight lines. All compromises I'm willing to make to get good 1320 performance. I'm going to try to find someone that can do this for me by friday, since I plan on running the car again Friday night looking for the reason my car was so slow at the SO.

 

also I though Robi Spec was the one who showed him this......

 

Day 1. Dave buys new alignment equipment to align cars and offers service.
Day 2. Magically makes 35whp after alignment
Day 3. Stirs koolaid.

 

It's not that there are some new secret alignment specs he discovered, the point is that a GOOD alignment doesn't cost $65, and that a proper job makes the car roll better. Pick alignment numbers that suit what you want to do with the car and pay someone with good equipment that really knows what they are doing to do it. It makes a difference.

 

I know what you are saying. I have a guy that will do my stuff for me he just asked mw where I want it set to and he will do it. So again I'm asking what is the best setup for the strip and daily driver.

 

So Dave what type of equipment should the shops have to give us a good alignment? Up here in Washington I don't know of any real performance alignment shop. I know Robert is up here right now but I dont have any of my suspension bits installed...

 

Alignment Specialties in Aloha, Oregon. They do a good job.

I think -2.0 front and -1.0 rear with 0 toe all the way around is a safe bet. Someone pelase correct me if I am wrong.