Danger in weight reduction??
Sep 25, 2006, 02:17 PM
#17
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If you're looking for significant weight savings...removing the dust sheilds wouldn't yield much of anything in terms of weight loss (maybe 1lb for all 4?) If you're really interested in true weight reduction start with the basics like the spare, jack and tools, lighter battery, etc. I personally stripped my car down to the bare metal from the middle of the car back and installed an Autopower cage. Also, drain the wiper resevoir and remove as much of the sound material as you can.
But IMHO, it just depends on how far you're willing to go with weight reduction...but the two items you are inquiring about really won't do anything for you.
But IMHO, it just depends on how far you're willing to go with weight reduction...but the two items you are inquiring about really won't do anything for you.
Sep 25, 2006, 02:27 PM
#18
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Originally Posted by dudical26
Don’t respond just to say something stupid.
a) they don't really weight anything
b) there are potential detrimental effects
Sorry if that was "stupid" and not what you want to hear, but clearly you're looking for someone to justify you taking those 2 parts off, and it seems about 98% are going to say NO. So go for it anyway if you're just going to dismiss people's advice regardless...
Sep 25, 2006, 02:30 PM
#19
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It's fine that he asked for specific answers to his questions, but he is quite RUDE to the people who are trying to help. It seems most are trying to save him from going down the wrong path, and it's everything but appreciated. I don't think he's deserving of any more info.
Sep 25, 2006, 02:46 PM
#21
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The dust shields also provide protection from puddles. Water hitting a hot rotor can warp them suckers in a instant! The weight savings on the removal on these would be very minimal....but I will help against brake fade...
Sep 25, 2006, 07:21 PM
#23
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In conclusion:
Removing these parts will barely net you any benefit. Take the advice given to you and remove the spare wheel and jack. Empty out the washer fluid tank and get some lightweight replacement parts. Weight reduction in cars can be really expensive.
Removing these parts will barely net you any benefit. Take the advice given to you and remove the spare wheel and jack. Empty out the washer fluid tank and get some lightweight replacement parts. Weight reduction in cars can be really expensive.
Dec 26, 2006, 09:45 PM
#24
Evap system weighs about 7 lbs if I remember correctly. I capped the line going to the engine compartment, stuck a mini K&N breather filter on the vent line. (I thought about installing a rollover valve on the vent line but the FSM seems to indicate that there is already one there.) Removed the evap solenoid, removed all the lines going to the intake manifold. Still need to remove the hard line going from the rear to the front of the car. I don't know if it causes more CEL lights because (1) I've deleted my CEL light bulb and (2) I cut off power to the whole car (including the ECU) when it's parked, clearing any codes that might otherwise accumulate. The few times I've checked for new CEL codes with an OBDII reader, I didn't see any.
EGR system also deleted. Engine runs just fine. The evap and EGR make a small enough difference that the stock ECU will just deal with it in closed-loop running. No smell of gas fumes when the car is parked, no leaking gas, etc.
Obviously not emissions-legal, I don't care since I have a non-road-legal full-race-prep car.
Since you asked.
EGR system also deleted. Engine runs just fine. The evap and EGR make a small enough difference that the stock ECU will just deal with it in closed-loop running. No smell of gas fumes when the car is parked, no leaking gas, etc.
Obviously not emissions-legal, I don't care since I have a non-road-legal full-race-prep car.
Since you asked.
Dec 27, 2006, 06:53 PM
#25
Evap system weighs about 7 lbs if I remember correctly. I capped the line going to the engine compartment, stuck a mini K&N breather filter on the vent line. (I thought about installing a rollover valve on the vent line but the FSM seems to indicate that there is already one there.) Removed the evap solenoid, removed all the lines going to the intake manifold. Still need to remove the hard line going from the rear to the front of the car. I don't know if it causes more CEL lights because (1) I've deleted my CEL light bulb and (2) I cut off power to the whole car (including the ECU) when it's parked, clearing any codes that might otherwise accumulate. The few times I've checked for new CEL codes with an OBDII reader, I didn't see any.
EGR system also deleted. Engine runs just fine. The evap and EGR make a small enough difference that the stock ECU will just deal with it in closed-loop running. No smell of gas fumes when the car is parked, no leaking gas, etc.
Obviously not emissions-legal, I don't care since I have a non-road-legal full-race-prep car.
Since you asked.
EGR system also deleted. Engine runs just fine. The evap and EGR make a small enough difference that the stock ECU will just deal with it in closed-loop running. No smell of gas fumes when the car is parked, no leaking gas, etc.
Obviously not emissions-legal, I don't care since I have a non-road-legal full-race-prep car.
Since you asked.
Dec 27, 2006, 08:08 PM
#28
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The heat shields also deflect heat away the ABS sensor and wires a little. When things get really hot without the shields these can melt.
I have run with and without with no problems. Presently I have them installed but also have the forge brake ducts. Up to you I guess.
I have run with and without with no problems. Presently I have them installed but also have the forge brake ducts. Up to you I guess.
