Crash bar for JDM Evo IX bumper
Feb 28, 2007, 01:39 AM
#61
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I looked up the DOT's testing requirements for low-speed impacts to the rear bumper. Testing is done by:
1) Impact using a pendulum device twice on the rear surface at 2.5 MPH,
2) Impact using a pendulum device once on each corner of the bumper at 1.5 MPH, and
3) Impact into a “fixed collision barrier” while traveling rearward at 2.5 MPH.
The criteria for passing includes: lamps (except license plate lamps) don’t crack, the trunk still opens, no leaks or constrictions of fuel or cooling systems (both lines and caps), no leaks or constrictions of the exhaust, suspension and brakes work OK, and no fastener damage other than where the “bumper face bar” connects to the chassis frame.
It sounds like the huge crash bar Mitsu puts in US Evos is almost overkill for these 2.5/1.5 MPH impacts :P. This custom bar appears that it will surely handle these requirements, including the corner impacts. Actually, I think if you trimmed the OEM crash bar, it’d probably fail the corner impact tests, given what others have said about how much you’d need to trim. So this custom bar seems to be a good solution.
I got this information from the DOT's bumper standard, available here:
http://www.access.gpo.gov/nara/cfr/w...cfr581_06.html
1) Impact using a pendulum device twice on the rear surface at 2.5 MPH,
2) Impact using a pendulum device once on each corner of the bumper at 1.5 MPH, and
3) Impact into a “fixed collision barrier” while traveling rearward at 2.5 MPH.
The criteria for passing includes: lamps (except license plate lamps) don’t crack, the trunk still opens, no leaks or constrictions of fuel or cooling systems (both lines and caps), no leaks or constrictions of the exhaust, suspension and brakes work OK, and no fastener damage other than where the “bumper face bar” connects to the chassis frame.
It sounds like the huge crash bar Mitsu puts in US Evos is almost overkill for these 2.5/1.5 MPH impacts :P. This custom bar appears that it will surely handle these requirements, including the corner impacts. Actually, I think if you trimmed the OEM crash bar, it’d probably fail the corner impact tests, given what others have said about how much you’d need to trim. So this custom bar seems to be a good solution.
I got this information from the DOT's bumper standard, available here:
http://www.access.gpo.gov/nara/cfr/w...cfr581_06.html
May 23, 2007, 12:34 AM
#63
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$200-250 maybe right to most people. Way too much money if made overseas. But $320.00 for a custom "one-off" part cleany done, TIG welded, capped and welded at the ends with gussets(detail AKA "finish work"), and fits...................is actually a good deal. Everyone is so cheap.
And as far the JDM crash beam goes, I have never seen one that does anymore than support the bumber and/or license plate.
So has anyone with a JDM rear bumper w/o a crash beam been rear ended yet? And were they SOL with their insurance?
And as far the JDM crash beam goes, I have never seen one that does anymore than support the bumber and/or license plate.
So has anyone with a JDM rear bumper w/o a crash beam been rear ended yet? And were they SOL with their insurance?
Actually, the guy I had fab this for me spent a lot of time making sure this fit my car perfectly. No crash tests were done but the part was designed so it would absorb the impact from a crash. Crush structures are incorporated into the mount that don't show up very well in the photos. It's just my opinion, but I believe this bar will provide my car with at least the same protection as the stock one did. It also provides structural support to the JDM bumper cover because of the way it is formed. As for the cost, the price I paid was based on his shop labor rate x hours spent working on the part plus the material. I don't know if he will change that. Maybe if he was building several at the same time, the setup time could be spread out over all. I know that I'm very happy with the part and I felt the price was fair considering what was delivered.
Oct 7, 2007, 04:32 AM
#68
Funny that no one has chimed in that actually has a JDM bumper installed to give feedback on real world fittament, sag, or insurance woes.
If you've got this piece, you'd have to work with the adjuster (assuming he'll agree to purchase the part) to accomodate the JDM bumper. They're only obligated to repair or replace parts with "like kind and quality".
If you've got this piece, you'd have to work with the adjuster (assuming he'll agree to purchase the part) to accomodate the JDM bumper. They're only obligated to repair or replace parts with "like kind and quality".
Oct 7, 2007, 11:49 AM
#69
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Funny that no one has chimed in that actually has a JDM bumper installed to give feedback on real world fittament, sag, or insurance woes.
If you've got this piece, you'd have to work with the adjuster (assuming he'll agree to purchase the part) to accomodate the JDM bumper. They're only obligated to repair or replace parts with "like kind and quality".
If you've got this piece, you'd have to work with the adjuster (assuming he'll agree to purchase the part) to accomodate the JDM bumper. They're only obligated to repair or replace parts with "like kind and quality".
+1
Oct 7, 2007, 11:51 AM
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Funny that no one has chimed in that actually has a JDM bumper installed to give feedback on real world fittament, sag, or insurance woes.
If you've got this piece, you'd have to work with the adjuster (assuming he'll agree to purchase the part) to accomodate the JDM bumper. They're only obligated to repair or replace parts with "like kind and quality".
If you've got this piece, you'd have to work with the adjuster (assuming he'll agree to purchase the part) to accomodate the JDM bumper. They're only obligated to repair or replace parts with "like kind and quality".
This crash bar appeared to be well made imo.
Perfect fitment w/o any modding to the bar or the bumper and no sag.
Oct 7, 2007, 05:58 PM
#72
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Or, you could modify the stock one for less than $100 if you have someone do it for you.
Or you could use a dremel, cut what needs to be cut yourself, take it to a welder and have him weld it for a 6 pack of beer, or $20 or so
Or you could use a dremel, cut what needs to be cut yourself, take it to a welder and have him weld it for a 6 pack of beer, or $20 or so
Dec 3, 2007, 09:34 AM
#73
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If you cut the stock crash beam there will be nothing left. That was my intention until I got in there and realized cutting the stocker would just be stupid and more work than it is worth and kill all the structural integrity of the part. So I did this instead:
This isnt as good as a bumper of course but it is better than nothing and will distribute the load to both factory mounting points if hit from the rear the way the stocker does. BTW, I used 2x2 tubing, welded on end caps, painted, and grade 8 hardware. You like???
This isnt as good as a bumper of course but it is better than nothing and will distribute the load to both factory mounting points if hit from the rear the way the stocker does. BTW, I used 2x2 tubing, welded on end caps, painted, and grade 8 hardware. You like???
Last edited by TURBevO8; Dec 3, 2007 at 09:46 AM.
Way to go for diy'ers 
