another bov thread, haha
#1
another bov thread, haha
before u guys start flaming, hear me out first. i got my Greddy rs installed by Turbotrix racing, it was recommended by em, they r a very reputable shop, so i went along. it idles fine, holds boost fine. only thing i noticed is that when i get on the throttle hitting 20+ psi and dump the gas paddle i heard the sound of bov and it felt like the car just hit a wall, is this normal? also in 5th gear if i only give it enough gas to hit low boost and stay in low boost, the air to fuel ratio goes to 10! and the car would start bogging. it is fine when i get on the throttle harder. i know it is an adjustable bov, so my question is that should i turn it softer or harder? and how much should i adjust it? or if i leave it alone, would this harm the car? thanx for ur time guys.
#2
Hey potholes, nice to see you on the Evo forum. I always see you on the, dare I say it, ClubRSX forums.
A/F goes to 10? Wow that's extremely rich. Honestly potholes, I would take the car to Turbotrix and have them see what's up with the ratio at low boost in 5th gear. Doing a data log would help immensely for the pros on the forum to see exactly what the car's doing.
In regards to you hitting a wall after 20+ with the dv, I would try adjusting it both ways to see if it helps with the problem. The dv is a hit and miss as each one requires different adjustments like a mbc. Imho, I think making it softer might help with the "hitting a wall" syndrome as it could be not enough pressure being vented and some back pressure making its way back to the turbine.
Good luck.
A/F goes to 10? Wow that's extremely rich. Honestly potholes, I would take the car to Turbotrix and have them see what's up with the ratio at low boost in 5th gear. Doing a data log would help immensely for the pros on the forum to see exactly what the car's doing.
In regards to you hitting a wall after 20+ with the dv, I would try adjusting it both ways to see if it helps with the problem. The dv is a hit and miss as each one requires different adjustments like a mbc. Imho, I think making it softer might help with the "hitting a wall" syndrome as it could be not enough pressure being vented and some back pressure making its way back to the turbine.
Good luck.
#3
Standard compressor surge and flutter. You just have to learn how to drive the car properly with a strong BOV. Don't do part-throttle partial boosting. If you're not at WOT, you can't worry about your AFRs showing 10s. Our tunes are for the open loop map, which is when you're at WOT or at least high throttle.
#5
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
Standard compressor surge and flutter. You just have to learn how to drive the car properly with a strong BOV. Don't do part-throttle partial boosting. If you're not at WOT, you can't worry about your AFRs showing 10s. Our tunes are for the open loop map, which is when you're at WOT or at least high throttle.
#7
I can't help you with the spring. The Greddy isn't great for the Evo, so I don't recommend it, but any strong BOV will reduce drivability. It's the trade-off for having the most efficient boost system with no leaks. You have to learn how to avoid the surging and fluttering by doing a full lift on the accelerator if you're partial boosting...don't gradually let off, or the car will buck. Compressor surge hurts the car, but flutter doesn't. If you are truly hitting a brick wall, that would indicate fuel cut, but that's only at WOT, not when letting off.
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#8
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
I can't help you with the spring. The Greddy isn't great for the Evo, so I don't recommend it, but any strong BOV will reduce drivability. It's the trade-off for having the most efficient boost system with no leaks. You have to learn how to avoid the surging and fluttering by doing a full lift on the accelerator if you're partial boosting...don't gradually let off, or the car will buck. Compressor surge hurts the car, but flutter doesn't. If you are truly hitting a brick wall, that would indicate fuel cut, but that's only at WOT, not when letting off.
#9
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
You have to learn how to avoid the surging and fluttering by doing a full lift on the accelerator if you're partial boosting...don't gradually let off, or the car will buck. .
#10
You apologized for making the 7,284,658th BOV thread, and we didn't rip you a new one. Now, don't you think this would be a good time to use the search feature? You have a clearly defined topic to search for now, so it should be easy to find tons of information.
#12
check to see if TurboTrix did the single spring conversion on the RS bov. not sure if the RS uses dual springs like the Type S bov. search on how to remove one of the springs and set the tention screw to full soft.
#13
Evolved Member
iTrader: (37)
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Spec-Ops Motorsports, Fayetteville, NC
dont remove the other spring... we just went thru that problem here with the RS.... it works better with both springs, and you hold boost better, it also wont open at idle or minor amounts of back pressure..... +1 for warr's idea, just learn how to drive the car with it on there. there are so many aftermarket parts that change the way you drive your car to deal with their superior designs. clutches are another key example.
#14
Originally Posted by ihatepotholes
....and it felt like the car just hit a wall, is this normal?
#15
I have the RS also. When adjusting the spring, keep loosing it until when you build about 1-3psi of boost, after you blow off, it should be a clean whoosh sound. If it makes a turkey call noise, its to tight. Also keep both springs in. It seems to discharge the air under low boost quicker than the stock BOV.