intake silencer
#16
The snorkel, you mean? Removing that does nothing and certainily doesn't make it an open element intake, but it would be open element if he took the cover off the airbox. I can't believe he'd call that an "intake silencer," though.
#25
Originally Posted by BlueDemon
^The cover yeah plus the air duct/dam. That's what i meant, thanks bro
On a more serious note, I wouldn't bother with the flux capacitor.
It's better to route the LICP through the BOV and pass the ACD through the MBC and couple them against the WGA. Once you've got all that done, you should be able to PIITB FTW IIRC without disturbing the intake manifold VE and integrating that into the FMIC and the BBK should get the BDK to reduce the temperature in your MAF and 10.5. Make sure also that it's all in titanium, specially where you have the GT35 and 50trim cos steel will just melt.
That should be at least 785whp and 844wtq at 68psi or 93MON and run 9.4@273. That's if you're granny shifting and not double clutching (like you should).
#29
Guys I know this is all fun but some new people who will actually use the search feature are going to come across this thread and start asking where the flux capacitor is located and where is the blinker fluid refill. Please let it be known that these are jokes. I know its fun to make fun of people but I am not sure this is helping out our forum.
#30
Originally Posted by x838nwy
If I recall correctly, without the cover there's nothing holding the filter element inplace. Probably not the best option to go with.
On a more serious note, I wouldn't bother with the flux capacitor.
It's better to route the LICP through the BOV and pass the ACD through the MBC and couple them against the WGA. Once you've got all that done, you should be able to PIITB FTW IIRC without disturbing the intake manifold VE and integrating that into the FMIC and the BBK should get the BDK to reduce the temperature in your MAF and 10.5. Make sure also that it's all in titanium, specially where you have the GT35 and 50trim cos steel will just melt.
That should be at least 785whp and 844wtq at 68psi or 93MON and run 9.4@273. That's if you're granny shifting and not double clutching (like you should).
On a more serious note, I wouldn't bother with the flux capacitor.
It's better to route the LICP through the BOV and pass the ACD through the MBC and couple them against the WGA. Once you've got all that done, you should be able to PIITB FTW IIRC without disturbing the intake manifold VE and integrating that into the FMIC and the BBK should get the BDK to reduce the temperature in your MAF and 10.5. Make sure also that it's all in titanium, specially where you have the GT35 and 50trim cos steel will just melt.
That should be at least 785whp and 844wtq at 68psi or 93MON and run 9.4@273. That's if you're granny shifting and not double clutching (like you should).