1. All seasons are not great for drag racing. Advans are arguably the best tires, but they are $$$. The Falken 615s (255/40/17) are as close to the Advans without the cost. I ran Sumitomo HTR zIIs (235/45/17) on my car - they lasted over 30k with many drag and open track days.

2. 291 whp - on a Dynojet (yes, no two read the same) but with all that - that is low. Even 320 whp with cams seems low. I made 318 or so without cams on a DJ.

What was your plug gap?

 

Plug gap is .027 ( that is what i was told by Buschur Racing to gap them at)

My dyno run was on a Superflow WinDyn. they said it is rated at STP. they said it is about 15 to 20 WHP lower than a Dynojet.

You know i just dont know anymore. I would say its a 50/50 anymore. Half the people say my car is running fine and the other half says it is running really weak. I just dont know what ot think anymore. i would like to find an EVO with the same mods as me and drive his/her car just to see if there is a difference. Sorry just venting i am just stressed about it anymore

And i am planning on buying new summer tires for the road and track, just need some good advice about them, i will look into the ones you suggested. thanks for the help. keep it coming

Dru'

 

Humm. Gap is correct.

No, I understand the venting. And I dont have an answer to help. Maybe running EcuScan or another logging software may show you something that was missed? ((Like something uber simple as the TB no opening 100% at WOT -- just an example...)) Either way good luck with it.

Here is the Falken 615 search, there are a few good threads that talk a lot about them:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/se...archid=3566229

I will be using this tire for next summer/track.

As far as the Sumi's go. I dont think many (I might have been one of the only one on EvoM ??) to run this tire. Rated at 220 treadwear, AA, A - and they are cheap:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....Model=HTR+Z+II

If you dont track all the time (i.e. daily driver) these are not a bad option.

 

get rid of the cat, run alky or meth.

 

have you gotten a compression test?

please post your full mod list and the manufacturers of those mods if you dont mind.

your car definitely is running weak. mine is too so i know how you feel =\ i don't know whats wrong with mine either, other than blaming the tune. its getting retuned by jestr soon so hopefully that will fix things

 

i was going to run alky, meth or nitrous and then i seen this picture that a guy posted when he said he was running alky. so it scared me off the idea

 

Buschur Racing EVO VIII 3" DOWNPIPE
Buschur Racing EVO VIII 3" HIGH FLOW CATALYTIC CONVERTER
Buschur Racing EVO VIII 3" CATBACK
Buschur Racing MANUAL BOOST CONTROLLER
Buschur Racing EVO VIII MAF PIPE KIT
Buschur Racing EVO VIII UPPER INTERCOOLER PIPE
Buschur Racing FORGE RS BOV
Buschur Racing RACE FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER
Buschur Racing LOWER INTERCOOLER PIPE
Buschur Racing SHORT THROW SHIFTER
Buschur Racing HKS 272 INTAKE CAMSHAFT
Buschur Racing HKS 272 EXHAUST CAMSHAFT
Buschur Racing APR STUD KIT
Buschur Racing WALBRO 255LPH FUEL PUMP

 

with your 60 foot you should be in the 11's with that setup

in 4th gear, you're letting it ride past redline till the 1/4 finishes right?

too bad you couldnt just let clay drive your car. if he couldnt do too much better then something is definitely wrong.

im not good at diagnosing shifts. someone should read his slip and let us know if its just his ****ing is slow.

if mechanicly nothing can be found, and its definitely not your parts combination and also isnt your driving (great 60 foot) then i only see one thing left to blame...

hate to say it but i think it's your tune as well. =\

 

Well tonight i am going to do two things.

1. I am going to have a friend hold down the gas petal all the way (with the car not running) and see if the Trottle body is opening all the way

2. I am going to do a compression test on my cylinders.

As far as the quarter mile, i dont let off the gas until i am atleast 300 feet past the 1/4 mile sign. I take out my floor mat and go ***** to the wall.

Here is something i was wondernig about. I would say 1 or of 3 times i go WOT (at the track and on the street) my throttle sticks. But see it isnt like normal throttle sticking because when i press the clutch in and when it is sticking the RPMs stay exactly at what i was at in gear. They DONT go any higher. so i am a little confused about that. if i didnt explain that good enough just tell me and i will explain in better detail.

 

i also have the sumitomo's and they do great...and last

 

Did you get re-tuned when you added the cams? Or was your tune with all of your current mods? did you add anything since the tune?

Is the code still there?

A 1.70 60ft is good, where are you shifting (RPM).?

 

sounds like you need to datalog before anything can be answered.

if you have a pocketlogger or something you can check the TPS for voltage and 100% throttle opening.

you also said that you get the dreaded P0300 code. this could be DRASTICALLY PULLING YOUR TIMING UP TOP in the rpm range hindering your 1/4mi times.

.02

 

I gota disagree with that, for an AWD, they are great, in a certain power range. Especially for an evo with a stock clutch the sticky advans or other good sticky tires are to much grip for the stock clutch and its actaully easier to get a better 60' with crappy tires. Many awd's can easily get 1.6x' with all seasons, dsms for an easy example, and my own stealth was getting 1.56 60s with all seasons. Now for retarded high power cars, obviously they dont work well but for a mid 11s awd, great choice imo. Somethings gota give, and a bit of slip off the line is alot easier on the drive train.

 

Evo4Ash@D - good to hear!

Phalse - Im 50/50 with you. Yes a stock Evo may benefit from less traction off the line to save the drivetrain some. But his car makes (or should make) hp = or greater than me - in this particular case A/S tires wont cut it. <-- This is where I disagree with you - for a 13 to mid 12 car - sure A/S if you have 60' bogging and dt shock. But for cars that can spin Advans at launch (i.e. like me) A/S wont work them for a low 12 - mid high to high 11s car.


Dru - good idea to take of the intake before the TB - with your friend watching "drive" it like you do at the track - act like its running down the track...see if once in a while (or all the time) that it opens all the way or if it sticks. Also check the TB cable - it should be clipped on you valve cover, and there should not be slack in the line.

 

[/QUOTE]
Here is something i was wondernig about. I would say 1 or of 3 times i go WOT (at the track and on the street) my throttle sticks. But see it isnt like normal throttle sticking because when i press the clutch in and when it is sticking the RPMs stay exactly at what i was at in gear. They DONT go any higher. so i am a little confused about that. if i didnt explain that good enough just tell me and i will explain in better detail.[/QUOTE]

I have the same thing happen sometimes with the exedy twin plate. I think it might be the throw-out bearing...I have only had this clutch in for about 1200 miles, and was not having the issue before changing out the clutch...any thoughts?