Good source for Evolution VIII timing belt?
Feb 4, 2007, 09:24 PM
#31
Evolved Member
Well, I've been riding behind a turbo'd 4g63 since 1992 and during that time I never had a car in for warranty work. Well, I had my Evo in for the P0300 reflash if you want to call that warranty work.
So, here's the deal. As the miles go my the timing belt stretches. The tensioner has a certain amount of adjustment, the amount depending on how it was initially installed. Once the tensioner runs out of adjustment the belt gets loose. If it gets loose enough it jumps time. I found a loose timing belt on my DSM at 52,000 miles.
Then there is the balancer belt. It has no tensioner. So when it stretches it gets loose right away. But since this is a smaller belt it hopefully doesn't stretch too much. At the above 52,000 mile mark this belt was loose too.
Then there is the tensioner. Occasionally it will leak its fluid. I think the fluid is to keep the spring from bouncing - sort of like a shock absorber.
Next we come to the water pump. Any time you need to replace the water pump what you have to do is a timing belt job. At the same 52,000 mile mark I also found an antifreeze stain at the water pump weep hole. So, it was about ready to go too.
Finally there are a lot of seals on the front of the 4G63; the crank, the oil pump, the balance shaft and the two cams. If any of these seals start throwing oil it is going to get onto the timing belt and it will fail. And there's the tensioner pulley, the idler pulley and the tensioner pulley on the balance shaft with bearings in each. These bearings need to at least be inspected.
That first 52,000 mile timing belt job made quite an impression on me.
Also I was in the dealer's shop one day when a 4G63 came in that had thrown a timing belt and got to watch the mechanic tear it down. The first thing you find is that all the electrodes are missing off of the spark plugs. Then once you get it open you find the valves either bent or broken. There are dents everywhere. So when this happens maybe you can save the block but the head is always toast. You will also get to discuss whether the big dents in the pistons mean that they are cracked or not.
So while you guys think you can go to 100,000 miles on a belt I worry about going to 60,000.
So, here's the deal. As the miles go my the timing belt stretches. The tensioner has a certain amount of adjustment, the amount depending on how it was initially installed. Once the tensioner runs out of adjustment the belt gets loose. If it gets loose enough it jumps time. I found a loose timing belt on my DSM at 52,000 miles.
Then there is the balancer belt. It has no tensioner. So when it stretches it gets loose right away. But since this is a smaller belt it hopefully doesn't stretch too much. At the above 52,000 mile mark this belt was loose too.
Then there is the tensioner. Occasionally it will leak its fluid. I think the fluid is to keep the spring from bouncing - sort of like a shock absorber.
Next we come to the water pump. Any time you need to replace the water pump what you have to do is a timing belt job. At the same 52,000 mile mark I also found an antifreeze stain at the water pump weep hole. So, it was about ready to go too.
Finally there are a lot of seals on the front of the 4G63; the crank, the oil pump, the balance shaft and the two cams. If any of these seals start throwing oil it is going to get onto the timing belt and it will fail. And there's the tensioner pulley, the idler pulley and the tensioner pulley on the balance shaft with bearings in each. These bearings need to at least be inspected.
That first 52,000 mile timing belt job made quite an impression on me.
Also I was in the dealer's shop one day when a 4G63 came in that had thrown a timing belt and got to watch the mechanic tear it down. The first thing you find is that all the electrodes are missing off of the spark plugs. Then once you get it open you find the valves either bent or broken. There are dents everywhere. So when this happens maybe you can save the block but the head is always toast. You will also get to discuss whether the big dents in the pistons mean that they are cracked or not.
So while you guys think you can go to 100,000 miles on a belt I worry about going to 60,000.
Feb 5, 2007, 04:20 PM
#33
Evolving Member
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Chicago
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Feb 5, 2007, 08:34 PM
#37
Well, I've been riding behind a turbo'd 4g63 since 1992 and during that time I never had a car in for warranty work. Well, I had my Evo in for the P0300 reflash if you want to call that warranty work.
So, here's the deal. As the miles go my the timing belt stretches. The tensioner has a certain amount of adjustment, the amount depending on how it was initially installed. Once the tensioner runs out of adjustment the belt gets loose. If it gets loose enough it jumps time. I found a loose timing belt on my DSM at 52,000 miles.
Then there is the balancer belt. It has no tensioner. So when it stretches it gets loose right away. But since this is a smaller belt it hopefully doesn't stretch too much. At the above 52,000 mile mark this belt was loose too.
Then there is the tensioner. Occasionally it will leak its fluid. I think the fluid is to keep the spring from bouncing - sort of like a shock absorber.
Next we come to the water pump. Any time you need to replace the water pump what you have to do is a timing belt job. At the same 52,000 mile mark I also found an antifreeze stain at the water pump weep hole. So, it was about ready to go too.
Finally there are a lot of seals on the front of the 4G63; the crank, the oil pump, the balance shaft and the two cams. If any of these seals start throwing oil it is going to get onto the timing belt and it will fail. And there's the tensioner pulley, the idler pulley and the tensioner pulley on the balance shaft with bearings in each. These bearings need to at least be inspected.
That first 52,000 mile timing belt job made quite an impression on me.
Also I was in the dealer's shop one day when a 4G63 came in that had thrown a timing belt and got to watch the mechanic tear it down. The first thing you find is that all the electrodes are missing off of the spark plugs. Then once you get it open you find the valves either bent or broken. There are dents everywhere. So when this happens maybe you can save the block but the head is always toast. You will also get to discuss whether the big dents in the pistons mean that they are cracked or not.
So while you guys think you can go to 100,000 miles on a belt I worry about going to 60,000.
So, here's the deal. As the miles go my the timing belt stretches. The tensioner has a certain amount of adjustment, the amount depending on how it was initially installed. Once the tensioner runs out of adjustment the belt gets loose. If it gets loose enough it jumps time. I found a loose timing belt on my DSM at 52,000 miles.
Then there is the balancer belt. It has no tensioner. So when it stretches it gets loose right away. But since this is a smaller belt it hopefully doesn't stretch too much. At the above 52,000 mile mark this belt was loose too.
Then there is the tensioner. Occasionally it will leak its fluid. I think the fluid is to keep the spring from bouncing - sort of like a shock absorber.
Next we come to the water pump. Any time you need to replace the water pump what you have to do is a timing belt job. At the same 52,000 mile mark I also found an antifreeze stain at the water pump weep hole. So, it was about ready to go too.
Finally there are a lot of seals on the front of the 4G63; the crank, the oil pump, the balance shaft and the two cams. If any of these seals start throwing oil it is going to get onto the timing belt and it will fail. And there's the tensioner pulley, the idler pulley and the tensioner pulley on the balance shaft with bearings in each. These bearings need to at least be inspected.
That first 52,000 mile timing belt job made quite an impression on me.
Also I was in the dealer's shop one day when a 4G63 came in that had thrown a timing belt and got to watch the mechanic tear it down. The first thing you find is that all the electrodes are missing off of the spark plugs. Then once you get it open you find the valves either bent or broken. There are dents everywhere. So when this happens maybe you can save the block but the head is always toast. You will also get to discuss whether the big dents in the pistons mean that they are cracked or not.
So while you guys think you can go to 100,000 miles on a belt I worry about going to 60,000.
I'll have to agree with barney on this one. Don't let the post count fool you.
I spend more time driving and wrenchin than I do posting !!! I've had 4 turbo
Eclipse's and Talons. I've had a B-belt go at 65k, made the car jump timing one
tooth. Still drove but shaked like crazy. I've also replaced the t-belt and b-belt
but not the water pump. Only to have it fail at 100k in the summer,on a road trip,
DURING hurricane Charlie !!! I saved $100 at first, but had to get towed and redo
the t-belt install to replace the water pump !!! I've also changed my belts at 62k,
only to see no wear at all on the belts. I've only changed a tensioner once !!!
Only to have it fail 1000 miles later !!! First time I let someone work on my car !!
Bastards DID NOT change it !!! But charged me for it !!!!
I've gone 82k and seen no wear either....
My Evo now has 60k on it, but I see no cam gear leaks and no wear on the belt.
So I'll wait til about 70k to do it. I still have a T-belt on my Supra to do. Which is
cake, non-interference engine !!!!
So going to 100k will be ballsy. Your milage will vary....but the manaul says 60k.
And that's what the dealer will go by for warranty if it breaks before the 100k
warranty is up.
Feb 5, 2007, 08:47 PM
#38
Evolving Member
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Chicago
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'll have to agree with barney on this one. Don't let the post count fool you.
I spend more time driving and wrenchin than I do posting !!! I've had 4 turbo
Eclipse's and Talons. I've had a B-belt go at 65k, made the car jump timing one
tooth. Still drove but shaked like crazy. I've also replaced the t-belt and b-belt
but not the water pump. Only to have it fail at 100k in the summer,on a road trip,
DURING hurricane Charlie !!! I saved $100 at first, but had to get towed and redo
the t-belt install to replace the water pump !!! I've also changed my belts at 62k,
only to see no wear at all on the belts. I've only changed a tensioner once !!!
Only to have it fail 1000 miles later !!! First time I let someone work on my car !!
Bastards DID NOT change it !!! But charged me for it !!!!
I've gone 82k and seen no wear either....
My Evo now has 60k on it, but I see no cam gear leaks and no wear on the belt.
So I'll wait til about 70k to do it. I still have a T-belt on my Supra to do. Which is
cake, non-interference engine !!!!
So going to 100k will be ballsy. Your milage will vary....but the manaul says 60k.
And that's what the dealer will go by for warranty if it breaks before the 100k
warranty is up.
I spend more time driving and wrenchin than I do posting !!! I've had 4 turbo
Eclipse's and Talons. I've had a B-belt go at 65k, made the car jump timing one
tooth. Still drove but shaked like crazy. I've also replaced the t-belt and b-belt
but not the water pump. Only to have it fail at 100k in the summer,on a road trip,
DURING hurricane Charlie !!! I saved $100 at first, but had to get towed and redo
the t-belt install to replace the water pump !!! I've also changed my belts at 62k,
only to see no wear at all on the belts. I've only changed a tensioner once !!!
Only to have it fail 1000 miles later !!! First time I let someone work on my car !!
Bastards DID NOT change it !!! But charged me for it !!!!
I've gone 82k and seen no wear either....
My Evo now has 60k on it, but I see no cam gear leaks and no wear on the belt.
So I'll wait til about 70k to do it. I still have a T-belt on my Supra to do. Which is
cake, non-interference engine !!!!
So going to 100k will be ballsy. Your milage will vary....but the manaul says 60k.
And that's what the dealer will go by for warranty if it breaks before the 100k
warranty is up.
Last edited by BUCKNAKED; Feb 5, 2007 at 08:52 PM.
Feb 6, 2007, 07:04 AM
#39
Yeah well most owners manuals and dealerships will tell you not to change Auto trans fluid ever in automatic cars. But if they or the consumer had any brains they would change every 30k or so this will make MOST autos last forever. A friend owns a trans shop and has been rebuilding trannies for years, him and all his friends are driving stock 1970s-1980's pickups as winter beaters all well over 200,000 miles each and are stock motor and trans with no rebuild, all they do if fluid and occasionally filter changes. But the dealer would have loved them to blow a tranny back in the day and charge them up the butt to put a new one in at the cost of thousands of dollars.
Now that was just one example of dealers lack of knowledge and how passive they are (fix it when its broken) they dont make money on preventitive maintaince. Well I dunno in your case they made a boat load..........
Now that was just one example of dealers lack of knowledge and how passive they are (fix it when its broken) they dont make money on preventitive maintaince. Well I dunno in your case they made a boat load..........
Feb 6, 2007, 04:15 PM
#42
Evolving Member
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Chicago
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah well most owners manuals and dealerships will tell you not to change Auto trans fluid ever in automatic cars. But if they or the consumer had any brains they would change every 30k or so this will make MOST autos last forever. A friend owns a trans shop and has been rebuilding trannies for years, him and all his friends are driving stock 1970s-1980's pickups as winter beaters all well over 200,000 miles each and are stock motor and trans with no rebuild, all they do if fluid and occasionally filter changes. But the dealer would have loved them to blow a tranny back in the day and charge them up the butt to put a new one in at the cost of thousands of dollars.
Now that was just one example of dealers lack of knowledge and how passive they are (fix it when its broken) they dont make money on preventitive maintaince. Well I dunno in your case they made a boat load..........
Now that was just one example of dealers lack of knowledge and how passive they are (fix it when its broken) they dont make money on preventitive maintaince. Well I dunno in your case they made a boat load..........
Thats the problem with some of these theads. I believe your story, but did all his friends even look at their manuel, or go to the dealer? Automanufacturers are required to publish to the consumer what is do be done at every service interval. And if Parts or in this case now were moving onto fluids, they have to include the time (mileage) of it to be changed, based on many factors one being fluid breakdown. If they diden't and a motor ceased, they would have every car in production have the same problem. They don't make their money on recalls either. Common sence. Why do you think they push oil changes with greater frequency (ex. every 3k)then needed. It will obviously not hurt the car but it can also go longer before changing (5K even higher in other cars). Oil changes are the bread and butter for dealers. Once the car is up there they can push for brakes sooner than needed, turning rotors when not needed etc....My point is people can change parts EARLY, LATER, OR NEVER its there car and a free country. But people are preaching gospel and scaring others who follow Mitsubishis manuel that "personal experience" or "such and such racing shop says:" or "If you don't replace this at 60k you car will explode, not now but just wait." And then saying Mitsubishi and its Evo mechanics are wrong and actually say to replace parts at 60k when the manuel clearly states they do NOT need replacing until the 100k service interval, even if people hold onto their car for that long!
Last edited by BUCKNAKED; Feb 6, 2007 at 05:03 PM.
Feb 6, 2007, 06:11 PM
#45
Change the water pump man. It's $100-150 more. they have to take off
the T-belt to replace the water pump. Plus the labor is basically the same.
So pay $700-800 at 60k for all the belts and water pump, or listen to Buck and
wait til it goes out and pay another $500-600 to replace the water pump. Not to
mention a tow if it overheats on the hway and you don't have enough water...
or worse yet, you warp a head.
Either way, it won't last forever. So just make it a habit to change while the front
of the motor is apart. It's called preventive maintenance, not wait til it breaks
maintenance.
These cars have not been on the road here long enough to get a reliability history
on them. But judging from MY 1g and 2g DSMs,the water pumps can go anytime
after 60k. Why even chance it? The ENGINE IS APART FOR THE T-BELT ANYWAY !!!
Nobody's here is saying go by the manual. Those numbers are greatly reduced to
what they really should be. The OEM has to cover their backs. And I'm not trying
to scare you either. Just being logical about it. Don't have the dough? Wait a few
miles and save up for the water-pump. Just don't go stressing your engine after
60k and you should be fine. Get the OEM stuff from a vendor here.
Get the OEM stuff. It worked to get you here so it should be fine for another few thousand.
Plus if you get them to do it, they'll only work with OEM parts.
And in my area the Mitsu. dealer DON"T know **** !!!
I usually TELL THEM about TSBs, RECALLS, and fixes for minor quirks.
My syncros,stiff A/C controls,and CF wing fade was all covered by them
AFTER I told them about a TSB or fix for it.
Hell they did not even know what an Evo WAS in 2002 !!!
I'm speaking from experience. Are you Buck ?
7 - 90-94 Eclipses and Talons
4 - 97-99 Eclipses Still own 3
Last edited by bk.adams; Feb 6, 2007 at 06:26 PM.