Shaky boost gauge 101: Question+info for newbs and old pros
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Shaky boost gauge 101: Question+info for newbs and old pros
Let’s talk about a well worn topic: Boost gauge tap location. This is my second Evo. My first Evo had a Defi gauge installed here:
Well, I didn’t want to tap there, since that’s the rising rate fuel pressure line. I tapped my last car there and the line came off due to not using a tight enough zip tie. The result? The line blew off in full boost at WOT, leaned out the car substantially, and resulted in a hairline crack on the face of my #1 piston. There was zero damage to the rest of the engine, as we caught it early and replaced the piston with OEM Mitsu 63TE8 (uniform) pistons. Fortunately, I caught it in a high rpm miss that showed up as a wet plug. After a borescope, head pull, and tons of work labor, that car was as good as new.
That’s old news. Here’s the new news: I don’t want to tap there again with my IX! Mitsubishi taps the factory gauge at the driver’s side at the manifold at a line near the back of the valve cover. Their gauge works perfectly.
However, when I try to tap my Omori gauge there, it gets ridiculously shaky. Why can the OE gauge take that as a reference point but the Omori can’t? I don’t want to tap my boost gauge at the rising pressure regulator pictured above. I don’t care how stable it is, it is not a good place to tap a gauge for safety reasons IMO.
Have any of you tapped aftermarket Omori or Defi gauges elsewhere with good results and no shakiness? Thanks for any ideas. We use the front boost reference on the dyno with great results, but it doesn’t work well for stability on a gauge.
Well, I didn’t want to tap there, since that’s the rising rate fuel pressure line. I tapped my last car there and the line came off due to not using a tight enough zip tie. The result? The line blew off in full boost at WOT, leaned out the car substantially, and resulted in a hairline crack on the face of my #1 piston. There was zero damage to the rest of the engine, as we caught it early and replaced the piston with OEM Mitsu 63TE8 (uniform) pistons. Fortunately, I caught it in a high rpm miss that showed up as a wet plug. After a borescope, head pull, and tons of work labor, that car was as good as new.
That’s old news. Here’s the new news: I don’t want to tap there again with my IX! Mitsubishi taps the factory gauge at the driver’s side at the manifold at a line near the back of the valve cover. Their gauge works perfectly.
However, when I try to tap my Omori gauge there, it gets ridiculously shaky. Why can the OE gauge take that as a reference point but the Omori can’t? I don’t want to tap my boost gauge at the rising pressure regulator pictured above. I don’t care how stable it is, it is not a good place to tap a gauge for safety reasons IMO.
Have any of you tapped aftermarket Omori or Defi gauges elsewhere with good results and no shakiness? Thanks for any ideas. We use the front boost reference on the dyno with great results, but it doesn’t work well for stability on a gauge.
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Ummm, the one that the OP circled is not the fuel pressure regulator vac line, the one the second poster circled is. I used that line, but I used a zip tie tensioner to pull the ties tight. It looks like a gun almost that you put around the tie and squeeze, and it tightens it as much as is physically possible.
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Let’s talk about a well worn topic: Boost gauge tap location. This is my second Evo. My first Evo had a Defi gauge installed here:
That’s old news. Here’s the new news: I don’t want to tap there again with my IX! Mitsubishi taps the factory gauge at the driver’s side at the manifold at a line near the back of the valve cover. Their gauge works perfectly.
That’s old news. Here’s the new news: I don’t want to tap there again with my IX! Mitsubishi taps the factory gauge at the driver’s side at the manifold at a line near the back of the valve cover. Their gauge works perfectly.
no my factory boost gauge was tap in to the same spot in the picture. the factory one came with t fitting and 3 hose clamps that's why it neve blow off.
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thats where I tapped my gauge vacuum in the picture with the yellow circle. My gauge is pretty good believeable accuracy. It noticed my boost controller and holds boost at 18/19 psi.
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pull the line circled in yellow completley off...and take the end of the one circled in red that goes into the back of the manifold and connect it to to where the yellow on went into the manifold....just keep those other 2 ports open...thats how i ran mine and several other evos in the arera.....