What is wrong with my car? (boost cut, fuel cut, random misfire 0300?)
Apr 13, 2007, 08:03 PM
#31
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just my .02 it sounds like you are tring to do things as cheap as possible, which is a big no no with these cars. With the Evo you really get what you pay for. Stop listening to you're friends (Get an intake, get a blow off valve Blah blah blah) Listen to warr and you'll be fine, that is what I'm doing... my next mods are going to be a buschur filter, boost controller, dynotune by Al (finish off stage one) then buschur stage 2. Also I've never had a problem with my car because I searched and found my answers, Next time search!!!
Apr 14, 2007, 07:43 PM
#34
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just my .02 it sounds like you are tring to do things as cheap as possible, which is a big no no with these cars. With the Evo you really get what you pay for. Stop listening to you're friends (Get an intake, get a blow off valve Blah blah blah) Listen to warr and you'll be fine, that is what I'm doing... my next mods are going to be a buschur filter, boost controller, dynotune by Al (finish off stage one) then buschur stage 2. Also I've never had a problem with my car because I searched and found my answers, Next time search!!!
Apr 15, 2007, 10:19 PM
#35
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i actually have the same problem.. i took off my aftermarket cone filter, put on the stock airbox and reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery. the problem didnt get fixed, but it does seem a little better i think. it doesnt happen as much. i was driving the highway and once i started to hit boost.... the ses light came back on. i dont know,,, this sucks. help guys. i think Al is coming to town in May and i might wait until he gets here to tune me. i dont know..
Apr 16, 2007, 04:47 AM
#36
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i actually have the same problem.. i took off my aftermarket cone filter, put on the stock airbox and reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery. the problem didnt get fixed, but it does seem a little better i think. it doesnt happen as much. i was driving the highway and once i started to hit boost.... the ses light came back on. i dont know,,, this sucks. help guys. i think Al is coming to town in May and i might wait until he gets here to tune me. i dont know..
Apr 16, 2007, 04:21 PM
#37
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RunEvo, I have the EXACT same problem as you, right down to the last detail of when it happens. I think that some of the advice about what to do, and the "do your research" comments don't apply.... Researching didn't help me one bit. I found other people with the same problem, but no solutions.
First off, a tune didn't fix my problem. I'm back to stock now, but a custom tune did not solve the problem for me!
Second, I've searched and read every thread that has been written about this topic, I've spent the last 2 months doing it to no avail.
Third. I've tried every plug type and gapping, in the stock heat range, known to man. I'm interested why some people reccomend a colder plug when I'm not pushing that much power on a stock turbo.
I've had the injectors cleaned and fuel system flushed, Checked for boost leaks, Checked the EGR, vacuum lines, and looked for exhaust leaks. I'm interested in hearing if anyone here has experienced ignition coil failure or bad plug wires, and if it was anything like what RunEvo and I are experiencing? I'm totally stumped.
My mods:
272 Cams
TBE
Injen Cone Filter
XS FMIC
Twin Disc Clutch
Fuel Pump
03 EVO with 43k
Please, any good advice is welcomed. I'm not a noob to DSM/EVO's but I've never experienced anthing like this before.
Here's another thread with similar problems being discussed, but no solution:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=261958
First off, a tune didn't fix my problem. I'm back to stock now, but a custom tune did not solve the problem for me!
Second, I've searched and read every thread that has been written about this topic, I've spent the last 2 months doing it to no avail.
Third. I've tried every plug type and gapping, in the stock heat range, known to man. I'm interested why some people reccomend a colder plug when I'm not pushing that much power on a stock turbo.
I've had the injectors cleaned and fuel system flushed, Checked for boost leaks, Checked the EGR, vacuum lines, and looked for exhaust leaks. I'm interested in hearing if anyone here has experienced ignition coil failure or bad plug wires, and if it was anything like what RunEvo and I are experiencing? I'm totally stumped.
My mods:
272 Cams
TBE
Injen Cone Filter
XS FMIC
Twin Disc Clutch
Fuel Pump
03 EVO with 43k
Please, any good advice is welcomed. I'm not a noob to DSM/EVO's but I've never experienced anthing like this before.
Here's another thread with similar problems being discussed, but no solution:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=261958
May 9, 2007, 09:32 AM
#38
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2) 2nd problem happens 5 times out of 10, when I am accelerating/cruising with 30% - 50% throttle, the car would all of the sudden hesitate and become sluggish. This occurs when the rpm is between 3,000 rpm ~5,000 rpm. During that is happening I can still hear the turbo spooling if I press down the pedal a little, but I do not feel the boost kicking in, and the car would accelerate like a corolla would. When this is happening, the exhaust sounds pretty rough (similar to how STI sounds like) and I can feel the uneven vibration from the engine into the cabin. If I release the throttle and reapply the gas pedal, this problem would go away for awhile and come back randomly in few seconds, few min, or few hrs. This is really annoying because even when I am just cruising down the freeway on my 5th gear, the car would all of the sudden hesitate and make this weird unpleasant noise from the exhaust (not that loud, it just sounds rough)
I have been having this problem as well. But I don't throw the SES/p3 code at all. It is just weird how it doesnt happen all the time (but happens more times than not) I am in the process of trying to eleminate problems that could be wrong.
May 9, 2007, 04:26 PM
#39
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You, My Friend, are Knocking, you need to use 91 or better. 93 when possible. no octane boost or aditives. If you have a boost controler tune it to 21 psi for 91 octane and 23 for 93. Get the ECU tuned on a DYNO pay a little more but you get about 20-50 hp more. Ohh BTW loose the maf hard pipe if you have one, it screws the airflow up. Ask warrtalon. If you do have 91 octane in your tank then you are getting oil into the combustion chamber, Oil will lower the octane rating of gasoline. So I am like 100% postive that you are knocking, or detonating. Or whatever you wanna call it.
Jul 17, 2010, 06:27 AM
#41
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Hate to bring back the dead but I was curious if anyone had solved this problem? Was it tuning related or something else.
I have a 03 Evo VIII with a smiliar issue. While cruising betweed 2800 - 3400 RPM the car will "break up" or miss, if i let off the gas and get back on it it will clear up. This might happen 20 times during a 10 minute drive or not at all during a 2hr drive. Some days it will run perfect all day long then the next it is doing it constantly and will sometimes stop just as quick as it started.
I cannot provide logs but while watching my Wideband O2 at cruise I am reading between 11.4 - 11.8 AFR when the car starts to break up I go LEAN at 12.5 AFR. Under WOT and Boost it does not do this at all. The car will pull to redline with no problems other than I am running RICH under boost. EGT's stay normal.
I have changed plugs (NGK BPR7ES @ .026), wires (magnecore) and coils.
Mod list: AEM Intake, 3" Turbo Back Exhaust, ETS Upper and Lower IC Pipes, Tial BOV, Turbo XS Boost Controller set at 18psi.
OH and before anyone starts smashing on not tuning, I bought the car this way (other than IC pipes, BOV and i swapped out 2.5" dp for 3") The car started doing this about a month after I bought it and BEFORE I had changed IC pipes, BOV and DP.
I have a 03 Evo VIII with a smiliar issue. While cruising betweed 2800 - 3400 RPM the car will "break up" or miss, if i let off the gas and get back on it it will clear up. This might happen 20 times during a 10 minute drive or not at all during a 2hr drive. Some days it will run perfect all day long then the next it is doing it constantly and will sometimes stop just as quick as it started.
I cannot provide logs but while watching my Wideband O2 at cruise I am reading between 11.4 - 11.8 AFR when the car starts to break up I go LEAN at 12.5 AFR. Under WOT and Boost it does not do this at all. The car will pull to redline with no problems other than I am running RICH under boost. EGT's stay normal.
I have changed plugs (NGK BPR7ES @ .026), wires (magnecore) and coils.
Mod list: AEM Intake, 3" Turbo Back Exhaust, ETS Upper and Lower IC Pipes, Tial BOV, Turbo XS Boost Controller set at 18psi.
OH and before anyone starts smashing on not tuning, I bought the car this way (other than IC pipes, BOV and i swapped out 2.5" dp for 3") The car started doing this about a month after I bought it and BEFORE I had changed IC pipes, BOV and DP.
Jul 17, 2010, 07:01 AM
#42
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You are probably hitting boost cut. Stock ish values are ~245 load in the area you are having trouble with. Since you have an intake on the car, it is most definitely affecting the MAF readings making you richer than you need to be and triggering boost cut. If your TIAL is VTA, go back to a diverter setup. Venting to atmosphere on a MAF car is not a good idea, you are losing a fraction of metered air when the BOV operates making your car run rich. It is wreaking havoc on your fuel trims affecting driveability.
At your boost level I am sure your plugs are working fine and are not "blowing out" the spark.
I would suggest:
1. Get a stock airbox and intake pipe or find a known intake that does not affect the MAF too much (I think buschur makes one).
2. Ditch the VTA and go with a diverter setup. Get a diverter off an MR or get a WORKS diverter.
3. Tune it. Dont do mail in's. Work with some tuners on here that work with logs or go somewhere to dyno tune it.
At your boost level I am sure your plugs are working fine and are not "blowing out" the spark.
I would suggest:
1. Get a stock airbox and intake pipe or find a known intake that does not affect the MAF too much (I think buschur makes one).
2. Ditch the VTA and go with a diverter setup. Get a diverter off an MR or get a WORKS diverter.
3. Tune it. Dont do mail in's. Work with some tuners on here that work with logs or go somewhere to dyno tune it.
Jul 17, 2010, 07:07 AM
#43
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Oh yeah, I forgot, you can ditch the boost controller too once you have it tuned. Control boost through the ECU.
I believe the tuner can get ~21psi out of the stock "boost pill" by maxing out Waste Gate Duty Cycle in the ECU.
Go sell all that stuff and make some money for a nice tune. Your car will thank you for it.
EDIT: KEEP THE IC PIPES AND 3" TBE
I believe the tuner can get ~21psi out of the stock "boost pill" by maxing out Waste Gate Duty Cycle in the ECU.
Go sell all that stuff and make some money for a nice tune. Your car will thank you for it.
EDIT: KEEP THE IC PIPES AND 3" TBE
Last edited by thermaldynamics; Jul 17, 2010 at 07:10 AM. Reason: Its too early in the morning and I am forgetful
Jul 17, 2010, 12:41 PM
#44
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You are probably hitting boost cut. Stock ish values are ~245 load in the area you are having trouble with. Since you have an intake on the car, it is most definitely affecting the MAF readings making you richer than you need to be and triggering boost cut. If your TIAL is VTA, go back to a diverter setup. Venting to atmosphere on a MAF car is not a good idea, you are losing a fraction of metered air when the BOV operates making your car run rich. It is wreaking havoc on your fuel trims affecting driveability.
At your boost level I am sure your plugs are working fine and are not "blowing out" the spark.
I would suggest:
1. Get a stock airbox and intake pipe or find a known intake that does not affect the MAF too much (I think buschur makes one).
2. Ditch the VTA and go with a diverter setup. Get a diverter off an MR or get a WORKS diverter.
3. Tune it. Dont do mail in's. Work with some tuners on here that work with logs or go somewhere to dyno tune it.
At your boost level I am sure your plugs are working fine and are not "blowing out" the spark.
I would suggest:
1. Get a stock airbox and intake pipe or find a known intake that does not affect the MAF too much (I think buschur makes one).
2. Ditch the VTA and go with a diverter setup. Get a diverter off an MR or get a WORKS diverter.
3. Tune it. Dont do mail in's. Work with some tuners on here that work with logs or go somewhere to dyno tune it.
I am willing to try anything at this point and if someone has a stock intake they would be willing to let me borrow that would be great!
Jul 18, 2010, 09:27 AM
#45
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I am not VTA as I have the Tial that recircs back to the intake. I know from running DSM's that VTA is not liked by the ecu's. I also do not see how an intake can mess up the maf signal that badly. Not saying it's not the case but I would like some explanation on this. If the metered air is coming into the maf how how does the piping after it affect the signal? Again i am not arguing that this might be the problem just looking for an answer.. I am willing to try anything at this point and if someone has a stock intake they would be willing to let me borrow that would be great!
I am willing to try anything at this point and if someone has a stock intake they would be willing to let me borrow that would be great!Okay, after doing some more searching on the forums (after being told intake is most likely the issue) I do see several post about needing a tune after installing an intake. I can see the "cone" filter causing an issue just not seeing how intake pipe can cause issue. I will be getting the Tactrix Openport as well as EvoScan and EcuFlash quickly. I also see that alot of people recommend the Jester flash so I might be looking into that as well.
Thanks again and I will keep this post updated to see if that fixes the issue.
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