Boost Gauge inconsistency
Apr 9, 2007, 07:19 AM
#16
go get a good boost gauge
most boost gauges arent even that accurate
...you USUALLY get what you pay for
go get a electronic boost gauge, they're more accurate
better yet, get a EBC with that and you'll be pretty damn sure you're running the boost you set it at (unless you messed up on the install. lol)
most boost gauges arent even that accurate
...you USUALLY get what you pay for
go get a electronic boost gauge, they're more accurate
better yet, get a EBC with that and you'll be pretty damn sure you're running the boost you set it at (unless you messed up on the install. lol)
Apr 9, 2007, 07:56 AM
#17
Evolved Member
mmmmm kkkkk 
Let me guess only way is to get a defi or some over priced p.o.s that still isnt going to ever be 100% accurate?
Only way to truly know what boost your running is through logging a map sensor, other than than there will always be inconsistancy between gauges no matter what brand, price etc....
Let me guess only way is to get a defi or some over priced p.o.s that still isnt going to ever be 100% accurate?
Only way to truly know what boost your running is through logging a map sensor, other than than there will always be inconsistancy between gauges no matter what brand, price etc....
I've got Automter's in my car (freebies) but, I made sure to check them for accuracy before I installed them. I know most people can't do this but, it's a luxury I have at work. You do realize it's part of my job to dealing with this stuff right? I generally go through and check calibration on about a 75-100 sets of gauges a year. (water temp, oil temp, water pressure, oil pressure, fuel pressure, volts, and tach and no not for my car
)
Apr 9, 2007, 12:05 PM
#18
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Thanks for the help guys. I've settled on the AM gauge putzing out.
I went and adjusted the boost controller this morning before going in to work. I peaked 1.4 bar according to the OEM gauge and the AM was reading 17ish, so it's reading low.
I stopped in a parking lot and turned it down just a smidge and hit 1.3 bar on the next runs in 4th, 5th, and 6th. Looking at Google's calculator, 1.4 bar is closer to stock boost than 1.3
1.3 bar = 18.8549059 pounds per square inch
1.4 bar = 20.3052833 pounds per square inch
So I'll adjust it up a smidge when I leave work today.
By the way, this was all done on local highways with 50mph and 60mph limits, so I'm not endangering anything
When I have time, I'll give that capillary tube a good looking at and see if I can find cracks or anything. If I don't find any problems with that, I'll probably just remove the gauge entirely.
I'm just thankful that I didn't remove the OEM gauges. If I had tried to dial in using the inaccurate AM gauge....well, some things are better left unsaid.
I went and adjusted the boost controller this morning before going in to work. I peaked 1.4 bar according to the OEM gauge and the AM was reading 17ish, so it's reading low.
I stopped in a parking lot and turned it down just a smidge and hit 1.3 bar on the next runs in 4th, 5th, and 6th. Looking at Google's calculator, 1.4 bar is closer to stock boost than 1.3
1.3 bar = 18.8549059 pounds per square inch
1.4 bar = 20.3052833 pounds per square inch
So I'll adjust it up a smidge when I leave work today.
By the way, this was all done on local highways with 50mph and 60mph limits, so I'm not endangering anything
When I have time, I'll give that capillary tube a good looking at and see if I can find cracks or anything. If I don't find any problems with that, I'll probably just remove the gauge entirely.
I'm just thankful that I didn't remove the OEM gauges. If I had tried to dial in using the inaccurate AM gauge....well, some things are better left unsaid.