Boost Gauge inconsistency
Apr 8, 2007, 03:50 PM
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Boost Gauge inconsistency
A few months back I had the BR Stage 1 installed at a local shop. Everything was super. I have, since then, been unable to find 3 days I could take away from running the business to send out the ECU for a flash.
Fast forward to a couple of days ago and, for reasons I an unable to understand, the Autometer SportComp boost gauge that comes with the kit is only reading approx. 15psi at full boost.
The OEM Boost Gauge reads 1.3 bar at the same time, which (according to Google's little calculator) translates to approx. 20psi. Idle for both reads similar.
When out of the shop getting things installed, the AM gauge read 20psi and tapered accordingly, and the OEM gauge was spiking 1.5 bar
They have done so until the weather started getting warmer. I figured it may have been an issue with the boost controller, however upon adjusting it up, I noticed no difference in readings.
Although, it may have been not enough rotation, since it doesn't have ticks. If anyone has BR's boost controller could chime in with your methods of adjustment.
So one immediate question:
Are Google's calculations/gauge readings accurate to the point where a problem is shown, or am I hallucinating an issue?
Now, I have had a virtually constant tiff with the lines between these 2 gauges.
The line for the Autometer gauge is a very thing plastic-ish tube. The line for the OEM boost guage is rubber hose. There is a T-fitting in the engine bay where the AM line has popped out on occassion.
I have remedied this with a good half pound of black electrical tape, since just a simple wrap-around wasn't a permanent solution.
That said, I don't think the problem, if it isn't just the Autometer gauge, resides in this fitting. I'm under the impression that if it was, the boost readings wouldn't be as steady, if there were any readings at all.
I've checked all of the intercooler piping/hoses and saw nothing blatant. There are no odd sounds under boost, no odd sounds when driving, no odd sounds when idle.
I have no materials to perform a leak test, and being that it's Easter, I won't be able to get them today, but through searching, that was the only method listed that could possibly relate to this problem.
So to recap..
My Autometer Gauge reads 15psi max boost.
My OEM boost gauge reads 1.3 bar max boost, which equates to 20psi according to Google's calculator.
No blatant audible or visual problems. MBC doesn't seem to change the output on either Gauge.
Unsure of how much rotation is required on the BR MBC
I'm sorry about the long thread, just trying to include as much information as possible.
Fast forward to a couple of days ago and, for reasons I an unable to understand, the Autometer SportComp boost gauge that comes with the kit is only reading approx. 15psi at full boost.
The OEM Boost Gauge reads 1.3 bar at the same time, which (according to Google's little calculator) translates to approx. 20psi. Idle for both reads similar.
When out of the shop getting things installed, the AM gauge read 20psi and tapered accordingly, and the OEM gauge was spiking 1.5 bar
They have done so until the weather started getting warmer. I figured it may have been an issue with the boost controller, however upon adjusting it up, I noticed no difference in readings.
Although, it may have been not enough rotation, since it doesn't have ticks. If anyone has BR's boost controller could chime in with your methods of adjustment.
So one immediate question:
Are Google's calculations/gauge readings accurate to the point where a problem is shown, or am I hallucinating an issue?
Now, I have had a virtually constant tiff with the lines between these 2 gauges.
The line for the Autometer gauge is a very thing plastic-ish tube. The line for the OEM boost guage is rubber hose. There is a T-fitting in the engine bay where the AM line has popped out on occassion.
I have remedied this with a good half pound of black electrical tape, since just a simple wrap-around wasn't a permanent solution.
That said, I don't think the problem, if it isn't just the Autometer gauge, resides in this fitting. I'm under the impression that if it was, the boost readings wouldn't be as steady, if there were any readings at all.
I've checked all of the intercooler piping/hoses and saw nothing blatant. There are no odd sounds under boost, no odd sounds when driving, no odd sounds when idle.
I have no materials to perform a leak test, and being that it's Easter, I won't be able to get them today, but through searching, that was the only method listed that could possibly relate to this problem.
So to recap..
My Autometer Gauge reads 15psi max boost.
My OEM boost gauge reads 1.3 bar max boost, which equates to 20psi according to Google's calculator.
No blatant audible or visual problems. MBC doesn't seem to change the output on either Gauge.
Unsure of how much rotation is required on the BR MBC
I'm sorry about the long thread, just trying to include as much information as possible.
Apr 8, 2007, 04:31 PM
#3
my first autometer gauge from the package took a crap and started reading like 14 psi but i did a boost leak check and it turns out the gauge was just messed up. I got a new one no problem from autometer for free and it's been working great ever since.
Apr 8, 2007, 04:35 PM
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As far as the Autometer boost gauge I don't know about that because I already had the SW boost gauge installed when I put on the BR Stage I kit. After installing the BR MBC I took it out to dial in the boost I wanted. I forgot how many turns it took me to get it to 22 psi. All I can say is just take it out and turn it in half turn increments and see what direction the gauge goes.
Apr 8, 2007, 04:44 PM
#6
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If your AM boost gauge was made with in the last 2 years there is a very real chance it's junk.
It's a little hard to read but, I'm gathering the gauges are not spliced in at the same point. The capillary tube the AM gauge comes with will crack pretty easily. It could be leaking causing the gauge to read inaccurately. This is where I would start.
Is the Autometer gauge electric or mechanical? Mine is electric and I was having a problem with it being very inconsistent. The problem I had was where I was drawing power for it. It would cycle power while cranking the engine. The gauge would then recalibrate while the engine was running (in vacuum) and throw off the reading. I don't think that is your problem though if it was reading accurately before.
It's a little hard to read but, I'm gathering the gauges are not spliced in at the same point. The capillary tube the AM gauge comes with will crack pretty easily. It could be leaking causing the gauge to read inaccurately. This is where I would start.
Is the Autometer gauge electric or mechanical? Mine is electric and I was having a problem with it being very inconsistent. The problem I had was where I was drawing power for it. It would cycle power while cranking the engine. The gauge would then recalibrate while the engine was running (in vacuum) and throw off the reading. I don't think that is your problem though if it was reading accurately before.
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Apr 8, 2007, 05:22 PM
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I stopped using AutoMeter gauges back in 2001 after a nasty situation that involved a kick *** mutt, a Turbonetics DeltaGate, a manual boost controler, and an AWD 1Gen. I had to learn the hard way that cheap gauges are that way for a reason.
Apr 8, 2007, 07:38 PM
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Sorry about the coherency issues. English is my first language, I just wanted to give enough info that a proper solution could be found.
The AM gauge is spliced in about 6 inches from the intake manifold into the OEM gauge hose with a T-fitting. I can get a picture if that'll help. I had to wrap the entire intersection with electrical tape, as the pressure would eject the capillary tube like nothing at all.
Now, if the line for the AM gauge was cracked, would it even register? When the capillary line was ejected before I taped it, neither gauge would have a reading (Both were 0).
Before I made the original post and before leaving, I did a once-over of the easily reachable clamps and loosened/adjusted/re-tightened them, as well as turned the MBC back the other way, after my initial increases showed nothing.
Then I did a few more WOT runs and the AM gauge is showing 17psi, while the OEM gauge is at 1.2 bar. It doesn't quite match up, as 17psi is ~1.17 bar
edit: runs were in 4th, 5th, and 6th. No difference between them.
So, even though I turned the MBC back down, the PSI reading on the AM went up 1psi and the reading on the OEM went down .1 bar. This is psychotic
It's a little hard to read but, I'm gathering the gauges are not spliced in at the same point. The capillary tube the AM gauge comes with will crack pretty easily. It could be leaking causing the gauge to read inaccurately. This is where I would start.
Now, if the line for the AM gauge was cracked, would it even register? When the capillary line was ejected before I taped it, neither gauge would have a reading (Both were 0).
Before I made the original post and before leaving, I did a once-over of the easily reachable clamps and loosened/adjusted/re-tightened them, as well as turned the MBC back the other way, after my initial increases showed nothing.
Then I did a few more WOT runs and the AM gauge is showing 17psi, while the OEM gauge is at 1.2 bar. It doesn't quite match up, as 17psi is ~1.17 bar
edit: runs were in 4th, 5th, and 6th. No difference between them.
So, even though I turned the MBC back down, the PSI reading on the AM went up 1psi and the reading on the OEM went down .1 bar. This is psychotic
Apr 9, 2007, 06:10 AM
#13
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Sorry about the coherency issues. English is my first language, I just wanted to give enough info that a proper solution could be found.
The AM gauge is spliced in about 6 inches from the intake manifold into the OEM gauge hose with a T-fitting. I can get a picture if that'll help. I had to wrap the entire intersection with electrical tape, as the pressure would eject the capillary tube like nothing at all.
Now, if the line for the AM gauge was cracked, would it even register? When the capillary line was ejected before I taped it, neither gauge would have a reading (Both were 0).
Before I made the original post and before leaving, I did a once-over of the easily reachable clamps and loosened/adjusted/re-tightened them, as well as turned the MBC back the other way, after my initial increases showed nothing.
Then I did a few more WOT runs and the AM gauge is showing 17psi, while the OEM gauge is at 1.2 bar. It doesn't quite match up, as 17psi is ~1.17 bar
edit: runs were in 4th, 5th, and 6th. No difference between them.
So, even though I turned the MBC back down, the PSI reading on the AM went up 1psi and the reading on the OEM went down .1 bar. This is psychotic
The AM gauge is spliced in about 6 inches from the intake manifold into the OEM gauge hose with a T-fitting. I can get a picture if that'll help. I had to wrap the entire intersection with electrical tape, as the pressure would eject the capillary tube like nothing at all.
Now, if the line for the AM gauge was cracked, would it even register? When the capillary line was ejected before I taped it, neither gauge would have a reading (Both were 0).
Before I made the original post and before leaving, I did a once-over of the easily reachable clamps and loosened/adjusted/re-tightened them, as well as turned the MBC back the other way, after my initial increases showed nothing.
Then I did a few more WOT runs and the AM gauge is showing 17psi, while the OEM gauge is at 1.2 bar. It doesn't quite match up, as 17psi is ~1.17 bar
edit: runs were in 4th, 5th, and 6th. No difference between them.
So, even though I turned the MBC back down, the PSI reading on the AM went up 1psi and the reading on the OEM went down .1 bar. This is psychotic
Apr 9, 2007, 07:16 AM
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mmmmm kkkkk 
Let me guess only way is to get a defi or some over priced p.o.s that still isnt going to ever be 100% accurate?
Only way to truly know what boost your running is through logging a map sensor, other than than there will always be inconsistancy between gauges no matter what brand, price etc....
Let me guess only way is to get a defi or some over priced p.o.s that still isnt going to ever be 100% accurate?
Only way to truly know what boost your running is through logging a map sensor, other than than there will always be inconsistancy between gauges no matter what brand, price etc....
Last edited by travman; Apr 9, 2007 at 07:21 AM.