Serious sputtering, wanting to shut off, very jumpy HELP!!!
Jun 9, 2007, 07:19 AM
#20
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No I havent removed it. I know I dont have an NSX lol but how do you know my coild are corroded LOL neither do I am just saying LOL
No I havent replaced....I am in the process of moving so no real time i guess...
Both my sensors are still in
No I havent replaced....I am in the process of moving so no real time i guess...
Both my sensors are still in
Last edited by DrivenToThrill; Jun 9, 2007 at 07:55 AM.
Jun 10, 2007, 01:47 PM
#24
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dude if 20 people tell you something and you still dont listen hopefully your car blows the hell up, on a side note AFC is garbage for evos opensource ecuflashing is way better than that and its free not 250$ or whatever an afc goes for these days, second 02 sensors dont just go bad unless u stay using leaded race gas and thats not for a while, 3rd check all your wires on the afc because they might have gotten loose if not soldered into place, 4th get rid of the vta bov because although it may sound cool the evo came with a recicrculating one for a reason when you dump the air to atmosphere the ecu doesnt know that and still dumps fuel into your engine with a flash you can lower that a lil bit but unles syour running aem no need to vent to atmoshpere, the plugs get fouled and that would be why your car runs like doo doo
go to pep boys, advanced auto parts or any other auto parts store and tell them to order you a set of NGK BPR8ES spark plugs swap them in and the car should be fine for a lil bit but it will most likely foul the plugs out again
go to pep boys, advanced auto parts or any other auto parts store and tell them to order you a set of NGK BPR8ES spark plugs swap them in and the car should be fine for a lil bit but it will most likely foul the plugs out again
Jun 10, 2007, 11:35 PM
#27
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just a sugestion but if an OBDII scanner says your 02 sensor is bad I would try changing that. I was running a VTA BOV for a while and went through alot of sparkplugs and a front 02 sensor as well. not telling you to get rid of BOV but a re-circulation kit would probably be wise.
Jun 11, 2007, 01:58 AM
#28
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Piggybacks are GARBAGE. Plain and simple. Get a standalone or get your factory ECU rom tuned.
On your SAFC. Did you make sure to set the settings correctly? Is it on MAF and not under speed density or something other than MAF?
Eitherways, please stop being so damn defensive. If you're going to post for help on EvoM, be prepared to actually DO what other people are suggesting you to do.
On your SAFC. Did you make sure to set the settings correctly? Is it on MAF and not under speed density or something other than MAF?
Eitherways, please stop being so damn defensive. If you're going to post for help on EvoM, be prepared to actually DO what other people are suggesting you to do.
Jun 11, 2007, 04:30 AM
#29
Ok i just got done with getting my SAFC-II installed and tuned for the mods I have: which are
Turboxs cat back
megan manifold
megan o2 housing
10.5 hotside
injen hard pipe/intake
SAFC-II
MBC hallman
Blitz VTA bov
ACT 2900 clutch/flywheel
My problem now:
When I start up the car it idles fine, but when i give it gas it very hesistant to rev up. When I pull off its very rough rev, wants to shut off, doesnt want to go without sputtering or acting of shutting off. If I keep it above 3k for about two gears it will eventually kick in(and you can feel it pop) and rev up fine. At this point only sometimes it revs up rough, I guess the best way I can explain it is: Not very responsive, takes more pedal to get the rpm's up. I asked John and he can't really think of anything that it may be, My car is saying my front o2 sensor is out. Here's the print of the reading i got
Thanks for anyones help in aiding me with fixing my dilema.
Turboxs cat back
megan manifold
megan o2 housing
10.5 hotside
injen hard pipe/intake
SAFC-II
MBC hallman
Blitz VTA bov
ACT 2900 clutch/flywheel
My problem now:
When I start up the car it idles fine, but when i give it gas it very hesistant to rev up. When I pull off its very rough rev, wants to shut off, doesnt want to go without sputtering or acting of shutting off. If I keep it above 3k for about two gears it will eventually kick in(and you can feel it pop) and rev up fine. At this point only sometimes it revs up rough, I guess the best way I can explain it is: Not very responsive, takes more pedal to get the rpm's up. I asked John and he can't really think of anything that it may be, My car is saying my front o2 sensor is out. Here's the print of the reading i got
Thanks for anyones help in aiding me with fixing my dilema.
I hilighted your problems in Bold. First the VTA is most likely part of your poor throttle response problem. And Second SAFC is just stupid to have on an evo because you can get a custom tune with the stock ECU. More than likely you tried to install the SAFC yourself, or you gave it to a grease monkey and the did a botched job. So first things first Remove the BOV and put it in the trash or ebay, and remove the SAFC and see if you car runs better. And did you check the data to see how the O2 Sensor is reading, because what a SAFC does is intercept incomiong information and the injector pulses and it falsifies them so that the ecu will incorrectly compensate and enrich or lean the system depending on whats needed acording to the AFC. So if you tune the AFC poorly you can end up with bad run or no start situations. Or if the AFC is improperly installed you can also end up with a problem. Since you don't need a AFC just take it out and put the ECU wiring back to stock. And you BOV can cause a Sort of air leak because its VTA, so whenever the valve is open (Vacuum is present) you have an air leak. Also if removing those Items doesn't work check the wiring to the Front O2 sensor. If the wiring between the fron O2 and ECU is good, and the AFC is no longer installed, you might need an O2 sensor. After you get this straightened out and get a custom flash and loose the BOV you will see that your car will be much faster.
Jun 11, 2007, 04:41 AM
#30
just a sugestion but if an OBDII scanner says your 02 sensor is bad I would try changing that. I was running a VTA BOV for a while and went through alot of sparkplugs and a front 02 sensor as well. not telling you to get rid of BOV but a re-circulation kit would probably be wise.
The code isn't what makes scanning you car easier to fix. OBDII codes are alsmost worthless, his says circuit, so you check the datastream and the wiring then you replace the sensor. But it doesn't mean that this is why his car is running bad. But thats why AZ scans your car for free because they can pull a code tell you this is broke you buy the part get it installed then it still doesn't work then you have to pay 75-100 dollars for a REAL technician to find the problem and then you have to pay for parts and labor again. So Just skip the AZ and head to a good reputable repair shop and not a jiffy lube. But when you read a code, that means there is a problem i that area not that the O2 sensor is bad, although it is possible that the o2 sensor may be bad.
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