Serious sputtering, wanting to shut off, very jumpy HELP!!!
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Serious sputtering, wanting to shut off, very jumpy HELP!!!
Ok i just got done with getting my SAFC-II installed and tuned for the mods I have: which are
Turboxs cat back
megan manifold
megan o2 housing
10.5 hotside
injen hard pipe/intake
SAFC-II
MBC hallman
Blitz VTA bov
ACT 2900 clutch/flywheel
My problem now:
When I start up the car it idles fine, but when i give it gas it very hesistant to rev up. When I pull off its very rough rev, wants to shut off, doesnt want to go without sputtering or acting of shutting off. If I keep it above 3k for about two gears it will eventually kick in(and you can feel it pop) and rev up fine. At this point only sometimes it revs up rough, I guess the best way I can explain it is: Not very responsive, takes more pedal to get the rpm's up. I asked John and he can't really think of anything that it may be, My car is saying my front o2 sensor is out. Here's the print of the reading i got
Thanks for anyones help in aiding me with fixing my dilema.
Turboxs cat back
megan manifold
megan o2 housing
10.5 hotside
injen hard pipe/intake
SAFC-II
MBC hallman
Blitz VTA bov
ACT 2900 clutch/flywheel
My problem now:
When I start up the car it idles fine, but when i give it gas it very hesistant to rev up. When I pull off its very rough rev, wants to shut off, doesnt want to go without sputtering or acting of shutting off. If I keep it above 3k for about two gears it will eventually kick in(and you can feel it pop) and rev up fine. At this point only sometimes it revs up rough, I guess the best way I can explain it is: Not very responsive, takes more pedal to get the rpm's up. I asked John and he can't really think of anything that it may be, My car is saying my front o2 sensor is out. Here's the print of the reading i got
Thanks for anyones help in aiding me with fixing my dilema.
#3
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1) Check for an IC pipe coming loose somewhere in the IC system.
2) Check MAF plug to ensure it is fully seated
3) Remove VTA BOV, sell it, and install a proper BOV
4) Uninstall SAFC, sell it, and get a custom flash (please please say you didn't pay someone to tune the SAFC)
5) Enjoy your faster, smoother, non-ricer sounding Evo
You said the SAFC already got tuned, so I assume everything worked fine during the tuning? Were the wires clipped and tied or soldered? If there's a bad connection in your MAF sensor wire for the SAFC/harness, it could cause problems.
2) Check MAF plug to ensure it is fully seated
3) Remove VTA BOV, sell it, and install a proper BOV
4) Uninstall SAFC, sell it, and get a custom flash (please please say you didn't pay someone to tune the SAFC)
5) Enjoy your faster, smoother, non-ricer sounding Evo
You said the SAFC already got tuned, so I assume everything worked fine during the tuning? Were the wires clipped and tied or soldered? If there's a bad connection in your MAF sensor wire for the SAFC/harness, it could cause problems.
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Ok well thanks but I have Jester telling me that my evo is setup right, and well he in fact said that this BOV is a nice bov. I do not have a ricer evo, and no i did not pay for it to be tuned thank you....I will not remove what I have if you can not help me without me selling my things than I am sorry you cant help thanks again. I will check the first couple suggestions. any one else have anything?
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Ok well thanks but I have Jester telling me that my evo is setup right, and well he in fact said that this BOV is a nice bov. I do not have a ricer evo, and no i did not pay for it to be tuned thank you....I will not remove what I have if you can not help me without me selling my things than I am sorry you cant help thanks again. I will check the first couple suggestions. any one else have anything?
My advice to you is to do exactly what warrtalon told you to do. He is right. Take off you ricer BOV and what were you thinking getting a SAFC, throw it in the garage with your useless BOV and get a flash.
Ok now call me a jerk and in a couple of days when you figure out Warrtalon and I were right you can thank us then. Have a good night.
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Ok well thanks for everyones help, but im not selling or taking anything off. Just because you dont preffer it doesnt mean eveyone doesn't. I run just fine on the VTA no probs there, I had Jester tune my SAFC with his wideband so I will call him then. I have unhooked the SaFC and it did the same thing. I will check plugs tomorrow. I dont want this thread to go into a debate thread about what mods are good or not, I asked for help, not for mod assit. The car was running fine when John tuned it, it was the next morning when I started it up that it started fouling up. I see a lot of people run semilar mods as me and they dont have probs. When I get done moving I will purchase a wideband and do my own datalogging. But right now I will try to seek help on this prob I have. I am sure if I was running something that didnt seem right that John would have told me. So again I dont think what I have right now is causing my prob, so therefor I am not removing.
Last edited by DrivenToThrill; Jun 8, 2007 at 09:06 PM.
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i have alot of experience w/ safc2 w/ my supra..... everyone is right, AFC is like using old technology when new tech is clearly superior but it can make decent power if configured and tuned right.
the VTA can be semi compensated with the SAFC2 settings but still, u shouldnt be running it in your evo.
also check the settings, theres various config like number of cylinders, you can pick MAF/MAS etc etc.... make sure u get those right or ur car will run like crap. also u have to get the RPM tapped and tapped nicely or it will run like crap. also safc2 requires two grounds, if you did not follow direction precisely, it may run like crap. ofcourse if grounding or rpm was not tapped correctly, you wont even idle right. yeah im 90% positive its just SAFC2 install or config that is wrong. defintly not the o2 hahahaha.
wish u were closer , i'd help ya for a few beers lol.
the VTA can be semi compensated with the SAFC2 settings but still, u shouldnt be running it in your evo.
also check the settings, theres various config like number of cylinders, you can pick MAF/MAS etc etc.... make sure u get those right or ur car will run like crap. also u have to get the RPM tapped and tapped nicely or it will run like crap. also safc2 requires two grounds, if you did not follow direction precisely, it may run like crap. ofcourse if grounding or rpm was not tapped correctly, you wont even idle right. yeah im 90% positive its just SAFC2 install or config that is wrong. defintly not the o2 hahahaha.
wish u were closer , i'd help ya for a few beers lol.
Last edited by mifesto; Jun 8, 2007 at 09:01 PM.
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pulled the plugs and checked the piping, plugs look like crap lol they are black and brown, and i found one clamp on the ic piping that was loose lol....but that didnt fix it. I will try to find someone who has good plugs cheap. And hopefully John will call me today.
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COuld this be it? This is what its doing....
Coil Corrosion / Engine Sputtering
A recurring engine sputtering problem, even on a very low mile car, can be caused by coil corrosion. Intermittently, when accelerating in any gear there is a loss of power, feeling like fuel starvation. It cuts out then back in, then out then back in. It's most noticeable during hard acceleration. This happens with TCS and ABS on or off, the engine warmed up, no "Ckeck Engine" light coming on. In 2000/2001
found here:
http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Troubleshooting/engine.htm
Coil Corrosion / Engine Sputtering
A recurring engine sputtering problem, even on a very low mile car, can be caused by coil corrosion. Intermittently, when accelerating in any gear there is a loss of power, feeling like fuel starvation. It cuts out then back in, then out then back in. It's most noticeable during hard acceleration. This happens with TCS and ABS on or off, the engine warmed up, no "Ckeck Engine" light coming on. In 2000/2001
found here:
http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Troubleshooting/engine.htm