JDM EVO 9 REAR vs. INSURANCE ADJUSTER
#46
It can be done correctly and look right.
#47
I'm sure these guys know TO LOOK for a crash beam, but c'mon, its not like they go to Crash Beam Identification school before they become a certified adjuster. If its done cleanly and they see a crash beam, they probably won't know unless they are a bonafide car guy and know Evo's.
#49
Even if you are rear ended and it is the other guy's fault an adjuster will still look the car over. I plan to modify or fab one up here. I actually plan to fab one I think as there is interest in after market JDM IX rear crash bars. But anyway, the first post is correct in that the beams are designed to absorb an impact. If for no other reason than the fact that the crash beam bolts on in two places. That alone cuts an impact in half at those reaction points, but that would only be if the beam was infinitely rigid. It is not and therefore the crushing of the beam itself will absorb most of the energy of an impact in reality. I see a lot of talk saying the crash beams do nothing but nobody ever backs that up. There is a lot of proof in simple physics that they do in fact do something. But if this is purely an insurance related topic, I say if you cleanly modify your beam you will be just fine. But that is no guarentee.
#50
Its a support beam, not a crash beam.
The way a crash beam works is it has pistons that collapse to absorb some of the impact.
The bumper support or crash beams are designed to channel the force of impact into the strongest portions of the car, which are the frame rails, unibody cars also have these rails but their called something else because their part of the floor pan.
Without a crash beam, even low speed impacts can do alot of damage. But without anything, the entire force of any impact is transmitted directly to the area hit, so you will get the trunk floor buckling, rear panel, quarter panel, trunk lid, roof panel etcetera.. A $2500 repair could cost an another $5000 of additional damage.
Even at high speed, if you channel the energy through the strongest part of the car, the amount of damage (Within reason and speed) will be alot lower.
Once you go beyond that point, the impact will deform what are called crumple zones designed to collapse before the passenger compartment collapses. Once you deform the crumple zone stress points, you have rendered the car a total loss.
.... This is the story ....
Do what you want, but expect a car without crash beams to be worth alot less in that full loss part-out you'll end up doing when many of you guys inevitably wreck.
The way a crash beam works is it has pistons that collapse to absorb some of the impact.
The bumper support or crash beams are designed to channel the force of impact into the strongest portions of the car, which are the frame rails, unibody cars also have these rails but their called something else because their part of the floor pan.
Without a crash beam, even low speed impacts can do alot of damage. But without anything, the entire force of any impact is transmitted directly to the area hit, so you will get the trunk floor buckling, rear panel, quarter panel, trunk lid, roof panel etcetera.. A $2500 repair could cost an another $5000 of additional damage.
Even at high speed, if you channel the energy through the strongest part of the car, the amount of damage (Within reason and speed) will be alot lower.
Once you go beyond that point, the impact will deform what are called crumple zones designed to collapse before the passenger compartment collapses. Once you deform the crumple zone stress points, you have rendered the car a total loss.
.... This is the story ....
Do what you want, but expect a car without crash beams to be worth alot less in that full loss part-out you'll end up doing when many of you guys inevitably wreck.
If you live in Southern California here is where you can take it to be done: http://www.steenchassis.com/ They will cut your crash beam length-wise take out a section along the length in the middle, then weld it back together. Paint it with a nice primer coat then mount it back on to the existing mounting holes. This company specializes in building drag chassis, so this was child's play for them.
Another element that no one is mentioning is you will also need to remove the inner styrofoam piece that sits inside the bumper impression on the US spec bumpers. Another crash-absorbing component you will have no choice but to remove.
#51
Imagine what happens if you put in an aftermarket steering wheel and you get hurt in an accident. Even worse if someone else is driving your car with modified or removed safety equipment and they get injured. Major bad times.
#52
common sense, really. if you have no crash beam AT ALL, you're pretty much telling them yourself "hey, who cares what happens to the rear end? as long as it looks cool i don't care." just ghetto rig one up and you'll be fine. as long as there's one there period, whether it's stock or not.
#54
Remove the beam, cut off the legs, drill out the spot welds. Reposition the mounts, weld them. Paint them.
I wrote a thread with pics. Search for my name and you'll find it.
#55
#56
#59
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