Dont Try To Run

iTrader: (1)

The jerking in fourth gear also happens in every gear, even first at 3k-4k RPM levels. It almost is as if the spark plug wires have gone to hell, but sometimes they want to work. I have stopped driving the car this week, but I did take it for a drive last night and I found that 9 out of 10 times I cannot get over 10psi to save my life. One time though, it hit full boost, however it seemed like it did not pull as hard? It went to 28psi, which is what I am tuned for.

As for the catch and go part, I am reffering to the engine... not the clutch. Once it hits 4500rpm, it pauses there and holds that rpm level, then goes way past that and continues on past 4500rpm. I have had a two-step program installed from ams and the rev limiter removed. The car does not move at all, and my clutch pedal has never been adjusted in anyway.

Dont Try To Run

iTrader: (1)

Ok, *******. And guess what? You have no business telling me what I can or cannot do. I saved up for this car for years, bought everything with my own money, and earned it. I am sorry if I have a problem and came to here to help. If you don't want to be constructive, then leave. And don't ever act like my dad

rcheung

iTrader: (15)

vmrevo9

iTrader: (33)

That is true but what was constructive about his comment? I think he has the right to get worked up. Just cause he's 17 or whatever age doesnt give anybody the right to question him or the reasoning of him owning that car. he worked for it and he knew he would have problems. I think this is a great way to get started. He's looking for info and guess what most of us started that way too. He's looking for advice and a little guidance so what about giving him the info needed instead of being negative.

look heres an example;

it sounds like you BOV is part of the problem, but i would definitely take it to AMS and see what might be causing the rest of your headaches.

man that was so easy to do instead of releasing some much negative energy

AlwaysinBoost

iTrader: (17)

Ok, I think I understand you now. My guess would be that your stationary revlimiter is set to 4500 RPM, is that correct? When you were reving the car with the shifter in neutral and foot on the clutch was the ebrake set? The reason I ask this is because your stationary rev limiter works off of the VES (vehicle speed sensor), and that sensor must read 0 MPH in order for the SRL to work. If your car starts to roll, even a little, while on the SRL the ECU will switch to the 'normal' rev limit value.

That 'might' explain the problem you experience... try it again, this time with the ebrake set so you don't roll and see what happens. Just don't sit on the SRL for too long. If that doesn't work I suspect you have an ignition related issue and that it is also causing the 'bucking' problem you are feeling while driving. I don't think its compressor surge, that should happen lower in the RPM not higher and usually in higher gears then 1,2 & 3.

Dont Try To Run

iTrader: (1)

AlwaysinBoost- Yeah, the car was definitely not rolling but I will try it again tonight. I have not drove the car for a few days, but I am going to later tonight when my buddy comes over and I can borrow his evo's spark plug wires for a bit to try it. I will let you all know though how it goes. Either way, i have an appointment at AMS tuesday.

Thank you guys, we will see what happens... weird problem.

TJ

Pro

who are you to tell him whether he deserves the car or not. If he or his parents can afford it who cares. If you're not gonna give him advice, why say anything at all other than to prove how big of an ***-hole you can be.

badhabit90

iTrader: (13)

that, to me, sounds like your two step activating as highlighted above....

justchil

iTrader: (44)

Do the obvious/cheap things before going to AMS if cost is of concern. It's cheaper for you to do these things yourself assuming you know how or can learn how.

Change the plugs (be sure to correctly gap), Buy new OEM wires, Check both coils for any bulges or cracking that would indicate one is going bad. Plugs and wires are cheap... coils are around 100/each if you would see something wrong.

If the HKS DLII went bad you should probably start with the ignition and go from there.

Dont Try To Run

iTrader: (1)

To be honest with you guys, I WANT to learn how 100%. I obviously do my own oil changes and spark plug changes. I did not pull the plugs yet, i will do that tomorrow morning. I guess it does not hurt to check them (I changed them about 800 miles ago, with the correct gap as well). Thank you for the responses though. And yeah, I am young, and I am one of very few to drive a car with this amount of whp and I accepted that responsibility a long time ago and I have proven myself to my parents for two years with my past car.

I think I am going to go the Busher Ignition set up soon regardless but I really would perfer to drive my Evo rather then my Toyota Sienna Van... I have enough money to repair the car myself, but I am saving for other expenses down the road (starting to set money aside for a clutch and rebuild the drivetrain) and I would rather not tap into that fund.

badhabit90- Yes, i eventually did hit the two-step... (where the machine gun like sounds passes through and exits the exhaust before you launch the car to help build boost, even though you obviously know what that is =) However, I am saying that when i rev the car while NOT* in gear without the car rolling at all, it will rev to 4500rpm... and pause... even if the gas pedal is all the way to floor. It seems as if their is a short in the plugs under high acceleration. Then, after the pause, it will sometimes* continue on normally to the regular two step rev limit... However, that pause is what gets me while driving.

Another way to explain... If i am driving in ANY gear, and I floor it starting at about 3000rpm... You can hear the turbo slowly start to kick in like normal, but once my boost gauge hits about 10-12psi... The needle starts to shake rapidly between 10-12psi. Usually then I will let off, since I thought my clutch was beginning to go (this is my first stick car with this much power. My last car was a newer VW Passat, also stick, but it does not even compare). However, if I floor it in first gear sometimes it will act normally, but any other gear it does not through the rpm range as it will have the pause. I am beyond confused on this one. I will check my spark plugs tomorrow, and probably change them just for the hell of it as I have an extra 12 already. ... Let me know if that makes any more sense above. If anyone is local, I am willing to drive the car over and you can ride with me or even drive it to experience it. It is very hard to explain how it is acting. I have not drove it for the last three days though, as I am afraid I will make the problem worse.

Sorry for the paper

AlwaysinBoost

iTrader: (17)

IMO I wouldn't buy anything additional for the car until you figure out what the problem is, you might end up complicating things.

What you described about sounds a little like compressor surge. 1st usually you don't experience it because the engine moves so fast. Taller gears like 4-5th, where the RPM doesn't move as quick, its more pronounced. It almost sounds like you have two seperate problems.

You said that your car has cams, do you know which ones and what the duration is? When I had my 35r on the stock block with stock cams I would experience bad compressor surge on the highway in 5th gear when I would try and pass someone @ 2-3k RPM w/o downshifting. I would also get it in 2-5th when I had a very non-restrictive intake setup (straight 4" off the compressor housing). The way I got around that, w/o installing cams, was to put a more restrictive intake on the car. ONe that necked down from 4" @ the compressor housing to 2.5" up thru the MAF. That would limit how easy the turbo could suck air. IMO, ff you do buy anything for the car at this point that would be it, just to try.

whoang40

iTrader: (26)

now why didn't AMS look at the BOV in the first place when you took it to them last?
If this is what we are thinkiing, I wouldn't think AMS would miss something easy like this. Try tuning it with AEM EMS to see if that helps or put a forged recirc. BOV and maybe it will quit stalling, good luck!

Maxdelta

Warrtalon this is for you:

Coping with jealousy

People who experience pathological jealousy, and people for whom jealousy triggers violence, may benefit from professional counseling. People who experience normal jealousy have at least nine strategies for coping with jealousy. The problem-solving strategies include: improving the primary relationship, interfering with the rival relationship, demanding commitment, and self-assessment. The emotion-focused strategies include: derogation of partner or rival, developing alternatives, denial/avoidance, support/catharsis, and appraisal challenge. These strategies are related to emotion regulation, conflict management, cognitive change, and ground rules for managing jealous competition. The most important thing to do about any feelings of jealousy is to first admit them, and then attempt to overcome them.

20gmr

iTrader: (7)

i bet you the BOV is opening. going wot at 3k in an evo with a 35r would probly be a lot of load wich is when my 20g does the same thing. this would also explain why the car is ok in 1st. get a forge recirc it or atleast for now stiffen the bov up. what bov is on the car you can't see in the pictures

Spooldyou

iTrader: (52)

your maf is bad has a lose wire or disconnected.