natilution

iTrader: (4)

Here's the deal:

My car has been sitting for awhile since the winter season has started. I started it and putted around every now and then just to keep things in function when the weather wasn't too bad. Today I took the car out since it was a beautiful day and I was getting the beep only at an idle even with the car warmed up. As soon as I would begin to accelerate the beeping would stop as my oil pressure would rise. Then out of nowhere I'm getting a continuous beep even during acceleration. The gauge readings and everything else seems to be working fine, but every now and then while I'm spooling I hear a squeaking noise occur. I have no clue as to what I should do to fix the annoying beep. I've messed around with the warning levels and everything with the control unit and it's still occuring.

As far as the squeak, any thoughts? I'm clueless.

Would changing my oil maybe solve the problem? I've checked for bad connections and everything. I'm going to scope it out a little more tomorrow to search for any kind of leaks and whatnot.

Thanks for your advice in advance!

2k4EvoVIII

iTrader: (15)

Check your oil!

4cdndctn

iTrader: (8)

Can you confirm oil level is ok and that you are holding pressure? Did you lower the trigger point too low? What oil grade and filter are you using?

Oil pressure should be lower at idle then rise to a point under load which you seem to know.

I don't know how the squeak and the oil would be related...

kyriptic

iTrader: (4)

Posting where u have the warning level set to would be helpful. Could be you have it set too high so it keeps trigger. Like the guy above said at idle ur pressure is low and increases with load.

vboy425

iTrader: (19)

remember, oil pressure is how low it goes and not how high. If it's beeping while you're WOT, something is causing the pressure to drop.

natilution

iTrader: (4)

Oil level is normal, and the gauge seems to read fine while I'm driving. It's not showing any weird signs that would cause the warning light/beep.

Using OEM filter and Mobil1. I've never had this problem before and haven't switched anything in the oil change routine.

I've had it set low, high, in between, and everything. Changing the warning level setting hasn't solved anything, but the continuous light/beep started AFTER I tried fixing the problem how it occurred first.(Only beeping at idle, not acceleration or WOT)

Any suggestions to where I should set the warning? I've tried almost everything but I'll give it another whirl just to double check.

The gauge doesn't show any sign of the oil pressure dropping. That's why I'm confused as to why the damn light is on and the beeping is driving me crazy!

vboy425

iTrader: (19)

i have the BF series gauges for over 3 years now. put the warning setting all the way down to 0 and see what happen, if it's still acting either you have some connection issues or your sender is dead.

natilution

iTrader: (4)

Problem solved. I think I might have a connection problem, but it has stopped. My warning level was set at 0 already. Maybe opening and closing the glove box and tugged a few wires...we'll see.

Thanks for chiming in guys!

vboy425

iTrader: (19)

glad you fixed it.

kyriptic

iTrader: (4)

I know once my oil pressure wire got loose in the back and I'd get a constant beep IDLE/WOT whatever. If you got that its definitly a connection issue i'd say.

natilution

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, I fixed it. Thanks.

CJ2X

iTrader: (4)

I'm having this problem now. I'm in the same situation as you; Car is in storage 10 months out of the year. I just changed the oil and it's still doing it. Oil level is fine and I've traced all the wires. It didn't do this before it was put in storage....

Help!

natilution

iTrader: (4)

Do you have the Defi Link? If so, make sure your oil pressure warning is set to 0.

CJ2X

iTrader: (4)

I can't. Everytime I set it to 0 and I shut off the car, it goes back to 20. Is there a way I can set it to 0 for good? I've tried everything...

Evownz

Remixx, this sounds like your Link unit maybe wired up to a non-constant 12v source. If that's the case, every time you shut the car off, you reset the Link brain and all of its settings. Test where your 12v source is coming from with the car off, ignition set to ACC, and the car running. You should have 12v in all 3. If you don't, try wiring the unit to the constant 12v from your stereo, that's the reason you don't lose all you presets when you shut the car off. You can also wire directly to the battery, but if you decide to take this route, make sure you use wiring with a fuse in-line. Hope this helps.