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Whats the best oil filter to get!!

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Old Feb 19, 2008, 02:27 PM
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the best?

Canton Mecca

http://www.cmfilters.com/spin-on.cfm

it may cost a bit more, but thats the price you pay for 8 micron filtration as opposed to 20+ micron filtration

it uses depth filtration so it can hold more sediment than a pleated paper filter (which 99% of spin on filters are) and it can even out flow a brand new pleated paper filter when contaminated/dirty

it also has no bypass. typical automotive filters have a bypass valve that allows unfiltered oil back into the engine when the filter element gets full. many of these bypass valves are made of PAPER! & use a spring that in underrated, leading to a constant flow of unfiltered oil.....

it has an anti drainback valve to keep the oil from draining back to the pan when the engine is shutdown, this leads to oil pressure being established faster on startup

also the filter element , seals & drain-back valve are all replaceable/rebuildable
Old Feb 19, 2008, 02:31 PM
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OEM with mobil 1!
Old Feb 19, 2008, 02:35 PM
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it costs $6 from the dealer for a filter. no need to pinch pennies on a $30K car.
Old Feb 19, 2008, 03:26 PM
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OEM FTW! AMS sells them now
Old Feb 19, 2008, 05:31 PM
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just ordered 6 from lancershop yesterday (plus some diaqueeen)


On a similar note... is the EVO8 accessory belt the same as the IX belt?? (where and howmuch for these for a IX??)
Old Feb 19, 2008, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by CharlieGsanD
the best?

Canton Mecca

http://www.cmfilters.com/spin-on.cfm

it may cost a bit more, but thats the price you pay for 8 micron filtration as opposed to 20+ micron filtration

it uses depth filtration so it can hold more sediment than a pleated paper filter (which 99% of spin on filters are) and it can even out flow a brand new pleated paper filter when contaminated/dirty

it also has no bypass. typical automotive filters have a bypass valve that allows unfiltered oil back into the engine when the filter element gets full. many of these bypass valves are made of PAPER! & use a spring that in underrated, leading to a constant flow of unfiltered oil.....

it has an anti drainback valve to keep the oil from draining back to the pan when the engine is shutdown, this leads to oil pressure being established faster on startup

also the filter element , seals & drain-back valve are all replaceable/rebuildable

the best right here
Old Feb 20, 2008, 02:24 AM
  #22  
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The OEM is the best. All of the high horsepower EVO's & DSM's run a stock filter. If you have to spend more money to feel better, go for better oil such as Redline, Schaffer's, AMS oil(not related to the shop, an actual oil company), or Royal Purple. Mobil 1 is fine for moderately aggresive drivers. If your cranking on the boost all the time, try to run the better stuff. In temps above 60f, you should be running 15W50, or 20W50. It provides better protection for the bearings, and it's all the high power big dogs run. Running higher quality oil and changing it every 1,500 miles when your beating the crap out of it will provide better protection than going with an aftermarket oil filter.
Old Feb 20, 2008, 04:49 AM
  #23  
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Mobil 1 filter is M1-108. Thats all I use since the dealership is far away, and I get it for $4
Old Feb 20, 2008, 04:56 AM
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I just get the cheapest one there that has a magnet.
Old Feb 20, 2008, 05:02 AM
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Originally Posted by chu
Mobil 1 filter is M1-108. Thats all I use since the dealership is far away, and I get it for $4

Ive always used M1-110
Old Feb 20, 2008, 05:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 06RS
Has anyone used the Ralliart Neodymium Magnet Oil Filter?

They sell them here: http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/bc...ategory=engine
(It's about 3/4 of the way down the page)

It costs ¥4,967 or $46.29
I'm sorry but paying that much for an oil filter is ****ing rediculious! There's no reason for it. The $7 oem filter was made for, and extensively tested on, our cars. If you want to pamper the crap out of your car just change the oil a little more frequently. About twice a year or so, I stop by the dealership and just pick up 5-7 of them in one go
Old Feb 20, 2008, 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Ev0cRaZy
Ive always used M1-110
Thats what Pepboys told me, and it works fine. Is the 110 a bigger filter? I've always thought the 108 was a bit skinny.
Old Feb 20, 2008, 05:20 AM
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Mecca, System 1, stainless screen filters work well are cost less over the long run also they can be plumbed just about anywhere with a spin on filter adaptor and AN hose lines. And lets see if paper filters were that good why dont you see them on premium race cars. ie. F1, Indy, ALMS, IMSA, NHRA do I need to go on. While they might be overkill on the street they will pay for themselves over the lifetime of your car. 4$ filter for a 6-10k modified engine I dont think so.
Old Feb 20, 2008, 05:46 AM
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This is interesting. Do you know of a source that offers emprircal data showing long term (high mileage) effects?

Originally Posted by CharlieGsanD
the best?

Canton Mecca

http://www.cmfilters.com/spin-on.cfm

it may cost a bit more, but thats the price you pay for 8 micron filtration as opposed to 20+ micron filtration

it uses depth filtration so it can hold more sediment than a pleated paper filter (which 99% of spin on filters are) and it can even out flow a brand new pleated paper filter when contaminated/dirty

it also has no bypass. typical automotive filters have a bypass valve that allows unfiltered oil back into the engine when the filter element gets full. many of these bypass valves are made of PAPER! & use a spring that in underrated, leading to a constant flow of unfiltered oil.....

it has an anti drainback valve to keep the oil from draining back to the pan when the engine is shutdown, this leads to oil pressure being established faster on startup

also the filter element , seals & drain-back valve are all replaceable/rebuildable
Old Feb 20, 2008, 05:57 AM
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You guys are crazy your buying expensive filters for what? OEM is perfect. Other option is Beck Arnley oh yeah and Casite Hastings.


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