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Old Mar 28, 2008, 03:18 PM
  #16  
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my 2006 eclipse did that, but it only did it for one week when it was really hot out. it actually died when at stop lights a few times.
dealership said no problems found, mitsu repair manual if i recal says that could be from the MAS hot heat acting on it. I say just reset your ECU (disconnect battery) i dont think you got any leaks or any problems.
Old Mar 28, 2008, 03:36 PM
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Angry

Originally Posted by Burklow
1st bet, I think that is the problem right there. Even if you cleaned it, it could be damaged. I hate how fragile they are. I wish our cars came stock with speed density sometimes.

2nd bet, your intake pipe is causing interference with the MAF. Even with a tune, there is nothing to shield the sensor from interference. The aftermarket pipe just amplifies noise and vibrations where as the accordion tube would lower it. There really isn't any gain to be had in replacing the pipe. The filter is where you'll see the power.

Ok but if the MAF is damaged would it not send out a check engine light? Is there a way to test an MAF and where can i get an OEM one. Also the stock intake hose is smooth just like the aftermarket one why would the fins on the outside help any with the noise/turbulance on the inside? Other than it being made out of metal and it being bigger in diameter the stock is no so different than the aftermarket.


OK new problem today i put an optima battery into my car. So ultimatly i had to cut the stock 100 amp fuse off the stock positive battery post so i could fit the new battery into place and mount the terminals up to it. Now i have the altenator line (the white with red stripe) wire running to a amp fuse case then to the positive post on the battery. It has blown and 100 amp fuse 3 times in the last 4 months and my voltage when i started it up was 14.7v and would-could get as low as 13.8v is this normal operating voltage! Now im getting 11.5Volts and the fuse i put into the car and the altenator fuse under the fuse pannel is fine. Battery and the brake light are on all the time.
Old Mar 28, 2008, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by aspensvt16
Does it really make a difference if the maf is upside down? Also I know the oil was from the pcv valve. Turbo wheel is fine no play in the shaft when i wiggled it. Also intercooler pipe had a little residue of oil but just barly enough to leave a film on your fingers.

I have another question? the 100 amp fuse right off the positive of the battery what does that go to! Altenator? Starter?
The maf has a wire inside it that sends a voltage signal to the ecu based on how much air is coming through it. The more air coming over the wire the more it cools the wire which is how it sends the proper voltage. When you turn the maf sensor, it changes the airflow characteristics over the wire. This can cause lean or rich conditions which can cause all kinds of mischief. The maf also has an air temp sensor in it but the turning of the maf probably won't affect that much. I believe the 100amp fuse is an altenator related fuse.
Old Mar 28, 2008, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by aspensvt16
Ok but if the MAF is damaged would it not send out a check engine light? Is there a way to test an MAF and where can i get an OEM one. Also the stock intake hose is smooth just like the aftermarket one why would the fins on the outside help any with the noise/turbulance on the inside? Other than it being made out of metal and it being bigger in diameter the stock is no so different than the aftermarket.


OK new problem today i put an optima battery into my car. So ultimatly i had to cut the stock 100 amp fuse off the stock positive battery post so i could fit the new battery into place and mount the terminals up to it. Now i have the altenator line (the white with red stripe) wire running to a amp fuse case then to the positive post on the battery. It has blown and 100 amp fuse 3 times in the last 4 months and my voltage when i started it up was 14.7v and would-could get as low as 13.8v is this normal operating voltage! Now im getting 11.5Volts and the fuse i put into the car and the altenator fuse under the fuse pannel is fine. Battery and the brake light are on all the time.
I dont think the maf is damaged, you probably would have a cel. I have also never seen a decent intake cause a stalling problem. The intake pipe is after the maf and shouldn't have much affect on turbulence and the maf dosn't have anything to detect noise. You definitely should not have chopped any fuses out of the factory positive wiring to the terminal. When the battery and brake light are on, that means that the alt is not charging. If you were blowing alt fuses then that may be a clue that the alt was shorting inside and on its way out. That may even have something to do with your stalling problem. -- good luck
Old Mar 28, 2008, 09:13 PM
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You have reset the ECU since you cleaned the MAF right? Disconnect bat or remove and replace 20amp engine fuse in the underhood fusebox in front of the battery - it has an engine icon on the fusebox legend. Removing fuse keeps your radio / clock settings intact but resets your ECU. Plus you dont need tools to pull and replace a fuse.

I agree the alternator could be causing problems as well, when specifically did it start doing this? After installing a part or just out of the blue?

Last edited by Mr. Evo IX; Mar 28, 2008 at 09:20 PM.
Old Mar 28, 2008, 10:21 PM
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get rid of the magnecor wires, I heard a lot of folks have been seeing alot of trouble with them.
Old Mar 29, 2008, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by LONS200GT
The maf has a wire inside it that sends a voltage signal to the ecu based on how much air is coming through it. The more air coming over the wire the more it cools the wire which is how it sends the proper voltage. When you turn the maf sensor, it changes the airflow characteristics over the wire. This can cause lean or rich conditions which can cause all kinds of mischief. The maf also has an air temp sensor in it but the turning of the maf probably won't affect that much. I believe the 100amp fuse is an altenator related fuse.

I will change the MAF back right side up today and report back to you. I had my cars negative cable unhooked for about a week before i put in my flashed ecu from dynoflash back in yesterday. So i dont think resetting the computer will help any at this point. I did start getting weard low idle when i changed over the battery setup. I know it was very NEWBish to mess with it but the optima was a better battery i had from a previouse car and the stock evo battery was giving up.

About the magnacore wires why would someone complain about more conductivity and less static interferance with the thicker wires!

So it is a 100 amp fuse right off the positive battery going to the altenator? If so i dont know why it would of been something i did. I did knotice that there was a amp wire hole drilled into the fire wall so im sure the person before me had something hooked up.
Old Mar 29, 2008, 02:17 PM
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For some reason after a while the magnecores usually cause a misfire. I don't know exactly why because I always have people put new stock wires on when this happens and the misfire goes away. I guess they may be poorly made or something. Many 500whp cars have stock wires so the magnecores are a waste of money, especially since they eventually (a year or two) cause misfires. I used to always use them on 1&2g eclipses and never had a problem with them but with the evos I have seen it several times.
Old Mar 30, 2008, 10:02 AM
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Ok

Well an update for all the fans of my EVO and all the great help in trying to get my car running perfect.

My altenator is fryed! Gone so i dont get to try out the turned right side up MAF! i dont feel a misfire but then again i cant prove anything without a scanner. I kinda figured the wires to be snake oil but i would like to beleve that they would help out rather than harm. I really want to get my car running great i have Auto cross this next month the 27th!


Does you guys know anyone who has done a battery relocation to the trunk because they would know about cutting the stock battery wires and putting in an aftermarket 100 amp fuse inline with the altenator fuse.
Old Apr 1, 2008, 09:31 AM
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Also wondering may have a similar problem
Old Apr 2, 2008, 05:54 AM
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what is you car doing?
Old Apr 2, 2008, 06:15 AM
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You know an upside down MAF does nothing to the readings. Mine is upside down right now.
Old Apr 2, 2008, 11:02 AM
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Just because yours runs ok with it upside down dosn't mean it "does nothing to the readings". When ever you change the position of the maf it affects the way the air flows across the hot wire. I only suggested he change it back to eliminate it as a possibility. Some people actually use clocking the maf (turning it to the left or right) as a way to slightly lean or richen the air fuel ratio because it affects airflow across the meter. Its good to know that you have had no problem with your setup. Most of the evo's I've seen or worked on all have the maf turned right side up.
Old Apr 2, 2008, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by LONS2001GT
Just because yours runs ok with it upside down dosn't mean it "does nothing to the readings". When ever you change the position of the maf it affects the way the air flows across the hot wire. I only suggested he change it back to eliminate it as a possibility. Some people actually use clocking the maf (turning it to the left or right) as a way to slightly lean or richen the air fuel ratio because it affects airflow across the meter. Its good to know that you have had no problem with your setup. Most of the evo's I've seen or worked on all have the maf turned right side up.
I really think the differences in the MAF readings will be minimal per orientation. Decimals on AFRs. That's interesting about the clocking. I just don't feel that is his source of the problem, but hey that's my opinion. By right side/ upside down up, which direction is the flat side with the plug facing just so we're clear. With mine: the flat side of the MAF is facing up towards the hood. This is upside down from the stock orientation, isn't it? I forgot how it was when I removed the airbox. Pretty much everyone I know does it this way so the cable is even easier to connect and disconnect when working around it. I agree with you taking that one possibility out of the equation though. Did he get rid of those magnecore wires before the alternator went out? I don't think they help at all.

Last edited by Burklow; Apr 2, 2008 at 01:34 PM.
Old Apr 2, 2008, 04:19 PM
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Angry

Originally Posted by Burklow
I really think the differences in the MAF readings will be minimal per orientation. Decimals on AFRs. That's interesting about the clocking. I just don't feel that is his source of the problem, but hey that's my opinion. By right side/ upside down up, which direction is the flat side with the plug facing just so we're clear. With mine: the flat side of the MAF is facing up towards the hood. This is upside down from the stock orientation, isn't it? I forgot how it was when I removed the airbox. Pretty much everyone I know does it this way so the cable is even easier to connect and disconnect when working around it. I agree with you taking that one possibility out of the equation though. Did he get rid of those magnecore wires before the alternator went out? I don't think they help at all.
Nope still have the magnacore wires. The altenator went out 3 days after i got the ecu back in. Right after i got done getting the summer tires on and a wheel alignment done! I have to wait for warrenty work to be done at a shop i know! I dont want to put up with ford dealership's auto workers beating my car up. Man its hard to get the MAF to fit right side up. The upper driver side intercooler piping gets in the way! Im not too sure if switching it right side up is going to help the idle but thats me. I feel the same volume of air is going to hit the hot wire no matter what position its in. I think in my down time im going to build a boost leak tester and run a compression test just for hell of it while its down. Sad i have driven maby 150 miles in the last 2 months!

Just to let you know that when i fist got the intake the car did the random low idle and would die then when i switched back to the stock setup it still did it butthe random low idle but would not stall and die completely. Ill keep you all posted about the car. Im going to have the tech see if he can get the car to misfire, or give me a knock readout.



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