Arrrrg
Apr 2, 2008, 05:41 PM
#31
Nope still have the magnacore wires. The altenator went out 3 days after i got the ecu back in. Right after i got done getting the summer tires on and a wheel alignment done! I have to wait for warrenty work to be done at a shop i know! I dont want to put up with ford dealership's auto workers beating my car up. Man its hard to get the MAF to fit right side up. The upper driver side intercooler piping gets in the way! Im not too sure if switching it right side up is going to help the idle but thats me. I feel the same volume of air is going to hit the hot wire no matter what position its in. I think in my down time im going to build a boost leak tester and run a compression test just for hell of it while its down. Sad i have driven maby 150 miles in the last 2 months!
Just to let you know that when i fist got the intake the car did the random low idle and would die then when i switched back to the stock setup it still did it butthe random low idle but would not stall and die completely. Ill keep you all posted about the car. Im going to have the tech see if he can get the car to misfire, or give me a knock readout.
Just to let you know that when i fist got the intake the car did the random low idle and would die then when i switched back to the stock setup it still did it butthe random low idle but would not stall and die completely. Ill keep you all posted about the car. Im going to have the tech see if he can get the car to misfire, or give me a knock readout.
You need to get EvoScan or Mitsulogger and a Tactrix cable so you can datalog...Thaat way you'll see things like voltage spikes,,,Crappy MAF readings....knocking...
Couple it with one of the code readers like Scantech and you can read the codes and reset the ECU along with some actual testing routines. Knowledge is power Bud
BTW Scantech is free, Mitsulogger is free and Evoscan is only $25 Tactrix cable is $80 Spend the money and you'll be a lot better off than paying some guy at a Ford dealership that dont know squat about the Mitsubishi ECU.
Random misfire shows as a P0300 code with a cylinder tag 0301 0302 etc Mitsu has been plaqued by this for ~10 years. It has shown up in Eclipses EVo DSM etc
There are literally hundreds of threads regarding the problems of repalcing the intake and the effects of that on the MAF signal. Unless you are tuned for the intake..dont do it..since u have it and the stock pipe apparently, replace it with the stock pipe. Return the MAF to the original configuration. BTW there is a thread regarding a problem with the IAT which is integral to the MAF. Solution is to replace the MAF.
To complete the stalling issue....you must find out what BOV is on the car. ANY VTA is a problem. The ECU on a MAF based is programmed for the air that is recirculated in the stock DV to the intake after the MAF. Dumping air to atmosphere releases air that is accounted for and consequently the car runs very rich on liftoff or idle = drivability issues= stalling issues= going back to a recurculated DV
In case you havent already, check all connections from MAF to throttle body and tighten all clamps. Clean the Throttle body thoroughly to eliminate tip in and idle issues. GEt way beyond the throttle plate when you do it !!!!!
Im glad you found the issue with the alternator. BTW how did they test for this as being bad? Drop and load tests are notoriously inaccurate, so inquire as to how they deemed it to be not good? With one of the loggers above you can log voltage and find out what the ECU is seeing :-)
Dont mean to sound harsh , so sorry in advance. Just trying to help a NB
Milburn
Last edited by wrcwannabe; Apr 2, 2008 at 05:46 PM.
Apr 2, 2008, 09:20 PM
#32
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^^^ +1
It is really hard to fix a car we can't physically see and work on. With logs, there will be a much better understanding of what is going on inside. Plenty of guys fluent with Ecuflash and evoscan to help you pinpoint what needs fixing.
It is really hard to fix a car we can't physically see and work on. With logs, there will be a much better understanding of what is going on inside. Plenty of guys fluent with Ecuflash and evoscan to help you pinpoint what needs fixing.
Apr 3, 2008, 03:59 PM
#33
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I know
I dont have a VTA BOV for the 3rd time
. I have a the Stock POS plastic BOV all evo 8 came with(non modified). Car was reading 11.9V when the altenator died. I have a Greddy informeter that will read out most of my sensors on my car. I took it into a parts shop and had them test it. There was no diode ripple off the altenator meaning the bridge was fryed! Its toast beleve me.... I got done doing a Compression test and a boost leak test today. i got 175, 176, 180 and 179PSI from passenger side to driver side, so im happy with that. I did it when the coolant temp was 50 Degrees instead of 70 so im not sure how that affected my test? I did find a large amout of air leaking from the throttle body shaft when i did the Boost leak test. I know i came across a how to do that showed how to replace the seal! I am also not going to take it into the ford dealership. I haveing my college auto mec instructor who owns his own shop do the warrenty work on it but its going to take time.
I had my ECU flashed by dynoflash for the intake setup i have. So thats not going to be the problem!
And i dont think your harsh i would rather have your idea than not have it at all. Keep them coming. Thanks for the help!
. I have a the Stock POS plastic BOV all evo 8 came with(non modified). Car was reading 11.9V when the altenator died. I have a Greddy informeter that will read out most of my sensors on my car. I took it into a parts shop and had them test it. There was no diode ripple off the altenator meaning the bridge was fryed! Its toast beleve me.... I got done doing a Compression test and a boost leak test today. i got 175, 176, 180 and 179PSI from passenger side to driver side, so im happy with that. I did it when the coolant temp was 50 Degrees instead of 70 so im not sure how that affected my test? I did find a large amout of air leaking from the throttle body shaft when i did the Boost leak test. I know i came across a how to do that showed how to replace the seal! I am also not going to take it into the ford dealership. I haveing my college auto mec instructor who owns his own shop do the warrenty work on it but its going to take time. I had my ECU flashed by dynoflash for the intake setup i have. So thats not going to be the problem!
And i dont think your harsh i would rather have your idea than not have it at all. Keep them coming. Thanks for the help!
