Engine Build 2008 by Mick with over 100 Photos
Jul 23, 2008, 11:47 AM
#127
koyo thick rad didnt fit... using a CBRD
had to order a silicone coupler that was missing...
ARC doesnt fit with the ETS kit... we dont have the time to fab a new inlet pipe here...
car will probably together today except for a few pieces..
cb
had to order a silicone coupler that was missing...
ARC doesnt fit with the ETS kit... we dont have the time to fab a new inlet pipe here...
car will probably together today except for a few pieces..
cb
Jul 31, 2008, 09:07 PM
#130
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I am finally back!!!! Sorry it has taken so long since I got the rest of my build on here. I apologize and it kinda feels like a left some people down.. But enough on that onto the install pics.
I think where I left off was the install of the Autopower 4 point roll bar. Make sure once you recieve the roll bar you inspect everything. I kept mine wrapped since Decemeber of last year only to find once unwrapper there were scratches in the black paint of the roll bar.
The first step below is to remove the back seat by pulling on the two tabs and pulling the back on the lower seat towards the front of the car.
The next step is to remove the center console. Open the lid and you will find two philips screws. Remove the screws and place them in a safe place.
Next the entire console should come off as shown below.
Rotate the front seats forward all the way as shown in the next two pictures.
Ok now to remove the back part of the rear seat. There are three bolts that have to be removed. Angela is removing the center bolt in this picture below.
Next remove the seat by tilting the top portion toward the front of the car and then pull the seat out through the rear door.
With the rear seat removed, the front seats pushed forward and the center console removed you are ready for the roll bar installation.
Below is the four point roll bar from Autopower. The reason why I went with this roll bar was primarily because of all the research I did on this forum. I admit I do a lot of shows and the Cusco bar although looks nicer and would probably net more points was not a safer option than the Autopower Roll Bar.
IMPORTANT!! Wrap those feet of the roll bar main hoop in rags as shown below. You don't want to ruin that cheap factor paint
Place towels inside the door sill as shown below to further protect your ride.
Start off by placing the passenger sides main hoop leg inside the car. It is best to do this with the help of at least one person. I do not recommend trying this install by yourself.
Next slide the bar into the car trying to keep the passenger side leg toward the front. That may be difficult to visualize but once you are installing you will know what I am trying to describe.
Angela is shown in this next picture helping me guide the roll barinto the car. It is a very tight fit.
Thinking that Angela was doing something wrong I decided to switch positions with her and tried to get the bar into the car. Now back in March I was able to test fit the roll bar by using this method described above. For some reason we could not get the bar in. So we decided if we removed the rear door it would help.
The rear door is supported by a hing connecting to the b-pillar. When working on doors make sure you have someone there holding the door so the weight of the door does not overload the lower bolt.
Rear door removed.
So much more room!
Our assumption for removing the door made the install very SIMPLE. The roll bar slid in with no problems. The next three pictures show the bar going into the car with ease. Note picture 3 how important it is to wrap the edges in a towel and have towels by your door sills.
Now fittitng the shorter bars onto the main hoop was pretty difficult. I did not take pictures during this because I was too determine to fit the pieces. It is a very tight fit and we used a rubber mallet with a towel to prevent damage to the rollbar paint. Below is a picture how it should look like.
Close up of the shorter bar on the drivers side.
Close up of the exact location for the main hoop on the drivers side.
With the cage in place and unbolted. The next step I did was reassmble the door. The next two pictures show this task.
Ok the final phase for the roll bar install is to bolt the points to the car. This phase was very simple. If you have the points in the correct position you will not hit anything while drilling. Make a small hole and then come back with a larger diameter bit and you are done. The manufacturer supplies you with plates that you place underneath the car. Using the supplied bolts and lock nuts simply place the bolts through the hole.
Below are the tools I used to drill the holes. I drilled from inside the car down. When drilling the holes after each hole was drilled I placed a bolt down through the car. This makes sure that the bolts will line up with the plate.
Repeat the steps above for the four points. Below is what the plate looks like with the bolts.
The final phase of the project is optional. If you want to keep your back seats you will need to modify them to fit around the roll bar. If not, you can skip this step and congradulations you have installed your autopower roll bar. These pictures are on Angelas camera which I dont have at the momment. I will have this phase uploaded tomorrow night so stay tuned.
Hope this helped.....
I think where I left off was the install of the Autopower 4 point roll bar. Make sure once you recieve the roll bar you inspect everything. I kept mine wrapped since Decemeber of last year only to find once unwrapper there were scratches in the black paint of the roll bar.
The first step below is to remove the back seat by pulling on the two tabs and pulling the back on the lower seat towards the front of the car.
The next step is to remove the center console. Open the lid and you will find two philips screws. Remove the screws and place them in a safe place.
Next the entire console should come off as shown below.
Rotate the front seats forward all the way as shown in the next two pictures.
Ok now to remove the back part of the rear seat. There are three bolts that have to be removed. Angela is removing the center bolt in this picture below.
Next remove the seat by tilting the top portion toward the front of the car and then pull the seat out through the rear door.
With the rear seat removed, the front seats pushed forward and the center console removed you are ready for the roll bar installation.
Below is the four point roll bar from Autopower. The reason why I went with this roll bar was primarily because of all the research I did on this forum. I admit I do a lot of shows and the Cusco bar although looks nicer and would probably net more points was not a safer option than the Autopower Roll Bar.
IMPORTANT!! Wrap those feet of the roll bar main hoop in rags as shown below. You don't want to ruin that cheap factor paint
Place towels inside the door sill as shown below to further protect your ride.
Start off by placing the passenger sides main hoop leg inside the car. It is best to do this with the help of at least one person. I do not recommend trying this install by yourself.
Next slide the bar into the car trying to keep the passenger side leg toward the front. That may be difficult to visualize but once you are installing you will know what I am trying to describe.
Angela is shown in this next picture helping me guide the roll barinto the car. It is a very tight fit.
Thinking that Angela was doing something wrong I decided to switch positions with her and tried to get the bar into the car. Now back in March I was able to test fit the roll bar by using this method described above. For some reason we could not get the bar in. So we decided if we removed the rear door it would help.
The rear door is supported by a hing connecting to the b-pillar. When working on doors make sure you have someone there holding the door so the weight of the door does not overload the lower bolt.
Rear door removed.
So much more room!
Our assumption for removing the door made the install very SIMPLE. The roll bar slid in with no problems. The next three pictures show the bar going into the car with ease. Note picture 3 how important it is to wrap the edges in a towel and have towels by your door sills.
Now fittitng the shorter bars onto the main hoop was pretty difficult. I did not take pictures during this because I was too determine to fit the pieces. It is a very tight fit and we used a rubber mallet with a towel to prevent damage to the rollbar paint. Below is a picture how it should look like.
Close up of the shorter bar on the drivers side.
Close up of the exact location for the main hoop on the drivers side.
With the cage in place and unbolted. The next step I did was reassmble the door. The next two pictures show this task.
Ok the final phase for the roll bar install is to bolt the points to the car. This phase was very simple. If you have the points in the correct position you will not hit anything while drilling. Make a small hole and then come back with a larger diameter bit and you are done. The manufacturer supplies you with plates that you place underneath the car. Using the supplied bolts and lock nuts simply place the bolts through the hole.
Below are the tools I used to drill the holes. I drilled from inside the car down. When drilling the holes after each hole was drilled I placed a bolt down through the car. This makes sure that the bolts will line up with the plate.
Repeat the steps above for the four points. Below is what the plate looks like with the bolts.
The final phase of the project is optional. If you want to keep your back seats you will need to modify them to fit around the roll bar. If not, you can skip this step and congradulations you have installed your autopower roll bar. These pictures are on Angelas camera which I dont have at the momment. I will have this phase uploaded tomorrow night so stay tuned.
Hope this helped.....
Aug 13, 2008, 08:13 PM
#131
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Ok back to the roll cage install.... The next few pictures will show you how to fit your stock seats with the cage. Remember it is not safe to put people in the back seat when you have a cage. The reason why I wanted my rear seats was purely for the look.
The next five pictures show how to fit the stock rear seats back into the evo. Remember to put protection on the hoops of the seats found at the bottom. I did not do this and ended up scratching the inside of my doors.
The next step is to determine where on the seats you are going to cut to make them form around the cage posts. You dont want to hack up your seats so the key is to make the smallest cutout possible. To do that I used household wire due to the rigid/flexibility.
Place the wire where the seats will line up with the rear deck. Follow the moldings down the fender well to the cage. Simply mark the wire where the edges of the posts (tangent section for all you engineers out there ).
Now place the marked wire along the rear seats and transfer your cutting limits to the rear foam part of the seat. As shown below.
The next step is to use a razor and trace the outline exposing the wire mesh of the seat as show below.
The next step is to cut the wire mesh. I used a dremel tool with a cutting wheel. Be very careful when using this method because it emits a lot of sparks. As shown I used a piece of carboard to protect the foam from the sparks. Also use a screwdrive to pry the wire mesh back once you made a few cuts.
Once you have made the final cuts simply place the wire ties back around the mesh and through the fabric of the seat.
You have now trimmed your rear seat to mold around the roll cage post.
Finished installed cage.
The next five pictures show how to fit the stock rear seats back into the evo. Remember to put protection on the hoops of the seats found at the bottom. I did not do this and ended up scratching the inside of my doors.
The next step is to determine where on the seats you are going to cut to make them form around the cage posts. You dont want to hack up your seats so the key is to make the smallest cutout possible. To do that I used household wire due to the rigid/flexibility.
Place the wire where the seats will line up with the rear deck. Follow the moldings down the fender well to the cage. Simply mark the wire where the edges of the posts (tangent section for all you engineers out there ).
Now place the marked wire along the rear seats and transfer your cutting limits to the rear foam part of the seat. As shown below.
The next step is to use a razor and trace the outline exposing the wire mesh of the seat as show below.
The next step is to cut the wire mesh. I used a dremel tool with a cutting wheel. Be very careful when using this method because it emits a lot of sparks. As shown I used a piece of carboard to protect the foam from the sparks. Also use a screwdrive to pry the wire mesh back once you made a few cuts.
Once you have made the final cuts simply place the wire ties back around the mesh and through the fabric of the seat.
You have now trimmed your rear seat to mold around the roll cage post.
Finished installed cage.
Aug 13, 2008, 10:00 PM
#132
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I dont even know what to say bro...gotta be one of the best threads ever!
Keep it up! I say sticky this thing! its so damn in depth, its like all the how-to's put into one thread, lol. Again, good job!
Keep it up! I say sticky this thing! its so damn in depth, its like all the how-to's put into one thread, lol. Again, good job!
Aug 14, 2008, 02:00 PM
#133
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Yea this thread is awesome for sure. I've got an ETS PT61 kit coming for my car in a few weeks I cant wait to get it on the car and everything going. Keep us updated though for sure.