I am almost 100% positive that this will not work. When the shop that was tuning my galant we got to chatting and a car that they were working on (3G eclipse SDS) they fried the ECU and I remember them trying to swap an ECU in and they couldnt do it. They had to have keys that were specific for the ecu.

Sorry to dissapoint

 

I want Numbers, I want boost.

SO far works has provided neither, I need them no matter how good teh product is. I want the NEW flash program, with boost control.

Bushur offers numbers and so far the best results for the smallest $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.

 

A company's published numbers can be very different than a non-biased report. Any company is going to present their results in the most impressive manner they can. This is only expected. The big question is why works refuses to show the a/f readings. If I'm gonna buy the flash with boost, I want to know it is safe and making power.

 

Ok, I have had the reflash for a little less then a week now and my initial observation is that it does not "appear" to run lean as my egts stay fairly low. In fact, lower then they appeared before the flash and certainly lower then my modded WRX did. After a full WOT run through 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears I was unable to get to the 1600 degree mark. I would say about 1550. Someone please correct me if I am wrong but if it was that lean would it not run significantly hotter? Also for those interested my EGT gauge is before the turbo.

Mike

 

Finally a post that means/shows something... however, I can't see any program running more rich than the OE.

 

Zeus,

I agree with you about the fact that the reflash should not be running richer then stock. I can say though, that based on my EGT's, is not running dangerously lean. Also, from what I could see during my 8 runs at a local autocross (not always looking down) the egt's did not climb over 1550.

I won the autocross for those interested

Mike

 

Wasn't doubting what you saw... good job on the autocross...

 

I have a FJO wide band permenantly installed in my car, along with a EGT, and boost, both with peak hold and 30 sec record/play back. If there is any one in the TX D/FW area that is willing, I will put your ECU in my car and do on road and/or dyno testing with the Works ECU, EXCED, or any other plug and play system.
I am holding out for the Power FC, but I would love to test these other systems. I have also notice that the stock ECU EGT's read higher than you would expect running so rich. I honestly believe the EGT's will lower after pulling back the fuel, I have seen this with other cars. There is so much unburned fuel in the exhaust, it ignites in the exhaust manifold, artificially (so to speak) raising your EGT's.

 

This is just idle speculation, but...

Isn't there a "workaround" so that you can start the car with a regular cut key, where you can use the brake pedal to enter this 6-digit code that came with the car? I thought I read something like that in the manual--just duplicate the car key at a locksmith, and use the code from the donor car. If the engine ECU is just coded to the key, this should work around the problem. However, it's possible that the ECU is keyed to something else in the car. (Such as perhaps some other code in the immobilizer ECU)

Also, does the key transmit the code electrically or through a short-distance radio signal? I.e., could you use a duplicate key but keep the other car's key near the ignition switch to transmit the code?

 

you can... I have a bypass box in ym remote starter so that car can remote start and have turbo timer.. but then you lose the whole immobilizer feature, b/c its always bypassed. at least mine is set up so it's only bypassed on remote start and not normally.

 

The actual key id circuit is not in the main ECU, so swapping ECU's is not a problem. I originally thought it would not work, but it does. BTW it does use short-distance radio, so you could theoretically just glue the stock key near the ignition switch and use any properly cut key, of course this eliminates your anti-theft device.

 

Sounds like it will be easy then for someone to hook up with you and swap ECUs. Wish my schedule had some play in it... I'd be very interested to see how things look.

 

I will try that trick tonight and get back to you guys. That would be awesome if this works. Then I can test before and after on 2 cars.

 

What are you EGT readings and where do you have the probe tapped?

 

It's about 6" back on the #1 cylinder (see pic). Typically winding out 4th gear and fifth I will see 840 to 860 peak. On a road course at the end of the main straight I have seen up to 900C, thats the highest I have ever seen so far. If your not pushing the car at all, (EGT's are very low) a fourth gear pull may barely break 800C, but sustained hard driving it's between 840-900C.
I have a 3" turbo back (RMR), stock drop-in K&N, MBC 19-20 PSI max that tapers to 17-18PSI, and a Greddy type S DV. I also now have a high flow cat.