yikez

iTrader: (2)

I asked the dealer about the method you suggested and they said the way they do the reset is by 'removing negative battery cable for a minute and put it back'.

They never heard of that method? weird .. i'll ask them to do it anyway! (although i never heard of it as well)

yikez

iTrader: (2)

UPDATE :

1id10t - i asked the dealer about the method again today, and they have never heard ot it. Nonetheless, i asked them to open the hood and i wanted to try it right away. Long story short, crossing the negative and positive with the battery disconnected WORKED. I no longer have a check engine after about 30mins of car idle (had an AC problem we were working on as well) and 20 miles driving!

I hope it doesn't come back! Anyways the other issue is im STILL getting NO LINK when i try to read the ecu. It used to give me '0 CODE' when i didnt have a check engine...

Any more ideas? im gona try to data log and see if that can read my ECU and report back!

novem

iTrader: (2)

there is testing for this. I believe there is a manual floating around here. I would check any and all connectors going into the pcm.then you'll check power and ground on the dlc to pcm.

N




ps low voltage from the battery can cause no comm.

yikez

iTrader: (2)

I'll check on that in 2 days when i go back to the dealer. Can you explain to me what the DLC is?

1d10t

iTrader: (19)

data link connector

92-stealth-twin

I have had vehicles come into the shop with a check engine light on, and then i goto connect and it won't. I have had a few were the wires on the back side of the connector have broke. I have also ran into a problem with trying to pull codes on some mitsubishi's but never an evo, sometimes the ecu transfers data different then the code reader does. In my case i have to use a different software on my scan tool. As i recall i had a 99 GSX were i had to wiggle the connector to get it to work.

yikez

iTrader: (2)

UPDATE:

check engine is back .. i'm really starting to think it's the PCM ..

man i have the worst luck! A check engine light that won't go away, and you try to read it and you get a 'no link'. There is NO thread on this forum that's related. Never happened to anyone before. Dealer has no idea. This really sucks!

selp

iTrader: (6)

like stated before, one of the pins could be damaged, or one of the link wires are probably melted, cut, damaged.
you might need to find it, good luck.

yikez

iTrader: (2)

i'll double check on it this time myself (dealer has checked and said they were fine) :/

What would cause the wires to melt? I'm wondering if i were to check this on my own, is it as easy as just looking under the OBD II port and looking for melted, loose or damaged wires?! Or am i taking this process too lightly?

Ph3n1x

iTrader: (12)

ECU Init code might be alttered or OBD baud rate altered in flash.

yikez

iTrader: (2)

you think so? my tuner is a reputable vendor on this forum. I also have been running on the same flash for months now why would this just show up?

yikez

iTrader: (2)

UPDATE: PROBLEM SOLVED

Phenix@XtremeBoost - you were right man. Something in the flash was altered for sure. When i flashed back to my previous tune check engine light was gone straight away and i was able to read my ecu. I tried flashing to the tune that was causing the problem after and i got the check engine again and i wasnt able to read my ecu.

Thanks everyone for all help! It's just weird how the problem appeared 3 months after i flashed and not straight away. This is what threw me off the problem being the flash itself.