Time for your HELP
#1
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Pottsville-PA
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Time for your HELP
Ok guys I am jumping ahead of my usual progress on my engine build because I am in some serious problems. I tried to take tension off of my belt tonight using the tensioner tool and yep you guessed it it broke on me. I believe that I am at least touching the belt because there is some play on the top. Before starting this step I made sure I was at top dead center.
I did do a search to see what I needed to remove to fix this problem but I am still confused and worried. As many of you recall I have to this date posted over 100 pictures of my build and I hope I have helped you guys. Now its my turn to ask for help.
I plan on doing this rescue mission this Sunday and if anyone in the Pottsville PA area (17901) would like to come by my garage and help my friend and I that would be great.
From what I read I need to remove the motor mount and then the lower plastic cover. What I have to do next is confusing to me. Has anyone broke this tool before that could give me a more detailed step by step? I hope that I did not ruin my project but I don't have a good feeling about the work/problems that are about to come out of this.
I really appreciate everyones help.
I did do a search to see what I needed to remove to fix this problem but I am still confused and worried. As many of you recall I have to this date posted over 100 pictures of my build and I hope I have helped you guys. Now its my turn to ask for help.
I plan on doing this rescue mission this Sunday and if anyone in the Pottsville PA area (17901) would like to come by my garage and help my friend and I that would be great.
From what I read I need to remove the motor mount and then the lower plastic cover. What I have to do next is confusing to me. Has anyone broke this tool before that could give me a more detailed step by step? I hope that I did not ruin my project but I don't have a good feeling about the work/problems that are about to come out of this.
I really appreciate everyones help.
#3
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Pottsville-PA
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I a worried about having timing issues after this is fixed. I have some more specific questions that maybe someone can answer.
1) If I can gain access to the shear bolt with only removing the motor mount and the plastic pulley cover will I have to worry about not being on top dead center? Before I inserted the tensioner tool I zip tied the belt to the cams.
2) As long as I keep the timing marks in the same place will I have to worry about not being in time? I forgot to record where the little white hash mark lines up on the bottom pulley. But there is a decal under the hood that states where it needs to be.
Thanks for everyones help, I am going to work.
Mick
1) If I can gain access to the shear bolt with only removing the motor mount and the plastic pulley cover will I have to worry about not being on top dead center? Before I inserted the tensioner tool I zip tied the belt to the cams.
2) As long as I keep the timing marks in the same place will I have to worry about not being in time? I forgot to record where the little white hash mark lines up on the bottom pulley. But there is a decal under the hood that states where it needs to be.
Thanks for everyones help, I am going to work.
Mick
#4
Evolved Member
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Upstate, SC
Posts: 1,607
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have! it was the mitsubishi tool that broke on me. I had to remove the lower timing belt cover, engine mount, serp belt tensionor, water pump pulley (that is a biotch to do) crank pully.
once you have done that, you need to remove the timing belt tensionor and then the belt. after that, remove the bracket that the mount bolts too. That is where I believe your tool has broken in. I would just cut/grind the tip of it off flush and not use it again.
I now prefer doing cam install that way.
once you have done that, you need to remove the timing belt tensionor and then the belt. after that, remove the bracket that the mount bolts too. That is where I believe your tool has broken in. I would just cut/grind the tip of it off flush and not use it again.
I now prefer doing cam install that way.
#5
Evolving Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: sunbury ohio
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
remove the accesory belt tensioner, the accesory idler pulley and ofcourse the accesory belt. remove the upper and lower timing covers, the water pump pulley and the engine mount. get the crank and balance shaft in time. set the oil pump in time. then set your timing belt, starting at the cams.
#6
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Pottsville-PA
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have! it was the mitsubishi tool that broke on me. I had to remove the lower timing belt cover, engine mount, serp belt tensionor, water pump pulley (that is a biotch to do) crank pully.
once you have done that, you need to remove the timing belt tensionor and then the belt. after that, remove the bracket that the mount bolts too. That is where I believe your tool has broken in. I would just cut/grind the tip of it off flush and not use it again.
I now prefer doing cam install that way.
once you have done that, you need to remove the timing belt tensionor and then the belt. after that, remove the bracket that the mount bolts too. That is where I believe your tool has broken in. I would just cut/grind the tip of it off flush and not use it again.
I now prefer doing cam install that way.
#7
Evolving Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: sunbury ohio
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
there are marks on the cams that line up with marks on the valve cover. there is a pointer on the engine that lines up with the notch on the crank sensor blade. there is an arrow that lines up with a notch for the balance shaft. and the oil pump has an arrow and notch but also must be at the correct balance point. if you do not know what you are doing, definitely do not attempt to time this car alone.
Trending Topics
#8
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Pottsville-PA
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
there are marks on the cams that line up with marks on the valve cover. there is a pointer on the engine that lines up with the notch on the crank sensor blade. there is an arrow that lines up with a notch for the balance shaft. and the oil pump has an arrow and notch but also must be at the correct balance point. if you do not know what you are doing, definitely do not attempt to time this car alone.
Maybe you can answer this question.... My tension tool broke at the bottom (1.5" from the bottom). Once I remove the motor mount and the lower and I look at the tensioner adjustor rod. If the two holes are lined up can I then assume that the tensioner tool has proper tension on the belts? If I am following the manual correctly the tensioner tool compresses the tensioner adjustor rod so that you can insert the pin and then remove the tool.
Now if the holes are not lined up that would mean that I don't have the tool down far enough. But what would I have to do then?
Once again thanks for everyones help.
#10
Evolving Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: sunbury ohio
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
pull the tensioner out. collapse it in a vise (be careful not to crack the housing) i usually put a small nut on the inner recessed part, so the vise does not sit on the outer soft aluminum housing. insert a small drill bit or the pin that comes in a new tensioner. and install in car. do not remove pin until the timing belt is reinstalled
#12
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Pottsville-PA
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
pull the tensioner out. collapse it in a vise (be careful not to crack the housing) i usually put a small nut on the inner recessed part, so the vise does not sit on the outer soft aluminum housing. insert a small drill bit or the pin that comes in a new tensioner. and install in car. do not remove pin until the timing belt is reinstalled
The white hash mark on the crank pulley, before applying tension to the belts I did not record the location. Does this pulley move when I apply tension to the belts, or because I didnt take anything apart it should still be in the correct position? I have my cam gears on TDC and I zip tied them to the cam gears. If they line up chances are the crankpulley should be in the right location right?
#13
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Pottsville-PA
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have decided to take the car to a EVO specific performance shop. I have a truck and trailer so I could transport the EVO to the shop. Will I do any additional damage to the car by removing the zip ties that are holding the belt onto the cam gear and pushing the Evo onto the trailer?
Thanks for everyones help.
Thanks for everyones help.