wroblewskievo

iTrader: (2)

i wouldn't worry too much about peak horsepower. i would be more concerned with a nice fat powerband. research ams, buschur, ets, etc and stick with their stage packages. the parts are made to work with each other and sometimes when you mix and match parts from different companies you don't always get the most out of the parts and the best result.

Mad_SB

iTrader: (8)

exactly

No way in hell will a stock turbo 9 on pump gas ever hit 400whp on a properly setup dyno dynamics without a huge hit of nitrous.

boost controller, cams, turbo back, lots of meth (or race gas), and a maxed out 9 turbo screaming for mercy might get you 375 whp if your lucky, but that would translate to right about 450 crank or dynojet

4WS Tuning

iTrader: (73)

-Intake k & n cone filter
-Megan downpipe / cutout
-Labonte Meth
-Ebay fmic
-Hallman mbc
-Walbro
-4ws Tune

boostedwrx

iTrader: (27)

^ what boost is that? headstuds?

Evo8zip

iTrader: (1)

ambystom -- I'd say closer to 350 is a fantastic number for a DD. Im close to 300 (on Buschurs dyno), and a friends Evo was in the 330's before he sold it. Mine leaves plenty to be desired, and I would go as far to say his is "scary" on the street.

I'm probably gonna get in trouble for this but oh well. Not saying that it hasn't been asked, but I have never seen anyone on here ask "what will it take to get to XXX horsepower AT THE CRANK???", but yet almost everytime someone asks a HP question, someone replies with "crank or whp?". I bet it's safe to assume when a HP question is asked, they mean to the wheels.

4WS -- Those are quite impressive numbers for so few mods. What is the boost spiking at and whats it holding to the end? Is the AFR at 12?

rahku

full boltons cams and E85

FJF

iTrader: (18)

FWIW, I agree with you, but it's a pointless argument - that I've also raised more than once - as virtually no one ever believes that he needs help driving. Everyone is a great driver just like everyone is great in bed. Just ask them.

59EVO

iTrader: (6)

2005 Evo VIII MR w/stock block:

• Stock Runs
  • Pro Motion Dyno Jet - 256.04whp/255.99lb-ft
  • DTM Mustang Dyno - 233.0whp/232.7lb-ft
• DTM EcuTek
  • DTM Mustang Dyno - 254.8whp/266.0lb-ft
• Hallman BC & Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
  • DTM Mustang Dyno - 278.3whp/278.7lb-ft (22psi)
• DTM FMIC & TurboXS TBE w/Cat-delete Pipe
  • DTM Mustang Dyno - 294.4whp/305lb-ft
• Twin-scroll modified Garrett 37R, 280 cams, Tial Wastegate, 880cc Injectors, Stock MAF & ECU, Ported&Polished Head
  • DTM Mustang Dyno - 378.1whp/318.1lb-ft
• Tial BoV, AEM Plug&Play ECU and Speed Density Sensor
  • DTM Mustang Dyno - 436whp/353lb-ft (23psi)
• 2.3 Stroker Block
  • DTM Mustang Dyno - ???whp/???lb-ft

I also relocated my battery to the trunk and installed an Exedy heavy-duty twin-plate clutch.

Remember that you need to account for installation costs (unless you do every thing your self--can you weld?) and Dyno charges (I don't think you have one of these). After tallying up everything, you don't want to know the cost...it was more that what you've got.

GinNBoost

iTrader: (20)

400 whp is my goal as well but even I know it won't be possible without meth or a turbo upgrade.

Burklow

iTrader: (3)

- 3" TBE with Test Pipe $600
- LICP $125
- O2 Dump/Housing $200
- MBC $80
- Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump $90
- Cosworth M2 or M3 (These are really for bigger turbos) cams $600
- Valve Springs and Retainers $225
- FP Green Turbo $1700
- 780cc Fuel Injectors $340
- Aquamist HFS-5 Meth Injection System $900
- Tune $300
---------------
~$5000

That is the best way to reach 400-450 WHP without race gas IMHO. After basic bolt-ons (300-340 WHP), things start getting expensive.

My car right now is a blast, and I couldn't honestly see how practicable it would be having it be much faster. Now, I may make this a track only car, but this is plenty of power for DD. I've driven cars much faster than my own as well.

DRFTKNGG

iTrader: (8)

A meth kit, buschur's 20G-9LT, Tomei Cams & Springs, Jestr ECU reflash Tune.

GinNBoost

iTrader: (20)

And that's just if he does all the installations himself! If you count labor, that's another couple grand right there.

diiirk@AwdMotorsports

iTrader: (12)

if you want to do it on stock turbo, you need all the bolt ons and meth or race gas and 28+psi. depending on your tuner, you may even go over 400. i didnt want to boost the hell out of the car to make 400. so i bought the fpgreen. if you wanna do it conservatively on pump gas and low boost, get a green. i have full bolt ons and cams, and im making ~400 on pump, my previous dyno was 390 on 22 pounds, but ive added the ported intake manifold and 65mm throttle body and fixed my boost controller problems, so i am very confident i will make 400 this saturday when i retune. good luck.

Burklow

iTrader: (3)

You're absolutely right. I've done all my own work on my car and highly recommend others do the same (given you understand what you're doing). I've learned a lot and saved a lot of money. Most installs are just time consuming, not difficult. A clutch is about the only thing I would have a shop install for me. On a 240sx, it would be easy. On an Evo, it's a PITA.

boostedwrx

iTrader: (27)

^ yep too bad the motor doesnt point in the right direction (cough cough STI cough)