Sucky Idle
#1
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Sucky Idle
I got a IX with ETS full intercooler setup (4" core), Blitz bc, and 3inch Cobb dp, Greddy Ti catback. I have the crappiest idle ever. When warming up its fine, but once I drive and lets say stop at a light. . . the idle will bog down to 700-750rpms then back to 1krpm then back down . . .sometimes it will stay there or feel like it wants to stall out. My idle was fine before I installed the intercooler. I had my exhaust installed first and everything was fine. I know, I know everyone says to do a boost leak test. I DID! And everything is good. Looked to see if any lines were pinched or disconnected. . . Nada. I looked through the forums to see if I can find someone with a similar issue but so far nothing. Any ideas??
-Thanks
-Thanks
#3
I actually had this exact same problem, but the reason for it was the installation of my apexi avcr boost controller. The tps and ignition wires that spliced into the ecu were actually severed, and to fix the problem I had to rewire the boost controller correctly and more efficiently. Idk if possibly your boost controller's wires are not fully connected, but that was the issue with my car. Now that I've rewired the controller the car runs beautifully.
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#9
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If you've ruled out the boost leak with a test but haven't been retuned since installing an open element intake (ours) then it's possible that could be causing your idling issues, but it does sound more symptomatic of a boost or vacuum leak. Are you still on the stock BOV?
Tom
Tom
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Yes Im still on the stock recirculating bov. I have been getting tuned by 4ws, he doesnt know either. I will recheck all vacuum lines again when I get home.
-Thx
-Thx
#12
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have you...
Unstable Idle (Rough Idle, Hunting)
STEP 1. Check if the battery terminal was disconnected.
Q: Has the battery terminal been disconnected lately?
YES : Start the engine and let it run at idle for approximate
10 minutes after engine warm up. Then, if a
malfunction occurs, go to Step 2.
NO : Go to Step 2.
Last edited by cfdfireman1; Jul 7, 2008 at 11:34 AM.
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STEP 2. Using scan tool read the diagnostic trouble code (DTC).
(1) Connect scan tool to the data link connector.
(2) Turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position.
(3) Read the DTC.
(4) Turn the ignition switch to the "LOCK" (OFF) position.
Q: Is DTC set?
YES : Refer to GROUP 13A, Diagnostic Trouble Code Chart
P.13A-25.
NO : Go to Step 3.
(1) Connect scan tool to the data link connector.
(2) Turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position.
(3) Read the DTC.
(4) Turn the ignition switch to the "LOCK" (OFF) position.
Q: Is DTC set?
YES : Refer to GROUP 13A, Diagnostic Trouble Code Chart
P.13A-25.
NO : Go to Step 3.
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its been about a month. The ECU should have learned the idle by now.
I would bet its a vacuum leak, or a tuning problem due to the ETS intake.
Could be a few different things making this happen, you just gotta start eliminating some of them.
Double check all of your hose clamps/couplers and vacuum lines.
Maybe reset the battery again and do the relearn to see if it makes a difference.???
I would bet its a vacuum leak, or a tuning problem due to the ETS intake.
Could be a few different things making this happen, you just gotta start eliminating some of them.
Double check all of your hose clamps/couplers and vacuum lines.
Maybe reset the battery again and do the relearn to see if it makes a difference.???