ARP Main Studs
#1
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ARP Main Studs
I believe in head studs as they are better for high boost high Hp. But I cant really believe in main studs given the complex and integrated cradle assembly on a 4G63.
Just wondering is any other tuners shop, experienced guys feel the same of have evidence to suggest they are needed. And I mean ive had/heard no issues with cars up to 600Hp.
Are we installing them just cause of hype?
Just wondering is any other tuners shop, experienced guys feel the same of have evidence to suggest they are needed. And I mean ive had/heard no issues with cars up to 600Hp.
Are we installing them just cause of hype?
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#4
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Sorry for the digging, but I just did a search on mains studs. There is no doubt that they are better. Sure the cradle is stronger and helps align everything better than having individual caps, however studs distribute the clamping force between 2 sets of threads.
I do believe that the stock bolts will hold up to serious horsepower, but like someone said its a cheap piece of mind right? Well sort of.. I have no experience with newer evo 4g63s and main studs, but a rule of thumb in engine machining is that you will have to align hone the mains if you switch to after market fasteners, especially to studs. That usually applies to rod bolts as well, even tho people in the evo and ls1 world (probably more newer engines) definitely get away with not re machining the rods. I do have first hand experience with dsm mains distorting enough that they need an align hone after stud install. My personal one was just a few tenths of a thousandth away from getting away with not honing the mains.
This depending on the shop, could be another $150 to $300. Still not bad, but these blocks are pretty well machined to begin with. If you do not have high dollar dial bore gauges (and I dont mean a few hundred, I mean $1k or more) and cant measure to check a local shops work, I would have to ask my self am I really building something that will be asking too much of the stock stuff.
I do believe that the stock bolts will hold up to serious horsepower, but like someone said its a cheap piece of mind right? Well sort of.. I have no experience with newer evo 4g63s and main studs, but a rule of thumb in engine machining is that you will have to align hone the mains if you switch to after market fasteners, especially to studs. That usually applies to rod bolts as well, even tho people in the evo and ls1 world (probably more newer engines) definitely get away with not re machining the rods. I do have first hand experience with dsm mains distorting enough that they need an align hone after stud install. My personal one was just a few tenths of a thousandth away from getting away with not honing the mains.
This depending on the shop, could be another $150 to $300. Still not bad, but these blocks are pretty well machined to begin with. If you do not have high dollar dial bore gauges (and I dont mean a few hundred, I mean $1k or more) and cant measure to check a local shops work, I would have to ask my self am I really building something that will be asking too much of the stock stuff.