Car keeps stalling when coming to a stop..
Apr 1, 2009, 06:19 PM
#16
Evolving Member
iTrader: (26)
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: strong island NY
Posts: 220
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i'd go with vaccum leak as well or iac, carefully spray some thottle cleaner around hoses and lines and see if the idle changes, if it does you'll know you have a leak around that area. Just dont go crazy spraying
Apr 1, 2009, 08:04 PM
#20
Evolved Member
iTrader: (22)
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Northern KY near Cincy
Posts: 2,408
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
You say "supporting mods" does this include a hard intake pipe? If so, swap in the stock rubber pipe and see if the problem goes away.
I had the exact same issue after my cam install...the car would die every time I rolled to a stop. I had no boost or vacuum leaks at all. I noticed that if I roll to a stop and sit long enough the car will stumble a lot but eveuntually stabilize and idle. When I looked at my logs it turns out the LTFT Mid was adjusting at idle to correct the rich condition that occurs with hard pipes and cams at idle.
This should not be the case. The car should idle and the LTFT Low should be the one adjusting. So...I logged the idle MAF Hz and discovered that it was idleing at 50+ Hz. This is was too high to allow the LTFT Low to adjust. I set out to test an idea....I removed my HKS suction pipe and put in the stock rubber one. The cone filter was left in on both cases. Immediatly the car started to idle and the STFT Low adjusted accordingly.
Thus my discovery is that my HKS suction was causing the MAF Hz to be too high at idle. I then put a 3" rubber coupler on the exit side of the MAF and inserted it into the HKS pipe as it normally would, and installed it in the car. Voial, MAF Hz below 40 and LTFT is now adjusting as it should.
I did have to to a tad bit of MAF scaling to get my LTFTs to where I like them.
Sorry for the long post.....I had to explain.
Paul
I had the exact same issue after my cam install...the car would die every time I rolled to a stop. I had no boost or vacuum leaks at all. I noticed that if I roll to a stop and sit long enough the car will stumble a lot but eveuntually stabilize and idle. When I looked at my logs it turns out the LTFT Mid was adjusting at idle to correct the rich condition that occurs with hard pipes and cams at idle.
This should not be the case. The car should idle and the LTFT Low should be the one adjusting. So...I logged the idle MAF Hz and discovered that it was idleing at 50+ Hz. This is was too high to allow the LTFT Low to adjust. I set out to test an idea....I removed my HKS suction pipe and put in the stock rubber one. The cone filter was left in on both cases. Immediatly the car started to idle and the STFT Low adjusted accordingly.
Thus my discovery is that my HKS suction was causing the MAF Hz to be too high at idle. I then put a 3" rubber coupler on the exit side of the MAF and inserted it into the HKS pipe as it normally would, and installed it in the car. Voial, MAF Hz below 40 and LTFT is now adjusting as it should.
I did have to to a tad bit of MAF scaling to get my LTFTs to where I like them.
Sorry for the long post.....I had to explain.
Paul
Apr 2, 2009, 04:04 PM
#24
Evolved Member
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Harrisburg, PA
Posts: 2,427
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do you have cams? Have you disconnected your battery at all?
One time I had my battery disconnected and I didn't let it "idle learn" long enough. I only let it idle for 5 minutes. It stalled and wouldn't idle anytime I put the clutch in a slow speeds. Turns out it was simple that the ECU didn't re-learn correctly. My cams didn't help the issue. I took my car back home disconnect the negative cable again, reconnected it and let the car sit and idle for about 15-20 minutes, or until I heard the cams start to lope after the initial high idle. Car ran great since then....
One time I had my battery disconnected and I didn't let it "idle learn" long enough. I only let it idle for 5 minutes. It stalled and wouldn't idle anytime I put the clutch in a slow speeds. Turns out it was simple that the ECU didn't re-learn correctly. My cams didn't help the issue. I took my car back home disconnect the negative cable again, reconnected it and let the car sit and idle for about 15-20 minutes, or until I heard the cams start to lope after the initial high idle. Car ran great since then....
Apr 2, 2009, 04:10 PM
#25
Registered User
iTrader: (22)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: MD/PA line
Posts: 2,324
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do you have cams? Have you disconnected your battery at all?
One time I had my battery disconnected and I didn't let it "idle learn" long enough. I only let it idle for 5 minutes. It stalled and wouldn't idle anytime I put the clutch in a slow speeds. Turns out it was simple that the ECU didn't re-learn correctly. My cams didn't help the issue. I took my car back home disconnect the negative cable again, reconnected it and let the car sit and idle for about 15-20 minutes, or until I heard the cams start to lope after the initial high idle. Car ran great since then....
One time I had my battery disconnected and I didn't let it "idle learn" long enough. I only let it idle for 5 minutes. It stalled and wouldn't idle anytime I put the clutch in a slow speeds. Turns out it was simple that the ECU didn't re-learn correctly. My cams didn't help the issue. I took my car back home disconnect the negative cable again, reconnected it and let the car sit and idle for about 15-20 minutes, or until I heard the cams start to lope after the initial high idle. Car ran great since then....
I have never heard of this before.
I was running a Forge BOV/DV and changed to an MR DV and now my car almost stalls. It's runnning like crap with just a BOV change. I'm in the process of getting a re-tune shortly cause I don't know whats wrong with my car.
Apr 2, 2009, 04:19 PM
#26
Evolved Member
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Harrisburg, PA
Posts: 2,427
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I went from stock plastic BOV to APS to stock again and back to APS all in the past week and didn't have any issues.
I've had the same "ECU relearn" issues in my Mirage too. The first 50 miles or so the car has to relearn everything. It runs goofy for 50 miles and then starts to run fine. It's happened everytime I disconnect the battery. It happens to every car, though stock cars you won't see much of an issue because they're, well...stock
If you disconnect a factory cars battery, it will not pass emissions because none of the readiness monitors are set. The car has to be driven 50-100 miles to "relearn". But in stock cars there aren't any driveablity issues.
I doubt this is the OP's issue, but if he disconnected the battery right before this started to happen, it's worth a shot to disconnect and reconnected it again and let it idle for 15-20 minutes.
I've had the same "ECU relearn" issues in my Mirage too. The first 50 miles or so the car has to relearn everything. It runs goofy for 50 miles and then starts to run fine. It's happened everytime I disconnect the battery. It happens to every car, though stock cars you won't see much of an issue because they're, well...stock
If you disconnect a factory cars battery, it will not pass emissions because none of the readiness monitors are set. The car has to be driven 50-100 miles to "relearn". But in stock cars there aren't any driveablity issues.
I doubt this is the OP's issue, but if he disconnected the battery right before this started to happen, it's worth a shot to disconnect and reconnected it again and let it idle for 15-20 minutes.
Apr 2, 2009, 07:02 PM
#28
You say "supporting mods" does this include a hard intake pipe? If so, swap in the stock rubber pipe and see if the problem goes away.
I had the exact same issue after my cam install...the car would die every time I rolled to a stop. I had no boost or vacuum leaks at all. I noticed that if I roll to a stop and sit long enough the car will stumble a lot but eveuntually stabilize and idle. When I looked at my logs it turns out the LTFT Mid was adjusting at idle to correct the rich condition that occurs with hard pipes and cams at idle.
This should not be the case. The car should idle and the LTFT Low should be the one adjusting. So...I logged the idle MAF Hz and discovered that it was idleing at 50+ Hz. This is was too high to allow the LTFT Low to adjust. I set out to test an idea....I removed my HKS suction pipe and put in the stock rubber one. The cone filter was left in on both cases. Immediatly the car started to idle and the STFT Low adjusted accordingly.
Thus my discovery is that my HKS suction was causing the MAF Hz to be too high at idle. I then put a 3" rubber coupler on the exit side of the MAF and inserted it into the HKS pipe as it normally would, and installed it in the car. Voial, MAF Hz below 40 and LTFT is now adjusting as it should.
I did have to to a tad bit of MAF scaling to get my LTFTs to where I like them.
Sorry for the long post.....I had to explain.
Paul
I had the exact same issue after my cam install...the car would die every time I rolled to a stop. I had no boost or vacuum leaks at all. I noticed that if I roll to a stop and sit long enough the car will stumble a lot but eveuntually stabilize and idle. When I looked at my logs it turns out the LTFT Mid was adjusting at idle to correct the rich condition that occurs with hard pipes and cams at idle.
This should not be the case. The car should idle and the LTFT Low should be the one adjusting. So...I logged the idle MAF Hz and discovered that it was idleing at 50+ Hz. This is was too high to allow the LTFT Low to adjust. I set out to test an idea....I removed my HKS suction pipe and put in the stock rubber one. The cone filter was left in on both cases. Immediatly the car started to idle and the STFT Low adjusted accordingly.
Thus my discovery is that my HKS suction was causing the MAF Hz to be too high at idle. I then put a 3" rubber coupler on the exit side of the MAF and inserted it into the HKS pipe as it normally would, and installed it in the car. Voial, MAF Hz below 40 and LTFT is now adjusting as it should.
I did have to to a tad bit of MAF scaling to get my LTFTs to where I like them.
Sorry for the long post.....I had to explain.
Paul
Thanks for the tip!
However Since im running a larger turbo, I can't put the stock rubber pipe back on, i have no choice but to stick w/the AMS hard intake pipe.
Apr 2, 2009, 07:20 PM
#29
Evolved Member
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Midwest
Posts: 648
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Stall
I would try the relearn again. This time unplug your ecu then plug it back in. Start the car without stepping o the throttle. Let it idle on it's own with all accesories off. Leave the car alone for at least ten minutes. I didn't believe this at first but it did wonders for the car.
At least do that since it's easy. Then you can move on to other things if it doesn't help.
At least do that since it's easy. Then you can move on to other things if it doesn't help.
Apr 2, 2009, 07:28 PM
#30
Registered User
iTrader: (22)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: MD/PA line
Posts: 2,324
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would try the relearn again. This time unplug your ecu then plug it back in. Start the car without stepping o the throttle. Let it idle on it's own with all accesories off. Leave the car alone for at least ten minutes. I didn't believe this at first but it did wonders for the car.
At least do that since it's easy. Then you can move on to other things if it doesn't help.
At least do that since it's easy. Then you can move on to other things if it doesn't help.