MitsuJDM

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, trying the relearn is simple and easy. And if it doesn't work, oh well, it's ruled out and it's simple to do.

avengerhed

iTrader: (13)

I'm having exactly the same problem:

Stock turbo, hardpipe w/apexi filter, forge RS recirculated, ecu-controlled boost... the car's been 100% fine for 60,000 miles and then recently i started experiencing the WG flutter... soon after that I noticed that the car would stall when slowing to a stop.

I figure that it must be vacuum-related (exascerbated by braking) but I have not had time to diagnose or correct the issue. MAF's clean, cams are stock, timing is fine, compression at 60k was dead-on (im at 64k now).

I will start looking for leaks in the WG actuation lines...let me know if you discover anything and I'll do the same...

sti.this

could be the iscv or 02 sensor on its way out. with you aying everything is fine and at 60k+ miles, things start messing up, that makes me think its something that wears out around that timeframe.

I just forked out the cash for a new iscv, and am still having issues in closed loop. I think it is my o2 sensor. runs great in 100% open loop, though. Im at 67k and things are starting to show their age. I need to put her down for a little while.

avengerhed

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for the feedback- i'll definitely take a look at the iscv. As far as the front o2 sensor goes- around 40k miles, the car popped a front o2 CEL about 10 times (intermittently) but I never had a problem with it again (so i thought).

What problems are you still having in closed-loop?

Nomad4g63

iTrader: (16)

I have have the Forge DV bov, put the MR DV on and the car would stall even worse. Im putting the TIAL Q on soon, and will have Jestr take a look.

I replaced the idle position sensor and nothing changed @ all.

[GBU]Moon

iTrader: (1)

I recently had the same problem, and it was a faulty IAC Valve. For a temporary fix, turn the screw on the back of your throttle body out to raise the idle. Keep in mind though, this is only masking your problem. Replacing the IAC Valve is pretty easy, but you're going to spend $200-$400 on a new one. I had a friend who is a mechanic test the voltages on the existing IAC Valve before I sprung for a new one.

BTW, I have an Evo 8 and the replacement IAC Valve I bought was off an Evo 9. They looked very different, but it works fine.

I heard all the same responses though, boost leak, vacuum leak, major exhaust leak, gunky manifold, etc.., and it was the Idle Air Control Valve from the start.

I should probably also mention, the IAC Valve is right below the throttle body intake and it's held on with three phillips screws.

Another sign is my car ran fine once it was warmed up, it would only die at stops while at a cold temp.

Sean@Iveytune

iTrader: (14)

Does it hold boost with the new BOV?

Sean