My Evo was great--till I lost my clutch at 5K
#31
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Originally posted by NRG
Nope........Infact, I feel like I got the slower ones......But anyways 5.1 claim from Mitsu isn't etched in the stone. It really depends on the driver. I know many Evo owners do 4.8 bone stock without launching. 5.1 is a very very modest claim.
Nope........Infact, I feel like I got the slower ones......But anyways 5.1 claim from Mitsu isn't etched in the stone. It really depends on the driver. I know many Evo owners do 4.8 bone stock without launching. 5.1 is a very very modest claim.
Edit: I should say stock evo's can not do this.
Last edited by lil'evil_evo; Oct 8, 2003 at 04:33 PM.
#32
Originally posted by sr20det91
That the stupidest thing you've said yet.
Why would
put tires on the car that are sub-par to save ignorant people like you from toasting their clutch. Personally, I'd rather have the grippy tires that don't let loose on a road course or ralley course, where my stock clutch wouldn't be slipping anyway.
That the stupidest thing you've said yet.
Why would
![Mitsubishi Logo](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/mitsu_logo.gif)
Not me.
Let me explain it using small words.
Harden drivetrain. Toughen clutch. If anything slips, it should be the tires.
#34
Fact:
Clutches are failing at an elevated rate with Evos.
Fact:
It is not happening with WRX's, normal or STi.
Fact:
It is not happening with Eclipses.
Those of you who haven't had your clutch fail yet really should be thanking people like me who are finding this out early AND FIGHTING ABOUT IT.
When you lose your clutch at 25,000 miles just because you don't drive as hard, you remember me if Mitsu replaces it for you because of an original design flaw.
Here's another fact: Some people talk a LOT and show themselves to know NOTHING. Nothing about cars, nothing about business, nothing about engineering, nothing about manners.
Clutches are failing at an elevated rate with Evos.
Fact:
It is not happening with WRX's, normal or STi.
Fact:
It is not happening with Eclipses.
Those of you who haven't had your clutch fail yet really should be thanking people like me who are finding this out early AND FIGHTING ABOUT IT.
When you lose your clutch at 25,000 miles just because you don't drive as hard, you remember me if Mitsu replaces it for you because of an original design flaw.
Here's another fact: Some people talk a LOT and show themselves to know NOTHING. Nothing about cars, nothing about business, nothing about engineering, nothing about manners.
#35
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Harden drivetrain. Toughen clutch.
However,you seem to have a problem with the concept of design perameters. Once again.
![Mitsubishi Logo](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/mitsu_logo.gif)
Why? You ask. Because they needed to keep cost down. Plus, the equipment we did get works well enough for most. I personally have 10 or more hard launches on my car, nasty clutch smell and all. I'm at 10k miles and have yet to have my clutch slip under any conditions except launches.
I chalk this up to not going out and doing repeated 0-60 runs, as you stated you like to indulge in, nor do I regularly abuse my car in any other fashion.
So my advice to you is, either go find the guy you sold your Viper to and get it back OR stop your whining and go get yourself an aftermarket clutch.
#36
Evolved Member
Originally posted by viper2evo
With 90% of performance cars, even AWD cars, it's the tires, or engine bog. With this one, it's the clutch.
It's not just my opinion--the ACT Clutch expert agrees.
TT
With 90% of performance cars, even AWD cars, it's the tires, or engine bog. With this one, it's the clutch.
It's not just my opinion--the ACT Clutch expert agrees.
TT
From your previous post it sounded as if the tires should be deisgned to let go first, because of the all the other "AWD cars" that give you engine bod, or slipping tires. My point it the Evo isn't like the previous Audis and Subarus this country has been treated to. Its grip has exceeded all of them, that's why it handles so well. So why necessarily is it supposed act exactly like the "90%" you are talking about when it is top of the heap performance wise?
Wow, an ACT spokesman saying the clutch is the weak link, no suprise there. I like the ACT 2100 in my car, but if I were driving a completely stock Eclipse and driving it hard enough to get every ounce of performance out of it, I would have to expect things like worn clutches, worn brake pads and cupped out tires - its just has to be. That's why there's the aftermarket.
Last edited by GPTourer; Oct 8, 2003 at 04:51 PM.
#37
Originally posted by sr20det91
I personally have 10 or more hard launches on my car, nasty clutch smell and all.
I personally have 10 or more hard launches on my car, nasty clutch smell and all.
What you describe is WORSE than what happened to my car.
You heard it here first--your clutch will fail within another 10K miles.
I'll look for an apology from you around that time.
![lol](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/lol.gif)
#39
Listening to some of these guys run their mouths leaves me with the impression that it is IMPOSSIBLE for Mitsu or any other manufacturer to have made a mistake with their design choices.
If 10% of the clutches fail at 20K miles, why, that's just cutting costs.
If 20% fail at 10K miles, quit whining and just buy more clutches.
I wonder what their standard of proof is that a mistake was made?
100% at 10 miles?
Let me add something positive to this discussion, as I seem to be the only one contributing anything here:
WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A FAILING CLUTCH (You may not expect it--my dealer didn't)
Most people think that clutch failures are characterized by the RPM's freewheeling up to redline after a certain point.
My dealer thought this, and lost some time switching out turbo parts when what was happening clearly could only be caused by slippage.
How it may begin:
When you are driving, you will notice a slight, strange, jump in RPMs in the higher gears when crossing your torque peak.
Not a big jump--just 100rpm's at first. After the bump, the clutch hooks up as normal.
It won't happen in first gear (because it's shorter and has more of a TQ advantage over the other gears, I assume).
Slowly it will get worse.
In a few hundred miles, you will find it slipping 1000 RPMS. It still will hook up after that, if your case is like mine.
But the fact is, it's worn, and may probably be gone.
(Now, I took mine in the day after I noticed the first slippage. My experience with HP cars told me precisely what was happening. However, the service guys there didn't think it was the clutch, and had me keep driving [even though I volunteered to park it immediately])
If 10% of the clutches fail at 20K miles, why, that's just cutting costs.
If 20% fail at 10K miles, quit whining and just buy more clutches.
I wonder what their standard of proof is that a mistake was made?
100% at 10 miles?
Let me add something positive to this discussion, as I seem to be the only one contributing anything here:
WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A FAILING CLUTCH (You may not expect it--my dealer didn't)
Most people think that clutch failures are characterized by the RPM's freewheeling up to redline after a certain point.
My dealer thought this, and lost some time switching out turbo parts when what was happening clearly could only be caused by slippage.
How it may begin:
When you are driving, you will notice a slight, strange, jump in RPMs in the higher gears when crossing your torque peak.
Not a big jump--just 100rpm's at first. After the bump, the clutch hooks up as normal.
It won't happen in first gear (because it's shorter and has more of a TQ advantage over the other gears, I assume).
Slowly it will get worse.
In a few hundred miles, you will find it slipping 1000 RPMS. It still will hook up after that, if your case is like mine.
But the fact is, it's worn, and may probably be gone.
(Now, I took mine in the day after I noticed the first slippage. My experience with HP cars told me precisely what was happening. However, the service guys there didn't think it was the clutch, and had me keep driving [even though I volunteered to park it immediately])
#41
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How often did you replace the tires on the ACR? I bet within 4 mos or 6700 miles of launching a viper you'll have more money spent on tires. So whats the cost on the wearable items of the Viper I'm sure 335 tires are pricey as well. Drag Radials?
#42
Originally posted by zlancer
damn...whats with the negative additude here about people whining?? thats uncalled for and very immature. good luck with your car viper2evo!
damn...whats with the negative additude here about people whining?? thats uncalled for and very immature. good luck with your car viper2evo!
![Bouncy Blob](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/b_yellow.gif)
![Bouncy Blob](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/b_yellow.gif)
I understand their position, though. There has been SO much discussion on failing clutches here already (and theirs hasn't failed, so clearly it's all bogus
![lol](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/lol.gif)
Most people simply would move on, though, politely ignoring posts that bored them.
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#43
Originally posted by Mister2zx3
How often did you replace the tires on the ACR? I bet within 4 mos or 6700 miles of launching a viper you'll have more money spent on tires. So whats the cost on the wearable items of the Viper I'm sure 335 tires are pricey as well. Drag Radials?
How often did you replace the tires on the ACR? I bet within 4 mos or 6700 miles of launching a viper you'll have more money spent on tires. So whats the cost on the wearable items of the Viper I'm sure 335 tires are pricey as well. Drag Radials?
![Smilie](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
BTW, my last set of 335's was 180 each from the tire rack--and that was for Pilot Sports.
Somehow I don't think I'm going to get that kind of deal on these.
![Big Grin](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
By the way--my first set of Pilots lasted 16,000 miles. I'm told that these Yoko's are good for 10K if you drive hard.
But you know, I knew that before I bought the car, so it's all good.
What I didn't know was that the clutch was about 8 inches across and made of hard cheese.
Anyone want a great deal on my Evo? Brand new clutch!
Email me for a price.
#44
It's an interesting quandry.
On the one hand, part of me thinks, "It's a sub $30k car, what did you think you were getting? Mitsu isn't selling the Evo out of the kindness of their hearts, or taking a loss. They can't just magically make a car that outperforms all cars even thousands of dollars more expensive."
But, another part of me thinks, "If they're going to make a car to fit under a certain price, and knowingly use a clutch that cannot take the kind of treatment that a large percentage of drivers will dish out, then they should at least have a disclaimer in the owner's manual about methods of launching the car. No launches above 3000 RPM or something."
Then we really wouldn't have anything to complain about, and word would have gotten out immediately how NOT to use the car.
Incidentally, read the comparison of the Evo and STI in Car and Driver (easily the best car mag in America). They explicitly state (and I quote), "One word of warning to those who might try to duplicate our acceleration numbers: Don't. These are not drag racers, and what a stopwatch considers a good start a dealership service department considers a lucrative one."
So, I've done the research, and I know what I'm getting into when I get my Evo (next week). No hard launches, unless I decide they're worth the money...
On the one hand, part of me thinks, "It's a sub $30k car, what did you think you were getting? Mitsu isn't selling the Evo out of the kindness of their hearts, or taking a loss. They can't just magically make a car that outperforms all cars even thousands of dollars more expensive."
But, another part of me thinks, "If they're going to make a car to fit under a certain price, and knowingly use a clutch that cannot take the kind of treatment that a large percentage of drivers will dish out, then they should at least have a disclaimer in the owner's manual about methods of launching the car. No launches above 3000 RPM or something."
Then we really wouldn't have anything to complain about, and word would have gotten out immediately how NOT to use the car.
Incidentally, read the comparison of the Evo and STI in Car and Driver (easily the best car mag in America). They explicitly state (and I quote), "One word of warning to those who might try to duplicate our acceleration numbers: Don't. These are not drag racers, and what a stopwatch considers a good start a dealership service department considers a lucrative one."
So, I've done the research, and I know what I'm getting into when I get my Evo (next week). No hard launches, unless I decide they're worth the money...
![Spinning Smile](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/spin.gif)
#45
Originally posted by Mister2zx3
I bet within 4 mos or 6700 miles of launching a viper you'll have more money spent on tires.
I bet within 4 mos or 6700 miles of launching a viper you'll have more money spent on tires.
To get good launches on a Viper, you must LIMIT wheelspin to a bare minimum.
This means you have to "feather" the clutch as you launch. Clearly, this requires a TOUGH clutch, which the Viper (and Camaro, for that matter) have. (they share the T-56 tranny)
But the clutch doesn't FAIL. (Neither does it on the Camaro)
You CAN'T really feather the Evo clutch. It has so little hookup (pressure) that if you try, the engine will just spin on it, surely the cause of that smell another poster talked about.
So, as I said, you have to launch smoothly and firmly, but this will not save your clutch from early wear, as it's designed, apparently, to consume itself.