Evo died...
#16
well....
#8 , 20A fuse under the hood...."engine control" is all that I got for a definition, to what all it supports I have no clue. The car is running, started right up. I still cannot hear the fuel pump cycling on, but its obviously working. I just feel like a damn idiot, I have slacked on doing the proper preventative maintenance and now its biting me in the ***
#8 , 20A fuse under the hood...."engine control" is all that I got for a definition, to what all it supports I have no clue. The car is running, started right up. I still cannot hear the fuel pump cycling on, but its obviously working. I just feel like a damn idiot, I have slacked on doing the proper preventative maintenance and now its biting me in the ***
#17
well as i said, i changed a blown fuse and it started right up....have no idea what the fuse was for, i DO know it wasnt the fuel pump...
Taking it to my buddy's shop and stripping the interior, checking ALL the connections I can in the car, siliconing all the grommets. I am sure my moonroof is leaking too as it is mis-aligned, so gotta fix that. Doing the brakes as well. Walbro is going to be on order, as well as looking to do timing belt and all the jazz that goes with it as soon as the tax man decides to pay me. feel like an idiot right now...
Taking it to my buddy's shop and stripping the interior, checking ALL the connections I can in the car, siliconing all the grommets. I am sure my moonroof is leaking too as it is mis-aligned, so gotta fix that. Doing the brakes as well. Walbro is going to be on order, as well as looking to do timing belt and all the jazz that goes with it as soon as the tax man decides to pay me. feel like an idiot right now...
#20
well She's in the garage now...
Same damn thing happened to me today - actually went through 13 #8 20A fuses (same one every time). car would shut off while driving, then if I put a new fuse in it would either 1: blow as soon as I turn the key to "on" without starting, 2: start and run with no problems UNTIL I came to a complete stop, or 3: would start then blow as soon as I touched the throttle.
I spent a good amount of time removing interior pieces and headliner (moon roof needs to be fixed, which yeah, could be causing some of my electrical issues). I am FINALLY getting the connections in the junction block at the drivers left kick panel addressed, BUT this damn fuse blowing I simply cannot see being related. There has to be a short or something is grounding out, right? Here are some things that are concerning me.
I have an aftermarket alarm (compustar) w/ a turbo timer built in as well as auto start. That equals a ****-ton of other wiring and who knows what issues. I have a boost gauge thats wired in with the headlamps, and upon removing it I noticed that the guy who put it in ran a screw directly through one of the wires AND the vacuum line (awesome) but why would that be blowing a fuse? I do notice where the throttle cable goes through the fire-wall, that there is some orange wire (no idea what) that runs awfully damn close to the cable; could this be it? The wire doesnt appear to be scored or burnt, etc.
Here is a run-down of my problems:
-Car "dies" while driving, ALL accessories (lights radio etc) still work; #8 20A fuse blows "engine control
-Dash needles, HVAC, radio lights do not work ONLY once the headlamps are turned "ON"
-Wipers do still come on, on their own from time to time.
I do realize that some of this is a result of the wiring in the junction block, and IS getting addressed, BUT does anyone have a clue as to what could be blowing this fuse and killing the engine while running? I DO also know that the TPS as well as the fuel pump run to this circuit at some point...?
relevant mods, that I can think of, are as follows:
MBC; boost gauge; alarm w/ auto-start and turbo timer; "Trust" guages
Thanks SO MUCH in advance of course
Same damn thing happened to me today - actually went through 13 #8 20A fuses (same one every time). car would shut off while driving, then if I put a new fuse in it would either 1: blow as soon as I turn the key to "on" without starting, 2: start and run with no problems UNTIL I came to a complete stop, or 3: would start then blow as soon as I touched the throttle.
I spent a good amount of time removing interior pieces and headliner (moon roof needs to be fixed, which yeah, could be causing some of my electrical issues). I am FINALLY getting the connections in the junction block at the drivers left kick panel addressed, BUT this damn fuse blowing I simply cannot see being related. There has to be a short or something is grounding out, right? Here are some things that are concerning me.
I have an aftermarket alarm (compustar) w/ a turbo timer built in as well as auto start. That equals a ****-ton of other wiring and who knows what issues. I have a boost gauge thats wired in with the headlamps, and upon removing it I noticed that the guy who put it in ran a screw directly through one of the wires AND the vacuum line (awesome) but why would that be blowing a fuse? I do notice where the throttle cable goes through the fire-wall, that there is some orange wire (no idea what) that runs awfully damn close to the cable; could this be it? The wire doesnt appear to be scored or burnt, etc.
Here is a run-down of my problems:
-Car "dies" while driving, ALL accessories (lights radio etc) still work; #8 20A fuse blows "engine control
-Dash needles, HVAC, radio lights do not work ONLY once the headlamps are turned "ON"
-Wipers do still come on, on their own from time to time.
I do realize that some of this is a result of the wiring in the junction block, and IS getting addressed, BUT does anyone have a clue as to what could be blowing this fuse and killing the engine while running? I DO also know that the TPS as well as the fuel pump run to this circuit at some point...?
relevant mods, that I can think of, are as follows:
MBC; boost gauge; alarm w/ auto-start and turbo timer; "Trust" guages
Thanks SO MUCH in advance of course
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#22
Evolved Member
iTrader: (12)
I've heard that running OUT of gas is terrible for EFI vehicles. I assumed it had something to do with the system not being calibrated to ever be empty, but just didn't know for sure. How is running the system low bad, and how low are we talking here? I've driven a few miles with the gas light on and then I go fill it up. Should I be avoiding the gas light even coming on? Thanks for the answers, guys.
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