AEM WB & Boost Gauge Wiring Issue - What can I tap that has constant power?
Feb 19, 2010, 12:55 PM
#1
AEM WB & Boost Gauge Wiring Issue - What can I tap that has constant power?
So I need some help...what wire can I tap into that is at least 10 amp fused and has continuous power from the on-to-start positions? 
I've installed a new wide band and boost gauge from AEM. The power sources I tapped are causing problems. The gauges I purchased have auto-zero features and the "auto-zeroing" is not getting an accurate reading because I have a power source that drops power in the start position. Basically, the gauge tries to reset when I start the car, the pressure sending unit is getting the wrong "zero reading" and causing my boost gauge to read around 10 lbs off.
Thanks
I've installed a new wide band and boost gauge from AEM. The power sources I tapped are causing problems. The gauges I purchased have auto-zero features and the "auto-zeroing" is not getting an accurate reading because I have a power source that drops power in the start position. Basically, the gauge tries to reset when I start the car, the pressure sending unit is getting the wrong "zero reading" and causing my boost gauge to read around 10 lbs off.
Thanks
Feb 19, 2010, 05:18 PM
#4
The black /w white stripe wire in your steering column is the wire you want. Take out the three screws under your steering wheel, drop down the tilt lever, and pull off the lower housing. On the left hand side you will see a bundle of about 8 heavy gauge wires running to the ignition key switch and it is right in there.
The characteristics of the black /w white stripe wire are as follows.
Key off: No power.
Key ACC: No power.
Key on: 12V
Start: 12V (does not shut off while cranking)
I have found that this is the ideal wire to use for boost gauges because it lets you listen to the radio without the gauges coming on and possibly beeping for no oil pressure, and it does not re-set the gauges while cranking.
The characteristics of the black /w white stripe wire are as follows.
Key off: No power.
Key ACC: No power.
Key on: 12V
Start: 12V (does not shut off while cranking)
I have found that this is the ideal wire to use for boost gauges because it lets you listen to the radio without the gauges coming on and possibly beeping for no oil pressure, and it does not re-set the gauges while cranking.
Feb 19, 2010, 06:38 PM
#5
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The black /w white stripe wire in your steering column is the wire you want. Take out the three screws under your steering wheel, drop down the tilt lever, and pull off the lower housing. On the left hand side you will see a bundle of about 8 heavy gauge wires running to the ignition key switch and it is right in there.
The characteristics of the black /w white stripe wire are as follows.
Key off: No power.
Key ACC: No power.
Key on: 12V
Start: 12V (does not shut off while cranking)
I have found that this is the ideal wire to use for boost gauges because it lets you listen to the radio without the gauges coming on and possibly beeping for no oil pressure, and it does not re-set the gauges while cranking.
The characteristics of the black /w white stripe wire are as follows.
Key off: No power.
Key ACC: No power.
Key on: 12V
Start: 12V (does not shut off while cranking)
I have found that this is the ideal wire to use for boost gauges because it lets you listen to the radio without the gauges coming on and possibly beeping for no oil pressure, and it does not re-set the gauges while cranking.
Also getting ready to install a boost gauge and wideband.
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Feb 19, 2010, 10:45 PM
#8
The stereo shuts off when you hit the start position...this causes gauges with auto zeroing features to get an incorrect reading because in the split second it takes to start the car and restart the gauge it will get a false zero.
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