Does Evo suppose to shut off when you remove key?
Apr 16, 2010, 09:09 PM
#16
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The turbo on the evo is watercooled as well, right? (excuse my newb question, but I havnt had the pleasure of diggin far into my eo yet!
)
But if the turbo is watercooled as well, a turbo timer is not necessary, IMO. I only ran one when I had my 1g running on a oil cooled only turbo.
)But if the turbo is watercooled as well, a turbo timer is not necessary, IMO. I only ran one when I had my 1g running on a oil cooled only turbo.
Apr 16, 2010, 09:09 PM
#17
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turbo timer has nothing to do with the cool down, it allows for the oil to drain from the turbo so the journals dont go bad. If oil sits in the turbo it will create smudge and through off the shaft balance which means disaster.
Apr 16, 2010, 09:14 PM
#19
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It does in a way help with cool down. your not making the turbo hotter by runnin boost. you are letting it continue to pump oil through so it cools down and does not cause the oil to sear and cause build up... so it does have something to do with it as oil cools the majority of the car.
Apr 16, 2010, 10:55 PM
#20
I have a TT installed, but I use it maybe 3 times a year for when I'm in a hurry and have to exit the car after driving at mid range engine speeds (3k+). Even cruising at interstate speeds, closed loop, is lean enough to get the manifold, turbo glowing red.
I live about 1 min from the interstate and I can exit , drive to my house, reasonable and prudent, pop the hood in my driveway at night and see the manifold and turbo glowing red.
Coking impedes the oil flow to the bearing/bushing and that's where your problem is created.
Excessive center cartridge temps, oil that's not suitable for high temps, wide multi-viscosity range oil and excessive oil change intervals all contribute to coking.
Last edited by EVO8emUp; Apr 16, 2010 at 11:05 PM.
Apr 17, 2010, 12:41 PM
#21
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WTF, are you serious? It has everything with cooling down and it is not to allow oil to drain from the journals. If that happened, you turbo would be shot. In a non BB turbo, the oil is the only thing keeping the surfaces from making contact. It's called sludge, not smudge.
I have a TT installed, but I use it maybe 3 times a year for when I'm in a hurry and have to exit the car after driving at mid range engine speeds (3k+). Even cruising at interstate speeds, closed loop, is lean enough to get the manifold, turbo glowing red.
I live about 1 min from the interstate and I can exit , drive to my house, reasonable and prudent, pop the hood in my driveway at night and see the manifold and turbo glowing red.
Coking impedes the oil flow to the bearing/bushing and that's where your problem is created.
Excessive center cartridge temps, oil that's not suitable for high temps, wide multi-viscosity range oil and excessive oil change intervals all contribute to coking.
I have a TT installed, but I use it maybe 3 times a year for when I'm in a hurry and have to exit the car after driving at mid range engine speeds (3k+). Even cruising at interstate speeds, closed loop, is lean enough to get the manifold, turbo glowing red.
I live about 1 min from the interstate and I can exit , drive to my house, reasonable and prudent, pop the hood in my driveway at night and see the manifold and turbo glowing red.
Coking impedes the oil flow to the bearing/bushing and that's where your problem is created.
Excessive center cartridge temps, oil that's not suitable for high temps, wide multi-viscosity range oil and excessive oil change intervals all contribute to coking.
Apr 17, 2010, 09:53 PM
#23
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You may also ask why you need the parking brake as well? If you ever watched the Tom Cruise movie Risky Business, you'll know. Yes, in spite of all I've said above, it is possible to knock the lever out of first and into neutral, at which point the car can roll away. Down a hill. Out a dock. Into the lake. Very expensive.
Apr 17, 2010, 10:01 PM
#24
the fact that the transmission is connected to the engine means that it can't turn while the engine is off. First gear is the best gear to do this in because higher gears could let the car move a bit if the engine turns just a tiny bit - first gear creates the greatest resistance.
You may also ask why you need the parking brake as well? If you ever watched the Tom Cruise movie Risky Business, you'll know. Yes, in spite of all I've said above, it is possible to knock the lever out of first and into neutral, at which point the car can roll away. Down a hill. Out a dock. Into the lake. Very expensive.
You may also ask why you need the parking brake as well? If you ever watched the Tom Cruise movie Risky Business, you'll know. Yes, in spite of all I've said above, it is possible to knock the lever out of first and into neutral, at which point the car can roll away. Down a hill. Out a dock. Into the lake. Very expensive.
also reverse has the most resistance not first. reverse is a smaller gear than 1st
i always park my car in reverse when its off.
Apr 17, 2010, 10:14 PM
#25
The turbo on the evo is watercooled as well, right? (excuse my newb question, but I havnt had the pleasure of diggin far into my eo yet! )
But if the turbo is watercooled as well, a turbo timer is not necessary, IMO. I only ran one when I had my 1g running on a oil cooled only turbo.
)But if the turbo is watercooled as well, a turbo timer is not necessary, IMO. I only ran one when I had my 1g running on a oil cooled only turbo.
The turbo timer allows for an extra allotted time for the engine to run at idle to allow oil and water to run through the lines connected to the turbo to cool it.
After immediately shutting off the car after using the turbo a good amount, the oil in the lines would be hot and then sit in the lines where it was after pressure was stopped from being shut off. The turbo timer keeps the water and oil moving through the lines allowing it to cool doing so by only being at idle rpms therefore, expelling some excess heat which would cause oil to be caked up in the lines over time.
A turbo timer is not necessarily needed. Unless you were running the car kind of hard, it is ok to shut off. However, what I do it just let it run 10seconds extra after parking the car while I gather my belongings from inside the car.
Apr 18, 2010, 11:12 AM
#27
Evolving Member
The turbo on the evo is watercooled as well, right? (excuse my newb question, but I havnt had the pleasure of diggin far into my eo yet! )
But if the turbo is watercooled as well, a turbo timer is not necessary, IMO. I only ran one when I had my 1g running on a oil cooled only turbo.
)But if the turbo is watercooled as well, a turbo timer is not necessary, IMO. I only ran one when I had my 1g running on a oil cooled only turbo.
ur excused! I think a turbo timer is important.
Last edited by Aaron20; Apr 18, 2010 at 11:18 AM.
Apr 18, 2010, 11:49 AM
#29
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Dont people usually do the turbo timer or let the car run for 30 seconds , ofcourse it all depends if you were just racing or not but other than that before you pull up to where your gonna stop i figure you would just drive easy on it for those 20 or 30 seconds and then just shut it off like a normal car.
I mean think about how many turbo cars are out there that are daily driven and beat on by people who dont even know they have turbos and never let their car run before shutting it off, so in my opinion take it easy before you stop and let it run for like ten seconds and that should be good, unless ofcourse you were just beating the hell out of it and you dont have a factory tubro or car.
I think you should always put the e brake up before anything and as long as you put it up good you should never have a problem if working good, even if let in gear it should just stall out.
I mean think about how many turbo cars are out there that are daily driven and beat on by people who dont even know they have turbos and never let their car run before shutting it off, so in my opinion take it easy before you stop and let it run for like ten seconds and that should be good, unless ofcourse you were just beating the hell out of it and you dont have a factory tubro or car.
I think you should always put the e brake up before anything and as long as you put it up good you should never have a problem if working good, even if let in gear it should just stall out.
Apr 20, 2010, 09:17 PM
#30
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WTF, are you serious? It has everything with cooling down and it is not to allow oil to drain from the journals. If that happened, you turbo would be shot. In a non BB turbo, the oil is the only thing keeping the surfaces from making contact. It's called sludge, not smudge.
I have a TT installed, but I use it maybe 3 times a year for when I'm in a hurry and have to exit the car after driving at mid range engine speeds (3k+). Even cruising at interstate speeds, closed loop, is lean enough to get the manifold, turbo glowing red.
I live about 1 min from the interstate and I can exit , drive to my house, reasonable and prudent, pop the hood in my driveway at night and see the manifold and turbo glowing red.
Coking impedes the oil flow to the bearing/bushing and that's where your problem is created.
Excessive center cartridge temps, oil that's not suitable for high temps, wide multi-viscosity range oil and excessive oil change intervals all contribute to coking.
I have a TT installed, but I use it maybe 3 times a year for when I'm in a hurry and have to exit the car after driving at mid range engine speeds (3k+). Even cruising at interstate speeds, closed loop, is lean enough to get the manifold, turbo glowing red.
I live about 1 min from the interstate and I can exit , drive to my house, reasonable and prudent, pop the hood in my driveway at night and see the manifold and turbo glowing red.
Coking impedes the oil flow to the bearing/bushing and that's where your problem is created.
Excessive center cartridge temps, oil that's not suitable for high temps, wide multi-viscosity range oil and excessive oil change intervals all contribute to coking.