New cams mivec problem
#16
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Aaaaahmmmm!!! I'm not sure where you got that info from but the oil pickup/supply for the mivec actually comes from that metal pipe with the fittings at the side of the head. the oil supply comes directly from the engine block at high pressure. So i don't think your info is anywhere near correct. Also it takes some amount of oil pressure to get rid of the noise, that's why it will only go away once the motor is started. The fact that it has none right now does not prevent the motor for starting. The fact is that there will be no advance on the mivec cam while cranking, ie it's quite similar to setting the the values in the mivec map to 0 at idle, which is normally the case once you move to larger cams to enable a smooth idle.
HERE IS THE SOLUTION
We have done MANY MANY head builds and such whre the head has been off of a IX for quite some time so the oil drains from the mivec solenoid and will have that bad clicking sound while turning the engine over or running.
We always pour oil straight into the head with the valve cover off right over where the mivec picks its oil up from the head. Turn the crank by hand. Sometimes it takes up to 4-5 revolutions of the engine to get the thing to fill with oil. You can head it click just by turning it with your hand. As soon as it stops clicking you are done. Start it up and you should have no problems.
If your car is not starting i would do as someone else suggested and make sure the mivec gear with no tension on the belt is fully turned backwards and in the retard position so it cannot jump.
We have done MANY MANY head builds and such whre the head has been off of a IX for quite some time so the oil drains from the mivec solenoid and will have that bad clicking sound while turning the engine over or running.
We always pour oil straight into the head with the valve cover off right over where the mivec picks its oil up from the head. Turn the crank by hand. Sometimes it takes up to 4-5 revolutions of the engine to get the thing to fill with oil. You can head it click just by turning it with your hand. As soon as it stops clicking you are done. Start it up and you should have no problems.
If your car is not starting i would do as someone else suggested and make sure the mivec gear with no tension on the belt is fully turned backwards and in the retard position so it cannot jump.
#17
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With regards to the rocker arm that popped out, as you mentioned, it suggests that you definatley made some mechanical errors while installing the cams. I seriously recommend that you not attempt to crank the engine and get some professional help. That's an expensive motor to play around with and i don't think you'd want to damage valves or anything like that. It would only cost you more. I also don't recall you mentioning that you had discharge the pressure in the lifters.
Last edited by JDM-Evo9MR; Jun 9, 2010 at 11:29 AM.
#18
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for the record. mine clicked like beotch for while on 1st startup. But it did fire right up. I have previously made the mistake before of getting the dowel pin in the wrong spot on the mivec hub. i would put a compression tester on it, Although you should be able to hear in the starter if it has compression, if it doesn't it just sounds flat and monotone
#19
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Aaaaahmmmm!!! I'm not sure where you got that info from but the oil pickup/supply for the mivec actually comes from that metal pipe with the fittings at the side of the head. the oil supply comes directly from the engine block at high pressure. So i don't think your info is anywhere near correct. Also it takes some amount of oil pressure to get rid of the noise, that's why it will only go away once the motor is started. The fact that it has none right now does not prevent the motor for starting. The fact is that there will be no advance on the mivec cam while cranking, ie it's quite similar to setting the the values in the mivec map to 0 at idle, which is normally the case once you move to larger cams to enable a smooth idle.
yes i know that. you completely missed what i was saying
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