xmaciek82x

iTrader: (14)

Measure the gap.

white_evo27

iTrader: (1)

+1

check ur plugs, wires, coils...
happened to me after i got tuned from ivey, new plugs and all good to go!

RussK3

So if i'm not mistaken the correct gap for the evo is .024?

xmaciek82x

iTrader: (14)

^ yes

barneyb

I remember, on my turbo DSM, the same plug it used was also being used in Honda lawnmowers. So, for which use was it pre-gapped for?

20gmr

iTrader: (7)

sounds like spark to me as well. See if the problem is more noticeable going up a hill ( more load) or if its raining/wet /humid out see if the problem gets worse.

drifthobo

iTrader: (3)

Im curious about this too... Im tuned at 24psi too and I also have the knock light (when my check engine light flashes for each count of knock). It flashes about 3-5 counts at high rpms between 4k-6k on my 3rd -5th wot pulls. What do you guys think?

gsrboi80

iTrader: (38)

Not how it works. You set a value for slow blink and then a value for fast blink of the CEL. If you see it blink slow you'll know that knock exceeded your slow blink number and if it blinks fast yu'll know you've exceeded your fast blink value

drifthobo

iTrader: (3)

so when im blinking slow, I've exceeded the knock that I am suppose to have at that value and I should inform my tuner?

Raptord

iTrader: (10)

If your slow knock value is 3 and fast knock is 6, then anything from 3-5 counts of knock will trigger the slow flashing. Anything 6 and up will trigger the fast flashing.

RussK3

Now that you mention it. It does act up more when it's humid or raining. I'm checking the gap 2morrow.

RussK3

I called ngk they said the one step colders were gap to oem specs. which he said was .032. so i will be gapping mine to about .025 whick is the lowest my gap tool goes. this should hopefully fix the problem. is there a consequence of having the gap to close?

20gmr

iTrader: (7)

not a gap issue then. Take the plugs out and look closely at them for cracks or thin black lines. This is called carbon tracing ...you can Google that. My advice would be to order a new set of wires,they are cheap, and get a hold of some dielectric grease to waterproof all the connections. Put it inside the boots and on the top electrode of the plug.

RussK3

I measured the gap today with the tool thats goes down to .025 they were right about there. I talked to some 1 else. they said it could've been a boost spike and the car was reacting to that? not sure...

Zenoid

i have the SAME exact problem.

the other day i was with my tuner and we pulled timing where the knock was. (5k onwards)

running RON 97 11degrees up top 11.2 AFR.

problem is DIRECTLY after the tune everything was fine for an hour. After that the knock came back again.

i changed the plugs, DENSO IK24(i didnt gap them but i will), havent done a boost leak test but visually everything looks fine. boost holds at 1.9bar with no problems. and the best part is even at 1.1bar it knocks. initially i thought it was the octane level of the petrol. so we detuned the tune. even than its still the same.


than i got fed up, yesterday i threw in an octance booster. the car performed much better with little knocks BUT nonetheless still knocking.


and everytime i change gear the check light goes blinking, my tuner says when i change gear it causes a rich state that makes the engine knock.. please help i feel like blowing up the car...