wheres the 35r crowd at?
Jul 20, 2010, 06:26 PM
#37
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- 35R is ball bearing and oil/water cooled so it's more reliable for starters.
- Holds boost throughout the power band.
- makes more on the top end.
- Is easily capable of 600whp-700whp given the setup, fuel, aggressiveness of tune, etc.
- Built 35R cars are worth more in general than stock frame turbo cars given the right supporting mods.
- Nothing beats the sound of a big DBB turbo spooling up, especially if you have an external wastegate.
The FP Black is the only turbo that would even relatively compare to a 35R but even still it'll fall off uptop where as the 35R will hold strong. It's also easier on your motor specifically because the 35R makes less torque than a red or a black usually.
I'm a die hard big turbo guy.. The stock frame turbo thing is cool if you're just wanting to build a torquey road race car but for highway/drag racing I'd definitely rather have a big turbo setup. And if you compare either of those to the new HTA3582 or 3586 or similar turbo.. then game over for the FP guys because both of those turbos consistently make at least 650-750whp.
Jul 20, 2010, 06:36 PM
#38
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Sorry about my "who cares about cheap FP turbos" rant.. I haven't dyno'd my car yet as I am still waiting to install my valvesprings/retainers, BF272 cams, and second fuel pump, but I did run my buddies HX40 2G GST who made 570whp on a dyno that reads between a MD and a dynojet and I stayed right next to him until I had to shift into 5th gear.. then he started passing me. : (.
I was on 35R .82 ar @ 28psi, stock head, stock valvetrain, stock intake and tb, with BC 272 cams, RNR 3" fmic, AEM EMS, E85, 2.0L, 10:1cr, 2.5" IC piping, no intake pipe on the turbo, AWD motorports T3 Manifold, Tial 44mm External WG, Tial 50mm bov.
Running 12.2/12.3 AFR and 16 degrees of timing all the way across the power band.
Wait til I turn the boost up to 35-40psi, throw some more timing at it, throw in my new cams, and am revving to 9k+... Will be completely different car. On the highway I bet I'd take almost any FP Red/FP black car to school.
I was on 35R .82 ar @ 28psi, stock head, stock valvetrain, stock intake and tb, with BC 272 cams, RNR 3" fmic, AEM EMS, E85, 2.0L, 10:1cr, 2.5" IC piping, no intake pipe on the turbo, AWD motorports T3 Manifold, Tial 44mm External WG, Tial 50mm bov.
Running 12.2/12.3 AFR and 16 degrees of timing all the way across the power band.
Wait til I turn the boost up to 35-40psi, throw some more timing at it, throw in my new cams, and am revving to 9k+... Will be completely different car. On the highway I bet I'd take almost any FP Red/FP black car to school.
Jul 21, 2010, 09:58 AM
#41
lol... I always love the FP Red/Black vs. 35R subjects. The FP turbos are good for cheap bolt on setups that want to make a bunch of low/mid range power and torque. Up top, they fail just like the stock turbo does.
- 35R is ball bearing and oil/water cooled so it's more reliable for starters.
- Holds boost throughout the power band.
- makes more on the top end.
- Is easily capable of 600whp-700whp given the setup, fuel, aggressiveness of tune, etc.
- Built 35R cars are worth more in general than stock frame turbo cars given the right supporting mods.
- Nothing beats the sound of a big DBB turbo spooling up, especially if you have an external wastegate.
The FP Black is the only turbo that would even relatively compare to a 35R but even still it'll fall off uptop where as the 35R will hold strong. It's also easier on your motor specifically because the 35R makes less torque than a red or a black usually.
I'm a die hard big turbo guy.. The stock frame turbo thing is cool if you're just wanting to build a torquey road race car but for highway/drag racing I'd definitely rather have a big turbo setup. And if you compare either of those to the new HTA3582 or 3586 or similar turbo.. then game over for the FP guys because both of those turbos consistently make at least 650-750whp.
- 35R is ball bearing and oil/water cooled so it's more reliable for starters.
- Holds boost throughout the power band.
- makes more on the top end.
- Is easily capable of 600whp-700whp given the setup, fuel, aggressiveness of tune, etc.
- Built 35R cars are worth more in general than stock frame turbo cars given the right supporting mods.
- Nothing beats the sound of a big DBB turbo spooling up, especially if you have an external wastegate.
The FP Black is the only turbo that would even relatively compare to a 35R but even still it'll fall off uptop where as the 35R will hold strong. It's also easier on your motor specifically because the 35R makes less torque than a red or a black usually.
I'm a die hard big turbo guy.. The stock frame turbo thing is cool if you're just wanting to build a torquey road race car but for highway/drag racing I'd definitely rather have a big turbo setup. And if you compare either of those to the new HTA3582 or 3586 or similar turbo.. then game over for the FP guys because both of those turbos consistently make at least 650-750whp.
Attachment 339196
Mikey
Last edited by BLKCarbonEVO; Jul 21, 2010 at 10:05 AM.
Jul 21, 2010, 10:03 AM
#44
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them 613 whp u are making are not the same as 35R 613. They are different horses . trust me on this mikey
Jul 21, 2010, 10:27 AM
#45
And before you try and argue like you always do, you are wrong so don't bother.
1) I have more tq
2) Faster Spool up
3) Faster Spool between gears
4) Beter response.
I'm really confused to where you get your logic, on EVERYTHING leon!!!