Help cant figure out problem!
Aug 16, 2010, 10:17 AM
#1
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Help cant figure out problem!
My build is done and everything is back in the car and such, I turned the key and it turns over, but doesn't fire up. I tried a few times and the same thing. I gave it some gas and it fired up. However, almost immediately it began to idle down and got really choppy and the vibrations were horrible till it shut off.
The only way I can start the car is to give it gas while I turn the key. Within 5-10 seconds it just idles down to like 500-600 rpms then dies.
I figured it might be my fuel pump, changed it out and no difference. I triple checked all vac lines and connections and those are good. All fluids are good too, dont know what else it could be.
The only way I can start the car is to give it gas while I turn the key. Within 5-10 seconds it just idles down to like 500-600 rpms then dies.
I figured it might be my fuel pump, changed it out and no difference. I triple checked all vac lines and connections and those are good. All fluids are good too, dont know what else it could be.
Aug 16, 2010, 10:26 AM
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Sounds like you could have your idle set too low. I had similar problems in my MR2. I don't know how you adjust the idle control (I think it may be on the ECU). The MR2 just has a screw you tighten or loosen to adjust idle rate. If that turns out to not be the case, check this out:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...le-issues.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...le-issues.html
Aug 16, 2010, 12:24 PM
#6
Vibrations sound like it could also be running on less than 4 cylinders. Did you check to make sure you have spark in all 4 cylinders?
You can do this alone pretty easily with the coil packs pulled out and a long handled screw driver. Stick it in one spark plug socket at a time and stand outside the car looking between the hood and the frame for spark (this gives you enough room to engage clutch with right foot and turn it over, you can also listen for the arcing...I just did this yesterday actually). In my case I somehow blew fuse 1 but if you are getting spark at all then that isn't it.
Check MAF plug
Check both coil electrical plugs
Check all 4 cylinders for spark
Unplug return line and plug in a long hose into a container and turn it over, look in container for a pressurized gas flow.
Tried all that yet?
You can do this alone pretty easily with the coil packs pulled out and a long handled screw driver. Stick it in one spark plug socket at a time and stand outside the car looking between the hood and the frame for spark (this gives you enough room to engage clutch with right foot and turn it over, you can also listen for the arcing...I just did this yesterday actually). In my case I somehow blew fuse 1 but if you are getting spark at all then that isn't it.
Check MAF plug
Check both coil electrical plugs
Check all 4 cylinders for spark
Unplug return line and plug in a long hose into a container and turn it over, look in container for a pressurized gas flow.
Tried all that yet?
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Aug 16, 2010, 12:46 PM
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Vibrations sound like it could also be running on less than 4 cylinders. Did you check to make sure you have spark in all 4 cylinders?
You can do this alone pretty easily with the coil packs pulled out and a long handled screw driver. Stick it in one spark plug socket at a time and stand outside the car looking between the hood and the frame for spark (this gives you enough room to engage clutch with right foot and turn it over, you can also listen for the arcing...I just did this yesterday actually). In my case I somehow blew fuse 1 but if you are getting spark at all then that isn't it.
Check MAF plug
Check both coil electrical plugs
Check all 4 cylinders for spark
Unplug return line and plug in a long hose into a container and turn it over, look in container for a pressurized gas flow.
Tried all that yet?
You can do this alone pretty easily with the coil packs pulled out and a long handled screw driver. Stick it in one spark plug socket at a time and stand outside the car looking between the hood and the frame for spark (this gives you enough room to engage clutch with right foot and turn it over, you can also listen for the arcing...I just did this yesterday actually). In my case I somehow blew fuse 1 but if you are getting spark at all then that isn't it.
Check MAF plug
Check both coil electrical plugs
Check all 4 cylinders for spark
Unplug return line and plug in a long hose into a container and turn it over, look in container for a pressurized gas flow.
Tried all that yet?
BTW how am I going to engage the clutch while standing outside the car lol...
Last edited by Earthen; Aug 16, 2010 at 01:01 PM.
Aug 16, 2010, 10:24 PM
#10
How is the car when you give it gas? Does it still break up? If not, maybe your idle is just set too low. Did you try adjusting it?
Also if you gave it gas and the car started up is a good indication that your injectors are running rich at start up. What does your wideband show when your car is idling that rough?
Also if you gave it gas and the car started up is a good indication that your injectors are running rich at start up. What does your wideband show when your car is idling that rough?
Aug 17, 2010, 09:32 AM
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How is the car when you give it gas? Does it still break up? If not, maybe your idle is just set too low. Did you try adjusting it?
Also if you gave it gas and the car started up is a good indication that your injectors are running rich at start up. What does your wideband show when your car is idling that rough?
Also if you gave it gas and the car started up is a good indication that your injectors are running rich at start up. What does your wideband show when your car is idling that rough?
Aug 17, 2010, 09:41 AM
#13
You just did a new engine, bigger turbo, better flowing head. What your settings were before for idle don't don't really matter 
It's probably not getting enough vacuum at idle and dieing out on you. What does your boost gauge read at idle. Is is a lot less vacuum then before? If you say all your AFR are correct, I would just adjust the BISS screw to get better vacuum flow in there.
It's probably not getting enough vacuum at idle and dieing out on you. What does your boost gauge read at idle. Is is a lot less vacuum then before? If you say all your AFR are correct, I would just adjust the BISS screw to get better vacuum flow in there.
Aug 17, 2010, 09:56 AM
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You just did a new engine, bigger turbo, better flowing head. What your settings were before for idle don't don't really matter
It's probably not getting enough vacuum at idle and dieing out on you. What does your boost gauge read at idle. Is is a lot less vacuum then before? If you say all your AFR are correct, I would just adjust the BISS screw to get better vacuum flow in there.
It's probably not getting enough vacuum at idle and dieing out on you. What does your boost gauge read at idle. Is is a lot less vacuum then before? If you say all your AFR are correct, I would just adjust the BISS screw to get better vacuum flow in there.
