MagicManRed

iTrader: (14)

bumpies for my goodness! :P

Earthen

iTrader: (6)

I agree with this point. I also like response, numbers are great, but have no standing since there is always someone with better. Response is too overlooked. For my car, I got nice numbers, but the response is not to my liking. I will be getting a re-tune with several adjustments that sacrifice power, but put the response where I want it.

MagicManRed

iTrader: (14)

Damn right!

What I've noticed about the tunes that are more responsive... is they require a whole mess more fuel in the lower portion of the map. I guess that's the price you pay. Any little bit you can do to help it by lightening unsprung parts will definitely help.

On another note. Been looking into a lot of intercoolers and temp readings.
I will be definitely getting a Garrett core 4" (3.8" true) intercooler from Buschur since he makes them with the end tanks and all.
I'm going to need to keep my air as cool as possible for road racing. Cooler air = happier engine. That for me, is reason enough. I guess the added benefit of more horsepower will allow me to further de-tune the timing so it will be in an even safer zone.

Earthen

iTrader: (6)

This is exactly what I am facing right now. The air in my engine bay gets too hot. Also my timing is very retarded and I know it can be much better with the right setup.

GrnEVO

iTrader: (7)

Damn this is a serious setup. I got about 6K to waste for mods but you're easily at aroun 12k by now. I guess you get what you pay for huh?

cssaddictm4

iTrader: (13)

Nice set of mods you have there. I would pick a better oil to compliment the build in my opinion. Good luck with your goals.

MagicManRed

iTrader: (14)

Updated

Luckily I only have 2000 miles of breaking in done to the motor with regular oil and no-boost driving. Once my tranny gets slapped on and the turbo... amsoil it is! till death!

Bassicfun

iTrader: (10)

I am assuming you don\'t mean that anymore? wow it looks like an airplane from the inside with gauges all over and obviously the tails are not stock to anyone mildly familiar with the car. I was just curious if that statement was prior to the gauge-a-pa-looza I went and saw.
PS.. not being nit picky, just curious if that is commonly viewed as looking bone stock. Thanks

MagicManRed

iTrader: (14)

I apologize. Didn't realize I was supposed to speak in the most literal of terms on these forums. I should have thought about re-phrasing what I said in case someone misinterpreted my generalized statement. You are correct.

Peoples perceptions of the meaning "bone stock" vary. Of course the true meaning would be OEM tires, original tail lights, and nothing modified in the interior. Some people bend that meaning by just using "stock" as "factory" which would mean my taillights are factory... just from another year. That would mean it's not "aftermarket"

As for the plethora of gauges.. unfortunately for me, I ran out of (and here is another word commonly used amongst the stock, factory, aftermarket word crowd)... "stealth" places to put them, so I had to bite the bullet and get a pillar pod. It was either that, or drastically modify something in the interior to fit another 2 gauges, which would have been "altering" which I'm not toooo fond a person of when it comes to interior. Sad thing is, I may swap it out for a 3 gauge pod... My tuners said it's a good idea to note/log EGT for road racing. Thankfully my gauges somewhat match the interior so they appear to "belong" (yet another related word on this topic) to the car. If I recall correctly, one of the Chevy cobalts actually comes with a pillar gauge pod from the factory. I thought that was pretty neat.

I hope this clears things up for you as to what my flexed perception is of bone stock.
And on the contrary to what you say about anyone 'familiar with the car' seeing it thinking its extremely modified... you are incorrect. To someone that doesn't know what an evo is... the car looks modified, and I will argue that to the grave, which is why a factory evo will still get double takes from the police. To a typical evo crowd... my car actually looks more "factory" than the majority. I think you catch my drift at this point (no pun intended).

Hope this clarifies your confusion. I still stand by my perceptions.

Thank you for your concern.

exhil

that is alot of stuff. holy crap!

Bassicfun

iTrader: (10)

Again was not looking to take you to task, just was curious as to your interpretation. If someone told me a tshirt was bone dry, I would expect it not to be damp or wet in the slightest.

Enjoy your evo and mods.

MagicManRed

iTrader: (14)

Hey man... in no way was I attempting to go to task...was just trying to put as much info out there on your curiosity you said you had about the bone stock thing. Just wanted to put all the cards on the table that I've seen and played, and share my interpretations with ya. I tend to favor over informing when questions are asked the first time around to avoid multiple back/fourth questions if you know what I mean haha. I've seen a lot of that happen on these forums, and you end up getting one whole page of 1-line replies! inefficient!

Anywho, thanx! Can't wait to get this damn thing back on the road already.

Bassicfun

iTrader: (10)

Glad it was not taken wrong. Enjoy going through that long build list.

4xforce

iTrader: (25)

Have you had the chance to log IAT's with the Garret core for comparison yet?

MagicManRed

iTrader: (14)

I've actually not been able to get anyone to do a test with. However, my shep 6 speed is bolted on and i've driven it for 600 miles. The FP Black BB turbo is spankin new and bolted on... triple disc is new and breaking in... motor has about another 400 miles to go before doing my full 2000 mile break in...

Another 400 miles... and I'm ready for a tune. I'm going ahead and buying the garrett core. I'm afraid it will be too much for for me to swap in and out for tests, but I'm definitely chucking the OBX and fabbing the Garrett core IC on under my cusco brace. I gotta get a lower IC pipe re-done.

Even though I've never had heat soak issues with the OBX (which is a rebadged Perrin essentially) after all I've read, I don't see a reason not to get the best core possible if you know what I mean. Also, I've never road raced with the OBX, so I don't want to find out the hard way that it heat soaks under those conditions haha.