mrboost05

iTrader: (25)

i really dont feel like making a full mod list so ill update later i have a semi updated build thread on here somewhere i bought a wrecked evo that only needed a rad support i am after 700whp and have spent $17k thus far this year.

built 2.0
built head ferrea valve train ported by port flow
exedy tripple
awd motorsports manifold
ams vsr
hta3586
fp5r cams
tial mvr 44
tial 50mm bov
stm oil cooler kit
buschur race intercooler
buschur full exhaust
shep tranny
full blown double pumper
ID 2000 injectors
aem ems

and a bunch of other stuff that i forgot it adds up fast and is not for everyone.

Boostfiend

iTrader: (3)

I don't know where to put you because you don't have a current hp number, lol.

Reviving this thread because I saw someone in the X section complaining about cost. Post up guys.

David Buschur

iTrader: (53)

Very interesting thread.

There should be another category. The "What it costs to develop the parts to make XXX amount of horsepower"

My RS has probably cost me $200,000+ in just parts that have been on it, off it, broken, tested etc. to get a combination that someone can now buy for $30,000 including labor to run the same times and have a good reliable combination with.

Good thread and good point.

TxEvo8

iTrader: (5)

^Interesting perspective Dave, I wonder how much you have spent total, developing parts for DSMs and Evos over the last 15 yrs.

BenJ

iTrader: (21)

Username: BenJ
Platform: 2006 Evo IX
Power level: 1000bhp+
US Manufacturers used
Engine: BR 2.0
BR Stg III Head
BR Fuel Rail
BR IM
BR Intake
Shearer HTA 3794 Turbokit
BR Double Pumper
ID 2000's
Kelford 280's
BR U/LICP
BR H.L.A
BR Oilpan
BR FMIC
Tial 50 BOV
Tial Wastegate
Custom 3.5" Burns stainless exhaust
BR 2 stage boost controller
Suspension:
Muellerized Ohlin DFV's
Front bump steer kit
upgraded rear swaybar (not sure exact specs)
Drivetrain:
QM Twin clutch
Shep transmission
Shep t-Case

Wheels:
Always something different

Total cost....north of $40k

metalsaber

iTrader: (9)

We appreciate your investments Dave.

Broham

iTrader: (10)

cost varies and not everybody buys new and pays listed price. If you're crafty and very patient you can slowly get parts accumulated without paying full price. Case and point, a walbro can be purchased for 75 shipped sometimes from users. You can get a sale on a part like gsc s2 cams for evo 9 for 499 shipped when they are listed for 540.

going to a built 2.4 that is discounted and selling your block will save tons of money as opposed to building your motor straight up.

Labor costs can be avoided by doing it all at once. if you do the tranny/cams/clutch/tcase/turbo/tbelt you avoid a massive amount of labor since it is all out at once as opposed to different costs.

There are tuners who do excellent email tunes that are not 600 dollars at all for a basic tuning, or if you get your tune along with the labor the tuner will cut a deal saving up to 100 dollars off since you gave them the labor business.

going with a stock frame opposed to going t3 kit saves money as well and most of the time people go big when an f black or red will be more than enough.

unnecessary parts costs. spending 250 on 1 defi gauge vs spending 150 for aem digital that doesnt need a control unit saves money.

I can go on and on but you get the point.

THat 25000 can be reduced to 16k with wise choices for those who are "low on funds"

for those that wish to go all retail, all full price, money is no object ill pay approach, more power to you, but others don't have that kind of money. So the advice is not to say "warning, this is expensive, but more be scientific about every dollar you spend and make sure it is worth it."

*used spoolin up cop supports over 600 whp yet its only 289 but you can pay 600 or more for cop kits when you dont' absolutely need it.

hope this helps thanks

David Buschur

iTrader: (53)

That's a scary thought. All the cars we've personally built door ourselves that have lead to development of parts, I'd say well in excess of a million dollars.

Wish I had saved SOME over the years......I did not.

Broham

iTrader: (10)

david,

You guys build great parts and we all appreciate the countless amount of testing, fabrication, new products, technical information, knowledge and experience you bring to the table. That stuff does cost money but i'm sure there are ways to save some money here and there for your business but that is a different topic and your private business.

I believe everybody can save some cash in these builds. It doesnt have to be "skimping " on quality or always buying used. Probably the best way to save money is to know what you want first.

if a new owner has a stock evo and wants to drop 20k on a 3586 full setup, he should take a ride in a 380 whp car first. that might be over kill for him if he's never been in it. saving him 18k lol!

take rides in a red/black/ 3582/ etc from local members if possible to get a feel. "experimenting" is not for poor folks lol. the labor will burn your wallet.
I believe in buying 1 part that is quality so it can last. A buchur 4" ic is enough for 90 percent of needs. no need going 3" then saying man this things needs a 4" and then selling at a loss etc. buying 880 injectors when you know you''ll do e85 etc.

buy quality once and do major labor jobs at once and know what you want as best as possible.

the evo is not making people broke, choices make people broke. so don't pull the trigger so fast. get real world experience, look for 10 percent to 20 percent deals on "new" or very slightly used parts and 1 year later your bank account will thank you.

Boostfiend

iTrader: (3)

Excellent input . To keep it brief though this thread will solve all the problems you listed. There will be people with cheaper builds than others, and it really is up to the user to do the research on what power-level they want. I simply created this thread to give people an idea that it is going to be THOUSANDS of dollars.

Kids (college kids and 16+ year olds) see these cars on the streets and think I have to have it. There are adults on this forum that go broke buying used + new parts. It's not a cheap hobby and while you may see that sweet 600whp evo with all the goodies roll buy, you don't see the blood sweat and tears that went into it. I remember riding in my friends WRX with 550whp all done up, and I didn't realize that car + mods it was a $68,000 car. I'm just trying to build awareness.

To Dave, I'll edit it to include a Vendors section so people realize your hard-work and you don't have to explain pricing to people if you'd like.

MR. EVO MR

iTrader: (9)

542whp fpblack, to many parts to list.
$20k-23k spent easy in past 2 years, its like $5-6k every pop.
Note: at least 35% of my parts were bought 2-3 times over, mistake was not buying the correct parts for my future power levels. I said at first 350whp was good, then more and more and more. should of bought bigger everything from day one.

Bramage_Dained

iTrader: (9)

354HP/373TQ with 93, E85 tune coming pending MIVEC fix.
Exterior mods=$0

Cosworth M2 cams $0(on the car when I bought it)
HKS UICP/SSQV $0(on the car when I bought it)
AMS FMIC $729
AMS LICP $260
AMS TBE w/ Test Pipe $900
4WS Mona Lisa $770
SpoolinUP COP $400?(I can't remember, and the page wont load.)
MAP O2 housing $170
BlaqOps double pumper(used, local) $350
Walbro w/install kit(above only came with 1 pump) $100
FIC 1450CC $400
Shep Stg 3 Tcase $1595
Shep trans $1495(Evo 8 3-4, rem isf)
QM twin $1534
Speed Density kit $160?
MBC $35
Valve cover $200?(Mine was cracked)
Mil.Spec TB seals $15
AEM UEGO $150 (EvoM)
Autometer boost gauge$65
Autometer dual column pod $20(local)
Tuning $450
Labor at DBPerformance ~$985 (I have the invoice, and that's roughly what it comes to)
Labor at MAPerformance ~$1500 (The invoice is in MN, I'm in Afghanistan)

~$12,244 there's a couple small things missing, and I'm guessing ballpark on the labor+tune MAP did.


Things that have been repaired in the last year:
Both front wheel bearings+right rear hub and axle, control arm, labor $2500(dealer)
Replacement wheel $120(EvoM)
Part+Labor for MIVEC $800(dealer)
60K service $1100? (Estimate, I don't feel like picking out the individual items from the invoice.)
Rotors and pads ~$450
Dunlop's $580
~$5480 for this stuff

~$17,724 total with everything

The hub, wheel bearings, wheel etc. were the hidden problems resulting from an accident last year.

Some things could have been had cheaper, and the addition of just a turbo would add a lot which would be a small additional cost in relation to what I've already spent. This will likely happen before summer is over.

The transmission had a bad 3rd synchro, and I had all the rest of it done while I was at it so I won't ever have to do it again.

A bit of the stuff is overdone for running the stock turbo, but I'm not sure where it will end and I don't want to buy things twice.

David Buschur

iTrader: (53)

Haha, don't edit it to reflect a vendor section, that's nuts. There's no reason for that. Obviously my investment in the Bad Bish, Black drag car, and countless other personal projects have paid off and paid us back. I was just making what was suppose to be a humorous point. It's getting way to serious. I have no regrets or complaints in the project cars we've built. I'd guess all of them brought in much more than they ever cost to build from the parts that were developed and the people who wanted to duplicate them.

I was just making a point how much it costs to come up with the combination of parts VS. the cost to buy the right parts the first time.

If you've added a vendor section, please remove it, it's pointless and will probably only start some type of argument.

My advise to anyone looking to build an EVO and it's been said already.

Do your research, ride in multiple fast cars with different combination's and then decide what you THINK you want. Regardless of what you THINK you want it is going to change some as a project car is never really done until you sell it.

We intentionally make our Staged upgrades (which have become a standard to follow) in a way that as you go from stage to stage you don't have to throw parts out or replace them. This helps with doing it right the first time.

Stages 1-4, for example, cost $4098 and can be installed in most people's home garages over a weekend. This with a good driver can put an EVO8-9 into the 11.4's, conservatively, at full weight etc. The parts bought in those Stages are what can still be used to go into the 8's in the 1/4 mile with the exception of upgrading to twin pumps instead of the single. Pretty well thought out.

EvoVIII :D

iTrader: (46)

I really like the idea of this, keep it organized and it will turn out great

evo 9 guy

iTrader: (12)

And this is why I am happy to forward paychecks over for BR parts. Thank you for all of your services and testing for the community David.