Compression & Leakdown Test Result Help
#1
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 251
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From: St. Louis, MO
Compression & Leakdown Test Result Help
Hello everyone,
Long story short, I bought an Evo in rough shape with 85,000 miles on it about 4 months ago and have been rebuilding it. Yesterday, I picked it up from a local shop after having a new clutch/flywheel and Bushwacker installed. Since I can support power now, I had them also do a compression and leakdown test since the motor is what is next on my list. I'm new to this testing, but I've done a lot of searching and my results seem off.
Current miles : 87,500
The car was warmed up prior to the test:
Cyl 1 - 130psi w/ 52% leakdown
Cyl 2 - 125psi w/ 63% leakdown
Cyl 3 - 130psi w/ 47% leakdown
Cyl 4 - 150psi w/ 35% leakdown
I'm currently ready to buy a built shortblock or head, and am looking for some advice on what you guys think I should do based on these results. Any input is much appreciated.
Stay safe out there,
-Jon
Long story short, I bought an Evo in rough shape with 85,000 miles on it about 4 months ago and have been rebuilding it. Yesterday, I picked it up from a local shop after having a new clutch/flywheel and Bushwacker installed. Since I can support power now, I had them also do a compression and leakdown test since the motor is what is next on my list. I'm new to this testing, but I've done a lot of searching and my results seem off.
Current miles : 87,500
The car was warmed up prior to the test:
Cyl 1 - 130psi w/ 52% leakdown
Cyl 2 - 125psi w/ 63% leakdown
Cyl 3 - 130psi w/ 47% leakdown
Cyl 4 - 150psi w/ 35% leakdown
I'm currently ready to buy a built shortblock or head, and am looking for some advice on what you guys think I should do based on these results. Any input is much appreciated.
Stay safe out there,
-Jon
#3
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From: Virginia Beach, Virginia
If somebody gave me those numbers I would do my own test to confirm, then do a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder and repeat the test to see if they come way up. That would tell me if the rings are going bad.
#5
also, what are healthy compression numbers for an EVO 8 and EVO 9?
#6
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 251
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From: St. Louis, MO
A couple people have guessed valve seats or head gasket which makes me lean more towards getting a built head.
#7
In my opinion those numbers are very low. I am not sure what compression evo suppouse to have but on 1G the service limit i beliave was 145psi or something like that and 160 when its good. 2G normal i beliave was like 175. So I would make a wild geuss here that those numbers are low and I would first check where its leaking. Rings? Head Geasket? Valves? Dont just get a rebuild, maybe you can still save this one. God Luck.
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#11
The leakdown numbers are crazy. 15-20% is deemed acceptable.
I would say you also have bad compression numbers,too low.
If you wanted to, have them do a leakdown with the valvecover off.
While looking at the gauge at over 20% leakdown, have them tap the valve.
If the number decreases, you have a valve seat problem,possibly a guide or even carbon buildup.
Good Luck.
I would say you also have bad compression numbers,too low.
If you wanted to, have them do a leakdown with the valvecover off.
While looking at the gauge at over 20% leakdown, have them tap the valve.
If the number decreases, you have a valve seat problem,possibly a guide or even carbon buildup.
Good Luck.
#12
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 251
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From: St. Louis, MO
In my opinion those numbers are very low. I am not sure what compression evo suppouse to have but on 1G the service limit i beliave was 145psi or something like that and 160 when its good. 2G normal i beliave was like 175. So I would make a wild geuss here that those numbers are low and I would first check where its leaking. Rings? Head Geasket? Valves? Dont just get a rebuild, maybe you can still save this one. God Luck.
I guess what I'm asking now, since we've agreed there is damage somewhere, is what would you guys do first? Head or block? Leaning towards BR stage 3 & MAP 2.4 L. Again, any input is appreciated.
#13
No, they weren't really sure. Just gave me ideas like the valve seats, head gasket, rings, etc.
Yeah everything just seems low and inconsistent. I don't mind buying a new head/block (in fact I kind of expected it).
I guess what I'm asking now, since we've agreed there is damage somewhere, is what would you guys do first? Head or block? Leaning towards BR stage 3 & MAP 2.4 L. Again, any input is appreciated.
Yeah everything just seems low and inconsistent. I don't mind buying a new head/block (in fact I kind of expected it).
I guess what I'm asking now, since we've agreed there is damage somewhere, is what would you guys do first? Head or block? Leaning towards BR stage 3 & MAP 2.4 L. Again, any input is appreciated.
#14
No, they weren't really sure. Just gave me ideas like the valve seats, head gasket, rings, etc.
Yeah everything just seems low and inconsistent. I don't mind buying a new head/block (in fact I kind of expected it).
I guess what I'm asking now, since we've agreed there is damage somewhere, is what would you guys do first? Head or block? Leaning towards BR stage 3 & MAP 2.4 L. Again, any input is appreciated.
Yeah everything just seems low and inconsistent. I don't mind buying a new head/block (in fact I kind of expected it).
I guess what I'm asking now, since we've agreed there is damage somewhere, is what would you guys do first? Head or block? Leaning towards BR stage 3 & MAP 2.4 L. Again, any input is appreciated.
any competent shop doing a leakdown test would try and diagnose where its leaking from... otherwise whats the point of doing it?
bring it to a competent shop who knows how to use the leakdown tester for what it was designed to do
#15
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Joined: Jul 2010
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From: St. Louis, MO
To me it makes more sense to do it all at once. Why go through labor twice when you can do it all at once? I like to piece my own kits together but that is all money dependent on you. I just came back from the PRI show and Winberg Crankshafts had a really nice crank but at 3k just for the crank. Then piece together a nice rod and piston set up but doing that along with the head is going to be a lot more down time/money than buying a short block/head from a shop that has them already built.
Any other opinions?